Orange, white, and Butterick 6376

How many new sewing patterns have you picked up recently?  This is one of the new Butterick's that I thought was cute and unique.

Actually, I've purchased several blouse patterns and chose this one to complete first as we are still having some beautiful weather.  You might smirk as you read that statement but we've had plenty of snow in year's past on October 1st.  

I made my usual size 14 based on my high bust measurement of 36.  

 The big 4 patterns have quite a bit of ease and it is recommended by many pros to use your high bust measurement when choosing a size.

This top is my wearable muslin.  The orange stretch gingham is from Marcy Tilton and I couldn't resist it as orange is one of my favorite colors to wear.  

I made my usual FBA and I think it would have worked better had I made darts.  See, there are some drag lines.  Just to make this a bit different, I doubled up the buttons down the front.  

 

I love how the back fits.  I made my usual swayback adjustment along with a sloping shoulder adjustment.  

I am pretty happy with my new top!  

Thanks for reading

Sue 

Yet another jacket! StyleArc Cindy jacket with a colorful twist!

Yes, my passion for making jacket continues and I don't see it letting up anytime soon!  I stopped at Hancock's today and purchased two more jacket patterns!  Is something wrong with me?

Maybe, but I LOVE sewing jackets.  I feel like they take some finesse to put together, fit, and execute properly--that is achieve a great fit.  Only certain combinations of fabric and pattern design are typically possible so careful planning is also essential.



When I decided upon a new jacket to create, I usually have a fabric in mind (typically from my stash) and then I decide upon a pattern.  And, I might add, it isn't always a pattern I have on hand.  Many times, I have to go and purchase one, but I never mind adding to my enormous stash!

I have been eyeing this Cindy Jean Jacket by StyleArc for quite some time.  I had forgotten I had this stretch woven with this wild black and white design on it that I purchased from Marcy Tilton quite a while ago.  I am glad I saved it for the perfect pattern, but it sewed so beautifully, that it is a shame I waited so long!

I didn't have *quite* enough fabric to make this jacket as written and I simply didn't want to make it sleeveless or make anything else with it so I pulled out this orange linen, also from Marcy and decided to have some fun with contrasting elements.  

 If you haven't figured it out yet, orange is one of my favorite colors and I love incorporating it into designs.  Between the graphic stretch woven and the linen, I had enough fabric to execute my design.  I love it when a happy accident gives a great potential result!

It is safe to say that StyleArc directions are not written for a beginner or a non-adventurous sewer. The directions are simply a rough suggestion of steps to follow and unless you've had experience making the garment/pattern you've purchased in some form or another, then well, good luck!

There's verbage with very little visuals so if you are a visual learner like me, hang on to a wild ride for the first few trials with a StyleArc pattern.  With as many as I have sewn lately, I can handle the minimal instructions with no issues but it does take some thinking on my part!

I love the overall style and shape of this jacket.  There are a lot of design lines which are super cool and also give the jacket shaping so it isn't boxy nor does it give a hint of being boxy.  I used snaps instead of buttons to give it a more traditional jean-jacket look.

There is also a lot of topstitching to highlight the design lines, take advantage of those!

Another great StyleArc pattern!  I think I need one in classic denim blue or black.

Ann T-Top, another StyleArc Winner!

Oh, I have another favorite TNT!  This is the Ann T-top.  It is described as a t-shirt that hides a multitude of sins with side-rouching make it with long or short sleeves.



As you can tell, my sleeves are neither long nor short, I made this top with recycled fabric from a top I didn't like the style of but loved the fabric so I took the entire thing apart and these are the sleeves from the original and I left them as is.

This is a pattern that any beginner can tackle this with great success!  It is extremely well drafted and I made a straight size 12 with no alterations and I am very happy with the fit.

This pattern calls for negative ease but I honestly didn't want it that tight.  I am thinking I could have sized down if I wanted to but overall I like this.

As with any StyleArc pattern the instructions are minimal but if you have an idea of how to put together a T-shirt, you won't even have to read the instructions.

I did just to determine how to complete the rouching.   But after I tried the rouching with the elastic I decided to forgo that step and gather the fabric.  This worked out really well!

I really like to have my gathers nice and even and this way was a winner!

Another deviation from the instructions is when I added bands to the lower hem and the sleeves.  I had just a little bit of fabric left and since I love it so much I decided to use it for that application.

See how neat and tidy the neckline looks?

I love my top and I can see making many more of these!

Thanks for reading!

Sue

Saturday Stash Buster--My first Bomber jacket! McCall's 7100

I am so in love with so many of the McCall's patterns as of late!  So very RTW!!!  Cute, classy, need I go on?  This one caught my eye and I've been contemplating the perfect fabric and decided to just make it already!  I have so much in my stash so I looked and found three pieces that not only worked together but I think look cute and are in my favorite color palates--black and gray!  I need to broaden my horizons, I know!

From the back of the envelope: Semi-fitted, unlined jackets have collar, side front seams, bands, exposed front zipper, and sleeves with shoulder dart.  A, B: welts.  A, B, C: side front pockets.  D: Front pockets.  

I used the welt pockets from a, and the color contrasting from B to create my jacket.  

This pattern is designed for medium weight woven and stable knit fabrics.  I used a black linen for the raglan sleeves and a white, black, and gray print from Marcy Tilton for the main body.  The gray knit is from my stash as well.  I even had the correct length zipper for this!  See what hoarding can do for you?

I made a straight up medium but included at 1 inch FBA.  When I tissue fit this, I knew the apex needed lowered about an inch and I added width that you can see in my photo below.  I just used some left over scraps of pattern tissue paper and taped the pieces in which makes it much easier to fold the it all back up and fit into the envelope.

The one thing I don't do is to add to the waist line.  When I have made FBAs in that manner, I end up taking in the lower edge of the garment so I taper to nothing at that point.

I know some reviewers have commented on the crazy illustrations for this pattern, but if you read the directions, look at the photos and compare your garment, it all makes perfect sense.  Everything is shown on the illustrations--darts, seams, etc.  Don't over think it...

I love how this fits through the shoulder area and neckline.  This isn't too baggy in the body either like some jackets are that I've seen.  And, did I mention the welt pockets?  They are awesome!  That little piece of black from the sleeves gave the perfect little contrast there.  The pockets are just deep enough but if you have larger hands or are creating this as a warm jacket, you may want to make them just a tad bigger.  I made this to wear with a short-sleeved t-shirt or tank, so basically as an indoor layering piece.

Something that I have noticed about the new McCall's is that the finishes are really nice and this jacket is no exception!  I love how polished the insides look!

My only deviation, other than the FBA, was to make my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment.

This is such a great pattern!  I hope you'll give it a whirl!

Thanks for reading!
Sue

McCall's Fitted Tunic

I really wanted to make a more fitted tunic since so many of them are less than fitted but I just love everything single one of them!  So, back to McCall's 6750.



And--you're right!  It isn't even a tunic but that doesn't mean I can't make it one!

I was drawn to the style and fit of this top.  It has quite a few darts in the front and back making it so much more fitted than my fav TNT the Archer by Grainline.  I decided I should probably have a few TNT blouses so not all of them are boxy or looser-fitting.

This top has three options that revolve around the sleeve length as everything else looks exactly the same.  I wanted a long sleeve version since it is flipping cold outside right now and I need more long sleeves in my wardrobe.

I used a fabric from my stash that I think I purchased from Marcy Tilton that was labeled as a denim but is very lightweight, much more like a Chambray.  There is a white thread that runs through it that gives it a bit of definition.

This top is my wearable muslin.  I still think I have some more alterations to do to this top but it is fine as is and I will most likely wear it in public, but with the sleeves rolled at least once!

I made a size 14 and I do have to say I think this pattern runs a little large.  I also made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and felt like it should have been more like 3/4 to 1".  I also lengthened this top by 6 inches to make it tunic length and I like the fit-and-flare shape of the bust to waist and waist to hip ratio.  I did end up taking this in quite a bit at the upper back and even extended the pleat at the upper back and radiated it to meet the innermost dart. I do however love the fit of the shoulder seam and where it lies on me.  Just about perfect!  I also like the collar and how it is formed with the front facing but ends at the shoulder seam.

Directions are really great as this is a Palmer-Pletsch pattern and I followed all the directions for tissue fitting prior to cutting out.  No matter how good the tissue fits, it just isn't the same to me as a moldable fabric is.  Fabric shows the drape whereas I don't think you get the same from tissue. Maybe it is operator error and I need more practice tissue fitting?

I do like my finished blouse and will wear it.  I may end up tweaking the fit a bit more but I do believe this pattern deserves another remake, nut what do you think?  I promise, it isn't tight or pulling at the bust.  I think the static in my house is causing the fabric to stick to my bra!

Thanks so much for reading!
Sue

A new top!

McCall's 6796 is my new top.  Although, I must say, it isn't exactly new, I made it a while ago, didn't take any photos and hadn't worn it until last week!  What is up with that?  Argh!

Here is a photo from the McCall's pattern website.  

Here is the description from the back of the envelope: Close-fitting, pullover tops have collar variations and narrow hem. C and D: button trim.

Simple but also sort of accurate?  

 
 I made my typical size 14 with a swayback adjustment--and that was it!    

This is a fast, easy, and fun project especially with that cute collar!  I don't think it fits *that* close, maybe it is just my version? Everything went well together and fast!  The directions were just fine and although I don't think I read them verbatim, I had no issues whatsoever.  

This lovely fabric was from my stash and if I remember correctly, it was a purchase from Marcy Tilton.  It feels like a ponte and I really love the print.  It washes and drives beautifully as well.  What more could you want?  I do have buttons on the collar as a trim but they are hard to see in these photos.  I am still searching for a place indoors where there is decent lighting!  

I had to include my Christmas tree in the background.  While some have a beautifully matched tree, mine is anything but!  I have ornaments from my grandmother, precious ornaments the kids made as very young people and as adults as my two daughters, daughter in law, and girl fiend to my only unmarried son, have an exchange--which is super fun!  So, my tree is quite eclectic.  

Thanks for reading!
Sue 

The Bronte Top from Jennifer Lauren

Oh goodness!  My first Bronte top!  I sometimes feel like I am the last one to the party but this time I just feel like I am sort of fashionably late.  :)  I had a lot of fun putting together this great top with such clever details!

From Jennifer Lauren's site: Bronte is a 40's inspired knit top that you can make with long or short sleeves. What makes her stand out amongst other knit top patterns is her 40's inspired shoulder detail. The back pattern piece sweeps over the shoulder creating a 40s style shrug sleeve which you can then either leave plain or decorate with buttons or other notions of your choosing. I've always loved and been drawn to 40s patterns that feature the shrug style shoulder, so it only made sense to incorporate this beautiful detail into my favourite type of top.

You can use a contrast binding around the neckline or keep her simple by using the same fabric you're making up the body with.

It's adorable!  It uses little fabric and those shoulder details are awesome! 

The fabric I used was from my stash.  I sewed a straight 14, based on my measurements.  I love how it fits but notice that annoying little fold of fabric at the bust.  Hmm....any advice for me?  

I love the shaping of the pattern and the neck bands are awesome and go together easily and professionally.  The sleeves are an awesome length--I folded mine up two inches--twice with one inch each and used a stretch stitch.  For the lower hem, I turned 3/4" and hemmed using the same stitch.  

Start to finish was about one hour--seriously!  This is an instant gratification project with awesome results.  I love that I used stash fabric and that it matches my favorite gray jeans!  

Yes, I will be making more of these!  

Thanks for reading!

Sue