Ottobre Everyday Coat & a stash-buster weekend!

I just fell in love with this white jacket with the pop of yellow!  Can you blame me?  First of all, the fabric Ottobre used was Techno jersey (huh?)  I searched high and low and found a source but I've never come across the online store so I think I will just order a swatch and see.  In the mean time, since it was love, I used a pretty purple crystal ponte from my stash and this was all from my stash so here is my buster for the month!




I just love the RTW details of this jacket with the inseam pockets, princess seaming on the front and back, the hood with the drawstring and toggles and the length.

Ottobre describes this coat like this: Every woman needs a coat that is versatile enough to suit almost any situation! This beautiful base coat is sewn from techno jersey--a knit fabric....The unlined coat is quick to make.  It has zippered pockets in the princess seams on the front.  The coat has a tailored fit as there are princess seams also on the back.  The generous hood has a casing with adjustable elastic cord at its face edge.  The edges of the hood facing and seam allowance at the neckline and front edge are finished with contrast-color binding.

Hold on, big gust of wind!  With many of the non-American based pattern companies, the only directions are written and I believe they assume that women that purchase their patterns have sewing knowledge and experience, enough so that you can't just wing it unless you've sewn something similar.  Anyone else get that impression? Maybe it's just me since I am such a visual learner and sewer.

I wanted to skip the directions and just plow forward but decided against it.  I skimmed the instructions but not well enough and was perplexed as to how the they wanted you to insert the pockets.  And, since I am trying to turn over a new leaf and be less stubborn, I decided to reread and am glad I did!  It made perfect sense afterwards!

I really didn't deviate much other than to make round button holes instead of inserting grommets for the cording in the hood.  I also sewed the sleeves in flat before sewing up the side seams.  The directions tell you to slightly gather, but when I test drove the fit, no easing was necessary.

I am still trying to figure out my sizing for Ottobre and Burda and I made between a 40 and 42.  I think it is slightly too big but not so much to that I might just take it in under the arms and to the waistline just a touch.

I used this fun, colorful, and cherry cotton print for the contrast as I thought plain white might be a bit boring...it sure made finishing this jacket seem very high-end.

I love how long the coat is and that I only had to turn under the sleeves by 3/4" inch and topstitch.

Make sure you use a sturdy knit for this jacket otherwise the edges will get wonky with the zippers.  I choose not to use the interfacing at the front edge to stabilize.  My knit is pretty darn stable.  I did however use staytape at the shoulder seam and at the pocket edges.

My only beef with this pattern is that the contrast zipper peeks out between the pocket edges on the inside of the coat.  I am going to figure out how I can make that part look as pretty as the rest of the coat.  Also, check the size of the pockets.  They are just a tad on the small side.  They will easily house my keys, phone, lipstick, but that's about it!

Thanks for reading and what do you think of Burda/Ottobre patterns?  Personally, I have better luck with Ottobre and love the styles!

Sue

Stash buster Saturday McCall's top

Oh today was just perfect for re instituting my former stash buster for a Sat or Sun--which ever day it gets done!   It is uncomfortably cold with a wind chill of below zero and a blizzard going on, perfect for not wanting to set foot outdoors!

So the rules for a stash buster are that EVERYTHING must be from your stash--you can't go anywhere for anything at all, button, thread, zippers, nothing and you've had to have all materials on hand for at least several weeks--notice the huge leeway!  Any fabric that is more than a week old is considered 'stash' and any pattern purchased over a month ago is also 'stash'.



So, when I was deciding what to do, I have been just so excited to create McCall's 7018 and see if I liked it or not and I had the beautiful chili colored knit left over from this Vogue tunic I made and I had the buttons from my stash as well.  Winner, winner, chicken dinner!  Hence the birth of McCall's 7018.






What I love so much about this top is the shape and the fact it is so very on trend right now.  Everywhere I go I see tops of this shape and style and decided I want one--no make that I need one!

Here is a description from the back of the envelope: Misses' Tops and Tunic: Loose-fitting tops and tunic have front button closure, back yoke, sleeve, pocket and collar variations, and narrow hem.  A, D: Sleeve with buttoned tab and side slits.  A: Pockets with flaps.  B: Contrast collar and cuffs.  C: Left front pocket.  E: shaped hemline, wrong side shows.  F: Sleeve with buttoned tab.

I made view D, which is the one the model is wearing.  And, thank goodness I was set on that view as I had to squeeze that out of the fabric I had remaining with some very creative laying out thank you very much!  Since I loved the fabric so much I am glad it worked out and there weren't any scraps worth salvaging--I used all of it on this top and my Vogue tunic which you can see here.  I basically consider this top to be FREE!  Amirite?  I already had the pattern (which I purchased for a buck 99), left over fabric and buttons.  Free!

So this pattern is rated as easy and it is easy to put together.  In my on-going quest to figure out the FBA so it works for me, I added a slash to the pattern piece where I would need a dart, spread it 1/2" to try and accommodate my needs.  :)  I still see wrinkles on the front of the top but then again, the model has those too!  My only thought is that I'd need an actual dart?  For you fit experts, am I on the right track?

 My only other alteration was to make my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment.  I completed the remainder of the pattern as it was designed.

The directions are easy to follow and it was sort of logically written.  I like to put the collar or neckline on before sewing up the side seams and did that step out of order of the pattern.  And, I did manage to set in the sleeves by pinning them in and not putting in ease stitching.  I probably could have gotten by with putting them in flat but I thought I'd give it a whirl with setting them in and am happy with the result!

So this is an instant gratification project--oops and I almost forgot an important point!  The center front is folded over twice with no interfacing.  I was a little concerned that sans interfacing would stretch out the button holes so I took a precautionary measure and put stabilizer I use for embroidery between the garment and feed dogs.  I tore it away when finished and it worked like magic!  I will say the embroidery stabilizer I used is meant to be torn away.  Not sure if it would work with any other type.

So this is a comfortable top with so many styling options that I can't wait to make this pattern again!
Thanks for reading and I hope you too will take on a stash buster at least once a month!

Sue

Saturday Stash Buster in Progress

Simon will be one next week (I can't believe it) and he is getting a playhouse from Grandma.  I can be a procrastinator, I mean I've know his birthday is late August for an entire year and I start on his playhouse a week prior to the big day.  What's wrong with this?  Well, I start back full-time this week and have to work five full days in a row (UGH!).  It will take some getting used to, I love having a few weeks in the summer free but back to work is an adjustment, mostly since it cuts into my sewing time.

I purchased this pattern from Empty Bobbin as soon as I found out DD2 was expecting.  Isn't it cute?  I mean, it has so many possibilities and with all the versions on pinterest, I would say people are letting their creativity roll!  

I wonder if it is possible I only ordered the instructions as I can't find the pattern pieces anywhere.  Hmmm...with the clock ticking and my sewing room at an all time disaster level mess wise, I just went for it.  As you can see, I have two walls complete and the third has been started.  Of course I made some modifications, why not?  

For some reason, I can't get the pictures turned 90 degrees so turning your head to the side will be a must!

I embroidered a dog, kitten, and ball on one side and the third wall I am currently constructing is expected to have a monarch butterfly, bees buzzing above the flowers and maybe ...... it all depends on how much time it takes to get this wall done.  The front door shouldn't take too long, but I do want to have some fun with the 'mail'.  I have photo cloth that I will use to write him some letters on my computer, complete with some stamp clip art.  I am just giddy with excitement at creating a toy that he will hopefully enjoy for hours and hours!  I know my own four children were almost always making a fort with lots of blankets, pillows, and such.  Luckily I was pretty patient when it came to that sort of play.  

More to come, but let's hope I finish in time for the big party!

Thanks for reading!

Sue 

Another Sunday Stash buster: Style Arc Rosie Top

So this time around I found a stash buster of both a pattern and fabric that has been lurking for quite some time in my stashes.  The pattern was a freebie from Style Arc and the fabric was from a time when JoAnn and I were still on speaking terms.

 




Here's a description of the pattern: This is a great to for all occasions.  The slight cap sleeve is very flattering and the back inverted pleat gives this top a point of difference.

Recommended fabrics are Crepe, washed silk and cotton.  Any woven with some body and drape.

Honestly, I am not sure what size I ordered I've had this so long and if it is clearly marked somewhere, I can't find it.

So all you need is a button, some interfacing and about a yard and a half of fabric.

Construction was fairly easy as there are only 12 steps!  Not bad.  There aren't many illustrations but this is such an easy pattern you don't need many.  If you have some sewing experience, you'll do fine with this pattern.  If you are inexperienced, you may want to look at a similar pattern if you are a visual learner.

So, I didn't really make any adjustments to either the pattern or the fabric.  Have I mentioned how much I detest any sort of slippery fabric?  I was trying to enjoy sewing with it there for a while, but not sure I will ever fully master working with fabric that slips, slides, shimmies, and swaggers across my sewing machine.  I used extra pins, my walking foot and some prayers to get it to behave properly and while it's okay, it isn't anything I am particularly proud of. Know what I mean?  Ever make anything like that?

To be fair, I would like to try this is a cotton type fabric just to see how it turns out with crisp lines.  It does have some fun design lines.  I do like the peplum and the center back pleat.  Also the center back opening with the loop and button as another level of cuteness, although that is completely optional as the top will slip on and off over your head--provided you remove your glasses first!  Just ask me how I know.....

All in all, it's okay.  I'll hold final judgement until I make another in a fabric I like to sew with better than this slippery crap.  I also wonder if I should take it in somewhat below the armpits to the hemline.  It's a little roomier than I'd like.  I also think I will lengthen it an inch or two.

Thanks for reading.  Do you have a fabric you hate sewing with and avoid at all costs?  Tell me about it, I'd love to know I am not the only one!

Sue

Butterick 6057 from a stash bustin' Saturday

I think that once a week I am going to try and plan for a Saturday/Sunday stash buster where I use either a piece of fabric I've had for an embarrassing amount of time or a pattern that keeps getting pushed to the side. So this past Saturday I started with this piece of fabric that I've had for at least a year.

I purchased it from Marcy Tilton and it is a digital print in a very light weight cotton that has the weight and feel of a lawn.  I am not sure why I hung onto it for so long as I thought it was so pretty when I purchased it.  I promptly washed and ironed it and stored it in my stash closet.  I rediscovered it a few days ago and wondered what I had in mind when I decided I must have it.  Do you ever have purchases like that?  I am sure I had a plan in mind but for the life of me I couldn't remember what it was.

So, now onto the every growing pattern stash.  I choose Butterick 6057 simply for the sleeve detail and I thought I could use the border and graphic print to showcase the fabric.  I have to say while I think this top if fine, it is just fine in my book: nothing to get overly excited about and I am almost disappointed in how it turned out.  What do you think?  I mean, it's just okay in my book. Sort of meh.

I spent some time auditioning the pattern pieces onto the fabric to figure out how I wanted the final fabric placement to be.

I finally decided to cut it out on the crossgrain and use the lighter portion at the bottom and the dark black at the top.

This was a super simple pattern to cut out and sew.  The pattern description says it is fast and easy, and while it is easy, I don't think it was all that fast based on all the self-fabric bias cut bindings and the narrowing hemming.

before pressing into shape

The right half is pressed.  See how nicely it has molded to the shape of the fabric?  

Of course I serged the raw edges.  

After pressing and prior to edgestitching to keep it from rolling

Edge stitching to keep it from rolling.  I use my edgestitch foot specifically made for my Bernina.  Love this!  

I am a HUGE fan of self-fabric bias bindings.  I know they are more work, but look at how lovely the fabrics mold together.  Had I used purchased bias trim for this top, they would have been so much heavier and not as conforming to the curves and such as the weights were different and at times I do think the content of the fabrics fibers make a difference as well.  This is the perfect solution in my book!

As you can see, the final finished width of the bindings are a scant 3/8".

Looks like I need to wear a black bra or install lingerie guards!  

This top is described as loose fitting and it is, especially through the bust, waist, and hips.  It was also very loose fitting through the sleeve bands.  I made view D's sleeve bands with the front tie of B.  Sometimes the multi-view patterns let you have all sorts of mix and match decisions that give you a change to produce a one of a kind garment.

I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and wow could I have gone with more!  The loose fit though is the way the pattern has been designed to look so some of this bagginess you just have to put up with.  After I had everything sewn together, I knew the sleeve bands needed taken in so I took them off and decreased the top width of those by 1/2" on each side for a total of 1 inch.  I could have gone more but I wasn't sure I liked this top well enough to take it apart again.  Maybe it needs to hang out on my dress form Grace and I can stew about it for a while.  My only other changes were to add interfacing to the sleeve tabs.  I didn't want them to get all droopy looking.

So, not sure what I think of this top.  It's okay.  I know my unconventional fabric choice probably didn't help matters, but when you are working with your stash, that's what happens.

Thanks for reading!  I do appreciate your comments!

Sue