More spring separates

Hello all!  I hope this finds you healthy and safe!  We in the northern plains are experiencing  CoVID19 at a much slower rate than other parts of the country/world, but it is rearing it's ugly head,  

Enough!  No one wants to hear more about this, right?  

My original plans with these two lovely fabrics was to make a super girly dress with a dark slip underneath.  I began working from home recently so that didn't seem practical.  After looking through my patterns, I came up with this combination of patterns to match these two lovely fabrics.  

First, let's talk about the chiffon.  Chiffon used to be a fear fabric for me.  I avoided it at all costs.  However, there are so many lovely, lovely garments made from chiffon that I decided to master some techniques to use it in a way that it works and is no longer fearful.  Why didn't I think of this sooner?  

If you are new to working with chiffon, use a simple pattern.  The one I used is very simple to construct with a looser overall style and I've taken the time to fit it to me so I know it will work.  

See what I mean?  Very simple with clean and classic lines.  

What did I do to make the chiffon work?  I am a HUGE fan of Best Press.  I buy this stuff by the gallon.  I use it after I cut the fabric out on all the rounded edges such as the neckline and hems.  Every seam I press, I use Best Press.  

For the back yoke, I cut two layers, instead of one like the pattern suggests.  

This created a lined yoke which is not only sturdier, but also creates such a pretty finish on the inside.  

I cut  bias tape from the chiffon using a sharp rotary cutter and a ruler. And, I starched that as well.  The curved hemline also has a bias finish.  

Side seams have a french seam finish.  

For the cardigan, It's a super simple sew as well.  I used a lovely ITY knit, again from Fabric Mart.  The pattern I used, is FREE!  It's from Sinclair Patterns and you can find the link here: Sinclair Patterns Harper Cardigan

If you are wondering what it looks like, here's a photo: 

This comes in several lengths as well as sleeve variations.  I made the duster in a tall size.  Oxana Sinclair offers her patterns in petite, regular, and tall.  Since I am 5'7", I love using the tall sizing.  

You'll see more of these cardigans from me!  

 

 Thanks for reading and I hope this finds you and your loves ones safe and healthy! 

Sue 

Another Harper Cardigan by Sinclair Patterns

I have been on a roll of Indy patterns with good reason: the Indy designers take time to fit, test, and retest their patterns before publication.  I just love that by those designers!  

This is for the Harper Cardigan by Sinclair Patterns.  Did I mention this is a FREE pattern?  For those of you wary to purchase the Blackwood, here is your chance to get one that is equally as awesome and you just can't beat the price.  

Here's the pattern image: 

And, a link to the pattern: https://sinclairpatterns.com/product/harper-classic-knit-cardigan-and-duster-for-women-pdf-sewing-pattern/

What I love about Sinclair patterns is that the come in TALL sizes, or for ladies over 5'6".  There are also petite and regular sizing options.  

Gosh, I love this fabric!  How fun is this?  Dress it up or down.

This is the first long length I have made from this pattern. 

The back really lets you see how fun this fabric is!

It's mine!

I've made this cardigan numerous times and each time has been a treat.  You can use a variety of fabrics, make a variety of lengths such as duster, long, or classic and you can also make long, 3/4, or short sleeves.  Variety, is all included with this pattern.  

For this version, I used a camo fabric from Telio.  I think if you've read some of my posts (thank you, BTW) you'll know that I have a thing for Telio.  Quality and reasonable price.  Bam!  No wonder I love it so much!  

I made the longer version with long sleeves.  I had just enough fabric to complete this feat, but honestly, it was a close call!  What I keep forgetting is that the neckband or front band needs 2 cuts on the fold, not just one.  :)  

Since my fabric was a ribbed sweater knit, I did use some precautions such as SewkeysE 1/2" tape for almost all the raw edges: pockets, front band, and hemline.  I just love this stuff!  I did use a straight basting stitch on my machine before serging the edges.  It just makes me feel better about my finished garment.  

What more can you ask for?  A FREE pattern that's well drafted, fits a variety of sizes, and gives you a great result!

Thanks for reading!

Sue  

Harper Cardigan by Sinclair Patterns

I have another review for a Sinclair Patterns.  This is the Harper Cardigan.  I just love it.  

This comes in various sizes and lengths so you can create a bunch of these and they can all be slightly different.  

I made the classic length in a tall size.  I love these tall patterns!  

I want you to see a close-up of this gorgeous knit I purchased from Treadle Yard Goods in Saint Paul, Minnesota last summer. 

Photos do not do it justice!  It's got so much variation in the yarns and the feel of it is just so special.  For the pockets, I cut them on the cross grain and used the selvage as the top edge.  

Did I mention the texture?  

This pattern is very similar to the uber popular Blackwood Cardigan.  I wanted to try this one since I just got it printed and taped together.  Plus, at least for the time being, it's free.

The drafting is exceptional.  The fit is exactly what I wanted.

I had to shorten the sleeves just a bit as they were too long.  That rarely happens!

Due to my limited fabric and my ineptitude at measuring correctly, I had to cut the front bands in half width-wise.  I still love this and I had no intention of wearing this closed or putting a closure on it.

I am quite smitten with this and will make more!

Thanks for reading!

Sue

Sinclair Harper Classic Cardigan

Blackwood Cardigan Round 2

Unless you've been vacationing on Mars, you've seen all the love shown to the Blackwood Cardigan by Helen's Closet.  

All this love is for good reason.  This pattern is awesome!  It looks good in so many different fabrics and every version I see is so cute!  

In reorganizing my current sewing space to move to another, I am seriously wondering about my over-flowing stash and why I am hanging onto some fabrics for so long.  This floral knit mesh is one of those fabrics.  When I pulled it out again, it was like the creativity train hit me upside the head and the Blackwood Cardi came into site.  Bingo! 

This pattern can be totally sewn on the serger if you'd like.  It is drafted exceptionally well and versatile.  What else can I say about it?  

In case you are wondering about the length, I did add 4" to the bottom.  Since this is summer-weight, I also left off the cuffs and hemmed them.  I knew I'd be pushing them up.  If I pull them down, they are bracelet-length.  

With this ultra light weight fabric, I stabilized the shoulders and back neckline with SewkeysE tape 1/2" wide.  For the hemline I used 1" SewkeysE tape in clear so it's double sided. This stuff works like a dream!  

I did leave off the pockets since I knew I'd be wearing this over something that most likely had pockets.  

For the cami, I had a bit of this vibrant fabric left and since remnants aren't welcome in my sewing room any more, I decided to make a tank to wear under this cardi.  The pattern I chose is this one: 

As you can see, this is by Itch to Stitch.  This pattern is FREE!

I love testing different pattern companies FREE patterns and this one was a pleasure to sew.  I had fun color-blocking it with my remnants.  

Plus, it was a fun challenge to use the mesh as the binding at the neckline and arms.

Enough for now!  

Thanks for reading!

Sue 

The Abby Cardi by StyleArc

I think it's safe to say that I am a huge SA fan.  I made this cardi previously but sort of forgot about the pattern until Elizabeth hosted her Day to Night Dress challenge.  For my dress, I knew for evening I wanted to make a black cardi with some umph. 

I really love this dress.  It's casual but can also be dressy.  The fabric is a textured knit in this stunning color!  

Now you can see it with my Abby Cardi.  This is a great pattern!  

It goes together quickly and is designed beautifully!

I love how it ties!  You can also wear it loose and open, but I currently love wearing it tied at the waist.

A peek at the inside! 

My normal alterations include lengthening from the shoulder to the apex, lengthening the bust curve, lengthening the back from the shoulder to the waist.  SA patterns fit me well in the sleeve length and are exceptionally well drafted.

Here are a few details.  I used a decorative stitch on my machine to cover the outside seams and the hems.  I also always use SewKeysE hem tape to stabilize prior to stitching by hems.  At the neckline, I stabilized using SewKeysE stabilizer tape.  If you've never tried this stuff, you must!  Its awesome and makes sewing knits so successful! 

Thanks for reading!  In case you are wondering, this is a jet black knit that's cotton-lycra manufactured by Stof.  I really love this stuff!

Sue

Another Nina Cardigan!

I love this cardigan.  It is a bit different yet it fits really nicely in the torso.  The waterfall neck edge isn't too much or too little...it is just exaggerated enough... make sense?  

Do you have any patterns that you adore the shape of?  This is one of mine yet if your search my makes of it, this is only the second.  I need to get working on this!  I pull it out over and over again yet put it back...it isn't that it is out of sight, out of mind...it's on my mind!  I just need to commit to it more often!  

I made this from a beautiful sweater knit I purchased from Emma One Sock.  Even though it is wool, it is soft, cozy, and very comfortable.  Plus, it sewed like a dream...how is that for a glowing endorsement?  

This is so easy to put together.  It is well-drafted as every StyleArc pattern I've made is.  Honestly, if you had zero distractions you could put this together in less than two hours.  Especially if you overlocked the edges at the hemlines like the pattern suggests. 

 I decided to use SewEyekeys 1/2" knit staytape on the hemlines, turned the edges and used a stretch stitch on the hemlines.  I'd show you but they are almost impossible to see with a matching thread and a somewhat marbled fabric.  

I love this pattern, I love the fabric, and I love it how it turned out.  I will wear this with the coordinating dress fabric and with other garments in my closet.  

Thanks for reading!!!!

Sue 

Another Helene Cardigan

Yes, I am into repeating patterns lately.  I am working hard on reducing my out-of-control stash and the best way for me to do that is pull out fabrics that I had a plan for when I purchased them--sometimes based on a previous pattern I made and then dive in and sew them up.  That's my MO lately and darn if it isn't working!

So, here is one of my latest favs....the Helene cardi by Jalie.  Have you made this yet?  It is a fun, fast, and stylish make.  What more can you ask for?  Here is an image of the pattern:

Look how darling that is!  Those pockets!  The length!  Perfection! 

I've had this wool sweater knit in my stash for a while.  It is warm, stretchy, and feels soft on your skin.  I am really into this color lately.  It satisfies my need for a darker color in the winter but it is more exciting than black or gray.  I really should branch out a bit more!  :) 

Would you look at those pockets!  They are the perfect depth, they are at the right place, and they are just cute.  Can you tell I like the construction of these?  Just look at the inside and how clever this is! 

I made so few adjustments to this pattern: Sloping Shoulders is it.  When there is a seam at the lower back, or about the waistline, I really don't need a swayback adjustment.  I used Seweyekeys 1/2" fusible stay tape on the edges to hem everything.  That stuff is the cat's meow.  :) 

Isn't this just the perfect length?  

I so love everything about this pattern.  Can you tell?

So, I love this.  It is warm, it isn't black, and it fits great.  What are waiting for if you've never sewn a Jalie pattern?  Just do it!  

Thanks for reading!

Sue