Silk Orageuse the Prague blouse

I positively fell in love with this blouse the moment I laid eyes on it.  It's a new to me pattern company based out of France.  The company is called Orageuse and the pattern is the Prague Blouse.  This was fun to make! Instructions are available in either French or English.  They were detailed and easy to follow for this pattern.  

You can vary this pattern at bit at the neckline.  See the line drawings below.  

That front portion can be left open (does that describe this?) or you can have a contrast, or even use the same fabric as the blouse.  I choose to use a silk from Fabric Mart for this blouse.  This creation was for my February blog post.  I really, really love this pattern!  

Since this was a new-to-me company, I made a muslin and am glad I did.  I also flat pattern measured and knew it seemed be developed from a standard pattern block and that my typical alterations would work. 

I was so hesitant to try this neckline and when I was making my muslin, I seriously toyed with the the full-coverage neck.  But then I had a talk with myself and said, just go for it!  Your next version can have the full-coverage neck.  Okay, now just get it cut out so you don't change your mind...again.  Anyone sew like that?

That slit in the back is super cute as well.  For alterations here's what I did.  I learned this from Designer Joi when I took a classroom from her last summer.

Lengthened from the shoulder line to the apex.  One great thing about this pattern company, ORageuse, is that bust alteration lines are marked on the pattern.  Can I get a whoop, whoop?

Lengthened the bust curve area.  This is 2 or so inches below the dart.  It gives you ease for the girls to move freely.  

I typically have to alter across the upper back as I must have broadish shoulders.  I don't have to with this pattern company.  

Lastly, to accommodate the front lengthening I did, I also added to the back across the bust area by about an inch and a half.  This ensures that the front isn't longer than the back.  Make sense?  

I also widened the hips by about a total of an inch.  I just didn't want this too close-fitting in this area.    

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Here are some detail shots.  This is where the neckband connects to the bodice in front.  Sew precisely here!  

I love these buttons I found.  They were at JoAnns.  I think they add the right amount of glam.  Look how precise my topstitching is!  I get excited about things like that. :)

Here's the back neck slit.  Again, I did some very precise stitching here.  I also only used two instead of three buttons as they were a bit too large to fit three of them.  

I really love this blouse and plan on making another.  As I was putting this together, I thought a sleeveless version would be worth trying.  I should mention that in this photograph, you can barely see the piece of interfacing I used to reinforce the area at the back slit.  I didn't want anything to stress that seam.  

Thanks for reading!  Have you tried any european pattern companies?  If  you have, please share their name!  I'd love to check them out. :)

Sue  

A shirt to celebrate sewing!

I love sewing with cotton fabric and this super high quality quilt fabric was so inspiring!  

Can you see the sewing machines printed on this?  How cute are they? 

Here is the pattern I used: It is the Roxy by StyleArc.  

I love the slightly over-sized fit, the dropped shoulder seam, the placket, roll-up sleeves and tab, and the pockets!  

I am pretty proud of that placket!  It has been a while since I made one and this one turned out great!

For some reason, I think this top looks best with the sleeves rolled.  

With my muslin, I tried to make this a size smaller, but it just looked silly.  This isn't meant to be more fitted, it has to be oversized to look 'right', so make your normal pattern size.

That little lower split back is pretty cute as well!

The high-low hemline is another design feature that I love!

I love my new blouse!  I used black plastic snaps I applied with my KAM pliers.  

I love my new top!  

Thanks for reading!

Sue 

Sewing up some fun! Simplicity 8215

How FUN is this top from Simplicity? If you were me, you'd make this one too!

Image from Sewing Pattern Review.  Of course, it looks amazing on the model who is pretty, young, and thin.  

At first, I was going to make this pattern as it is, but I couldn't find any lining fabric for the lace bodice that worked.  

I really didn't mind the sleeves sheer and I just love how full and flowing they are!

So, since I used the main fabric to line the bodice, I was stumped as to how to finish the neckline until I thought--duh--just create a facing or use bias tape.  I made my own bias tape and it worked beautifully.  I even used it on the back neck slit.  

This fabric and lace were from the Casa collection from Joann's.  While I don't go to Joann's to purchase fabric, I did see these two matching-colored fabrics and decided it was worth making a muslin.  

If I create this again, I will make an FBA with a dart.  I did make my usual swayback adjustment and also a sloping shoulder adjustment.

I really love the little collar, bodice and sleeve details.  What are you sewing right now?

Sue 

In pursuit of the perfect fitted blouse

I love fitted blouses, especially when the fit is beyond superb.  Having said that, I really like this one but I have some additional fitting to do.  But this, is a very good start!

For this blouse, I used the StyleArc Jenny Shirt.  It has some very nice details!  I love the forward shoulder treatment, back yoke, placket sleeve vent, and the darts for fitting.

It also has an almost real placket for the sleeve, which I think is always a great touch.  Although, darn, I forgot to get a picture of that detail! I promise to for the next version.  

As sewists, we all know, or should know what we are getting into with StyleArc patterns when it comes to the directions.  Am I right?  

For these, I was completely disappointed and I am a HUGE fan of StyleArc!  

Here are my complaints--

How hard is it to proof read?  I know that I make errors in my blog, but I am not publishing it for anything than my own personal reflection on my sewing, not to sell a gosh-darn-thing.  In the first line of construction details, the word 'cur' is used instead of cut.  Not huge, but then again....

My other gripe is that the sleeve placket pattern doesn't match the diagram included with the instructions.  Now mind you, I've done this more than a few times so I know how to make a sleeve placket but if you had no idea, this illustration wouldn't help you in the least.  Not one tiny bit.  

Alterations?  Well, I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and that is it.  

Also, I knew this top was fitted, but I am not the slim, trim gal I was 15 years ago so I left out the back darts so I had a little breathing room.  Maybe if I hadn't eaten so many goodies for Christmas, I would have been able to put the darts in, but for now, they are out.  

I also am experimenting with the best way to complete a sloping shoulder adjustment and I read an article in the most recent Vogue Sewing that talked about this topic.  Their suggestion or technique is to scoop out the bottom of the armscye as much as you do the with the sloping shoulders.  Does that make any sense whatsoever?  

I'll take a photo next time.  I think the shoulders need a tad more work.  

I love my new top, especially with this RTW vest I've had for ever!

Thanks for reading and if you have a blouse pattern you love, would you share the pattern details with me?

Sue :)