The Pearl top from StyleArc

The Pearl Knit top was a freebie in October and I had to order anyway so....


Isn't this just comfortable cute?  It looks like a sweatshirt you can't wait to pop on at the end of the day or hang out in for the weekend.  I found it to be a tad dressier than it is pictured above...we will see what you think!

Here is how it is described on StyleArc's site: The gorgeous draped side panel cleverly creates an interesting pocket detail.  The asymmetrical hemline adds a stylish effect to this on trend top.  Mix it up by using different textures or colours.

  I used a lovely knit I purchased from a local quilt shop which decided to sell off all their fabric and focus on software, machines, notions.  Anyway, I bought the entire dang bolt of this Michael Miller that has a bit of lycra in it.  

Can you see the construction process I messed up on?

That's right, the pocket should be on the other side.  You cut each piece individually and I had the fabric wrong-side up and therefore everything was reversed.  

I found this top to be much more asymmetrical  than shown in the line drawing.  I also found it longer than expected.  I am 5'7".  StyleArc patterns are usually the perfect length for me, both in sleeves and in the torso and this was no exception.  I love it when that happens!

As you can see, there really aren't many seams to this tunic.  There really aren't that many steps to this top either.  And for StyleArc, the directions are adequate even for them!  If you have some knowledge of putting together knits and have put together basic tees or a sweatshirt, you'll be able to figure this out.

Don't stress over the dropped pocket.  Just read the steps and make sure you have carefully clipped your notches, match up the corresponding letters and you'll be fine.   To reinforce that bit of stress on that part of the top, I reinforced it with a small piece of silk organza sewn to the seamline prior to attaching the dropped pocket piece.  I just felt better about putting this together if I reinforced the area. Maybe I am an over-anxious seamstress?

I made a straight up size 12 and the fit is spot on.  No FBA was needed for me.

I taped the shoulder seams with stay tape and it worked beautifully.  A few things I really appreciate about StyleArc is the drafting of the shoulders and necklines.  The neckband went in perfectly....just perfectly!  It lays nice on your neckline...can you tell I love the drafting of this?

Another winner from StyleArc!

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Another McCall's winner 7254

I love the shape of this jacket: check it out!


It looks cozy and I love that it isn't boxy but somewhat fitted.  This can be sleeveless, without the collar, color-blocked, or a shorter length.

   
I made view C, which is a bit shorter than the view shown above.  I wanted to make the longer length but I didn't have enough fabric.  I barely had enough to make this view and found out when I was almost finished that I didn't cut two back peplums.  I made it work, but dang!

This pattern is described as: Misses' cardigans: unlined cardigans are close-fitting.  A, and armholes, B, D: Narrow hem.  D: Purchased toggle closing.  B, C, D, E: Self-lined front (extends into collar variation) and back peplum.  A, C, E: Stitched hem on sleeves. 

I used a beautiful jacquard double knit I purchased from Fabric Mart.  I really loved working with it.  It has a fantastic weight and I used a very light-weight interfacing I purchased from Fashion Sewing Supply.  I thought about not using it, but decided to anyway and am glad I did.

How I fixed that little mishap with only one peplum was to hem it with my coverstitch and then attach it to the lush collar.  I then attached the facing side of the collar and at the sides where the peplum joins in, I turned in the side seams and topstitched those to the collar piece.  It worked great!  I was a bit concerned that the peplum area wouldn't lay nicely but it does, don't you think?

I love cozy cardigans like this.  They are perfect for layering.  Camis are perfect for fall/early winter and during the deep cold, a long sleeved tee makes it even warmer.

I made very few alterations to this pattern: mu usual 1/2" swayback adjustment
I lowered the bust apex by about an inch and made an FBA.
Easy, peasy!

I used my coverstitch for the hems on the sleeve and peplum.

This is a great pattern!  I'd love to make another one in a sleeveless version.

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Wonderful wool made more special with Cashmere!

The StyleArc Livia I made earlier this fall has been playing on my mind...I simply wasn't ready to file the pattern away.


I've had a beautiful wool/cashmere in my stash for a year.

I'd purchased it while at a conference in Billings, Montana.  It was on sale but it was still pricey but so soft, and I am a sucker for a muted plaid.

It was my destiny and I knew once the perfect pattern came along, I'd be ready and it would be hopefully fabulous!  What do you think of the result?

Obviously it has changed a bit from the pattern, but that is what makes sewing so much fun!  Here are my alterations/modifications:

1.  Half-inch swayback adjustment
2.  Half-inch sloping shoulder adjustment
3.  I added just one pocket and the band is a contrast, off-white wool/cashmere purchased at the same time as the plaid and I decided to attach it so I could fringe the edge
4.  Added nine shell buttons to the front
5.  Hong-Kong finish on the inside made even better with the addition of a decorative stitch

6.  Cut out each pattern piece after matching the plaid at the seamlines--I hope this makes sense!  In other words, I took a great deal of time to cut this baby out!

I thought about lining the jacket but with my age-bracket these days, additional layers of fabric are too much for me.  :)  Those of you in the 50-plus crowd know exactly what I mean!

I really love this jacket...can you tell?  I've worn it twice now and received many compliments!  I love it when that happens!  Look how windy it was today when we were taking pictures!

Thanks for reading!'
Sue

StyleArc Sally Jean Skirt--winner winner, chicken dinner!

Do you ever come across a pattern that you must try, purchase it, and then don't use it?  Welp, that was me.  Why?  Not sure....still kicking myself for waiting so long.

This pattern is rated as challenging by StyleArc and is a basic jean skirt with classic styling.  

If you've put together a jean skirt or a pair of jeans/pants with a real fly front, you'll find the directions really good.  

If you've never done that type of a garment before, then use some directions that have extended visual and written directions.

Just to give you an idea of how many flys I've done....it's more than 10, which isn't a huge amount, but I do feel confident putting them in.  

Sorry for the wrinkles...I wore it to work today.  Super comfortable.  Just the right amount of ease to be comfortable and not loose or sloppy looking.  

I made this as is....no alterations at all, however looking at the photos I think I will make my usual swayback adjustment of a 1/2".  

Just for a reference, I am 5'7" and the skirt is a great length.  I put in an inch and a half hem and it hits me a few inches above the knees.  

The rendition show the finished skirt a bit longer, but I like this length on me.  

I used a denim I purchased on Amazon and it is called Cone Denim.  I found it as a kit on the sewing blog, Closet Case Files.  I wanted to try the denim without a big commitment and this piece from Amazon was the perfect size and weight for this skirt.

The topstitching thread came from Wawak and is 'Levi gold'.  It worked beautifully.

I love my new skirt and can see this becoming a TNT.

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Sewing with Sweater Knits

I had to make some new sweater knits and with the vibrant colors and wonderfully soft fabrics available, it is no wonder I love both of these garments!
























Both fabrics are acrylic knits with lycra.  the green, purple, black, or one on the left and made into the cardi is from Gorgeous Fabrics and was probably one of the nicest fabrics I have EVER used!  It literally feels like cashmere on your skin!

The McCall's dress fabric wasn't too bad either!  It came from Hancock's and even though it too is super colorful and the moment I laid eyes on it, I knew exactly what I would make from it.  

Both are washable and dryable.  Yahoo!

So, back to the Nina....
From the StyleArc site: This style has interesting design lines to create a slimming silhouette with a waterfall front.  The cardi is simple to sew yet creates a designer look.  

Look at how adorable those design lines are!  I love how it is longer in front and more fitted in the back.  The neckline is super cozy and hugs your body.This was so simple to put together and so unbelievably wonderful to wear!  I was truly worried I had forgotten to do something major as I was constructing it but I reviewed the directions and realized I hadn't missed a thing and look at the results!

I finally mastered using the rolled hem and ending up with a professional result--I always felt it looked like the rolled hem was an afterthought and I rarely used it on anything that would show....

One thing I love is the waterfall front.  You could put a facing on it but it would end up so heavy that you'd have to tug it down in the back all the time.  And the neckline wouldn't be nearly as flowing as it is here.  It's perfect as is.

I also cover-stitched the sleeve hems and those worked beautifully as well.  All in all, it was a great sewing day for this garment!  All the machines behaved as they should!  No times outs for bad behavior were necessary.  

Next up: McCall's 7244.  Is this dress cute or what?  At first I thought it was an ordinary dress but then I read that it was partially lined.  It also has an invisible zipper but with the fabric I used, it wasn't necessary.

I worked very hard to get a pattern to run down the middle of the dress and intersect well at the v-front and of course at the center back.  I also lengthened the sleeves so they were full-length instead of 7/8/  They are cute as drafted but living in the northern plains, you need long sleeves to stay warm from about mid-October until March or April.

You'll notice how freaking low cut this is!  I lifted the neckline's 'V' by about 2 inches and now find it appropriate for work.  It does sort of hug your chest as drafted, so that works and I may not have to wear a cami.  This was also pretty darn short--I lengthened this by about 2 inches.  I'm 5'7" and totally needed the length.  If you are taller, check before you cut your fabric.  If you are shorter, you might be okay!

For alterations, I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and also made the darts a bit bigger for an FBA.  I am very pleased with the alterations and how the dress fits.

I made my usual size 14 and did end up taking it in a bit starting at the armsyces, bust, waistline and hips.  I'd have to make this again to see if it truly runs a little large.  I find McCall's size 14 tend to fit me perfectly if I make an FBA and swayback adjustment.

What makes this dress special is the lining.  I used tricot that I've had in my stash for a while and it worked like a charm.  There are even separate pattern pieces for the lining--always a bonus in my book!  The facing, is unique as well--it is made from the main garment fabric and also interfaced. Again, that worked beautifully.
Since my cover-stitch was behaving so well, I used that on the hems and it worked like a charm!

I really love both of my new sweater knits.  While I don't need a lot more dresses right now, I can see making this in a cute print for spring.  The Nina cardi I will make again this winter and I do love the elbow-length sleeves and plan to make another for spring!
Thanks for reading!
Sue