Another dressy dress from Sew Chic

This pattern and fabric have been in my stash for too long!  How long is too long?  For at least a year! I hate it when I have what could be a fab garment sitting in a pile somewhere and I simply just can't get to it.

The perfect opportunity came up when SPR announced the contest called 'New To Me Pattern Contest.'  I've never made up a pattern by Laura Nash at Sew Chic before and I must say that I am quite smitten! She has some nice vintage styles and the fit is fabulous!  I didn't have to make hardly any alterations to get this to fit how I wanted.

Here are some images of the dress from the Sew Chic site:  I love it both fabrics!  This dress is called the Beatrice  The pattern number is LN1310.

The fabric I used is a floral brocade with metallic threads running through it.  I wish I would remember what I paid for it, but I do remember it being a bargain.  I also have to admit I wasn't smitten with it when I purchased it (the fabric) and fully intended on this being my muslin.  I like it so much, that this is now my wearable muslin.

 
Basically this is a sheath dress with sleeves and kangaroo pockets.  There is piping at the waistline that is a nice accent.  The neckline is what drew me to the pattern in the first place.  It's classy, modest, unique.  The zipper is at the side seam and the pattern calls for a lapped zip but I used an invisible one.  There is a very functional dart at the elbow as well as front and back darts to let you get the shaping necessary for a good fit.  Just the bodice is lined.

This isn't a pattern for beginners with the fitting and the finishing details that must be completed in order to get a quality garment.  I made sure that I matched up the motifs running down the center front, back, and at the pockets.  How many RTW garments don't have that detail?

My brocade is a little heavier than perhaps the pattern called for, so my only real modification was to not only line the bodice, but then to cut facings in the main fabric and apply those to the neckline.  I couldn't get the lining to not slightly show on the garment right side, which I assume was due to the weight differences.  Since I created the facings, I ended up hand-stitching those in place along the inside where I attached them to the lining pieces all around the neckline.  Speaking of hand-stitching, I hand hemmed the sleeves and lower hem.  I love hand-stitching, it is cathartic and really makes a great looking garment!
  

Fitting this garment was actually easy!  Normally I make an FBA.  With this dress I didn't need one. I ended up having to take in the bust darts and lengthen them.  This never. ever. happens!  I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and instead of a sloping shoulder adjustment, I added 1/4" shoulder pads.  Everything else is sewn as is on the pattern.

I really love my dress and I will most likely wear it with dressier boots or shoes, but with all the snow we've had and the fact my soon-to-be-daughter-in-law stopping over, I decided to take the opportunity to have her snap some photos of me wearing it.  Just look at that neckline, isn't it beautiful?

                              

Thanks for reading.  The more I use Indy patterns, the more I love them!  Are you with me on this?

Sue :)  

Round 2, SPR's sewing bee using an embellished fabric!

I stressed about this round of SPR's sewing bee.  Embellishing garments for me is something I enjoy, but I have never felt like my skills would land me a winning place in a contest.  And honestly, my goal is to make it to the next round, not win!  I just like the challenges every week as I feel like it makes me step out of my comfort zone.  

Here is what I submitted to SPR's contest and the questions I had to answer: 

What type of fabric did you start with for your project? 
I started this top with two pieces of fabric, both knits. The coral/burnt orange was from Fancy Tiger Crafts, in Denver and the other is a ponte from Fabric Mart. Both were similar weight and coordinated well. Both have similar stretch lengthwise and on the cross-grain. 

What techniques did you use to modify your fabric?
I used reverse applique and also some free-motion quilting with variegated quilting thread. The 'reverse' of the applique is the coral on the gray and the gray on the coral. My inspiration was from a garment I viewed on Pinterest.



I am just gob-smacked by this top!  I knew I didn't want to recreate it exactly, but I love the styling and the sharp contrast of the fabrics chosen.  I also wanted to use fabrics from my stash as it is running over and seems to be multiplying like rabbits when I am not looking!  

For my top, I purchased a stencil from Wal-Mart, traced the outline of it, layered both pieces of fabric, sprayed 505 temporary adhesive to help with the stitching and using a quilting foot, I  lowered the feed-dogs so I could move more freely and with the design I drew.  I used variegated cotton thread to 'trace' the design and also add a little design element at the center of the larger flowers. After stitching, I used some very sharp scissors and carefully cut away the top layer of fabric, close to the stitching. I made a mirrored image of the stencil on the front and a different motif on the back. As I was cutting around the designs, I decided to make a slight modification with the large flower. Can you spot the difference? 

What pattern(s) did you use for your garment, or is your entry self-drafted or draped? 
I used a favorite pattern of mine, McCall's 6435 which is a close-fitting top with the contrasting yokes and one sleeve. It was just perfect for what I had envisioned! I made this top as is except for a swayback adjustment, which is typical for me.  I feel like this top doesn't have as much ease as other patterns and I highly recommend going up one size when stitching.  I ended up adding a neckband as that's how i roll with knit tops such as this!  Typically I cut my neckband about 3 inches smaller than the circumference of the top but I play with it a bit as the degree of stretch also matters in some cases.  My advice?  Baste your neckband, if it doesn't lay correctly--too large for the neckband, cut it down.  Does it cause the top to pucker?  It is too small.  I would rather cut several neckbands than to have one that is ill-fitting.  

How does your garment show off your fabric modifications? 
The modifications are shown in the stencil I used along with the contrasting fabric underneath that I carefully cut away but not through the variegated thread I used to outline the design. 

What particular features would you like to point out to the judges? 
I love how the two fabrics show together; they coordinate but play nicely off each other. I love the variegated thread I used to outline the stencil design and also please notice how carefully I cut so closely to the stitching! I love the fit of this top and that it is long-sleeved, perfect for rapidly approaching fall weather here in the northern plains of the US. 

Any other details that you want to share about your fabric modification or the garment you made from the fabric?

I have always wanted to try an 'Alabama Chanin' style garment and now I have finally dove off the edge of the pool so to speak! I really love this top and will wear it to death! 

Thanks for reading!
Sue