My Chambray Shirt!

So I finally found a fabric of high quality I felt was suitable to make a dark Chambray shirt that you see, well, everywhere!  They are so cute!  I had to have one, and of course, I had to make my own.  That is what us girls (and fellas) do when we want to create a garment and make it our own.


First the inspiration photo from a recent Eddie Bauer Catalog I received in the mail.  I like the more fitted silhouette and the contrasting top stitching.  I also really like the dark fabric, how cute!

So, I found a dark blue fabric in 100% cotton at a local quilt shop.  The quality is so unbelievable, that I feel like it is one of the nicer fabrics I have worked with lately.  I just love a beefy cotton that holds its shape, is pliable, and needle holes disappear if you take stitching out.  You know what I mean?

Next was to pick a pattern.  I thought about my recent success with the Grainline Archer which is so adorable, but after making three looser fitting tops, I really wanted one that was more fitted to match my inspiration top.  So, I was at JoAnns to purchase some notions and noticed that McCalls patterns were a mere 99 cents--yes, you read right, less than one dollar!  What's a girl to do but peek though the catalog and find a few patterns.    And, as you'd guess, I found 6124 which gave me the fitted shape I was looking for.
I choose view D with the long sleeves but the length of A-B.  Don't let the boring line-drawings fool you, this is a cute top!  I set off to get this top moving along.

Cutting out was simple and I was happy to find the sleeves for view D were two pieces.  Who makes a top with two piece sleeves?  Well, I did because that is what the pattern called for and I like that detail.  Besides, I had enough fabric, so why not?


I also used medium weight couture quality interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply and my buttons were also from that source.  I just love their interfacing and now I am totally in love with the buttons as well!

I cut a size 14 in the bust and made a slight FBA but modifying the princess seam by extending it a 1/4 inch bigger than called for.  I graded down to a 12 in the waist and hips.  My usual alteration is a 1/2" swayback adjustment and I did that by making a wedge in the pattern piece at the back waistline and grading to nothing at the waistline seam.  After putting the top on early on in the construction process, I realized I needed a bigger sway back adjustment so I raised the back neckline by another 1/4".  I still have some wrinkles at the back waistline, but I am wondering if I have it too fitted?  Any fit experts out there that can help me and give advice would be much appreciated!

So when I constructed the collar stand, I decided to pull out a recent Threads magazine and use the steps an article by Louise Cutting uses to construct the collar and stand without and hand sewing--yep, you read right, zip, nadda, none!  Wow, this is a technique I will use from now on!  I loved it and it really wasn't any more work than putting in a collar and stand with a method mentioned in a typical pattern.

Here is what I did:
1.  Prepare the collar stand by making all the markings needed such as termination points for the collar and the pivot line.

2.  Next, after making the markings, I used my french curve and drew a line connecting the dots that followed the shape of the collar stand.
3.  Sandwich the collar stand pieces between the blouse with the interfacing side on the right side of the top.  Pin in place matching the markings.

4.  Fold the blouse back away from the collar stand to keep it free from the collar stand

5.  Sew the seam and then trim to 1/4 inch.
6.  Press the seam line open and pull the collar stand up and away from the top making sure you pull the unsewn seams that attach the collar upwards

7.  Stitch the collar sections together, trim, press and topstitch the edges

8.  Stitch the collar to the stand to the blouse's right side.  Keep the inside collar stand piece free.
9. Fold the collar upwards causing the remaining unsewn collar stand to fall into the seamline, trim, and press the free collar stand inside matching up the seamlines.  I used steam a seam to get everything lined up nice and pretty!

10.  Edge stitch the collar stand and hot damn, you are done.  This is one of the nicer collar stands I've made lately without handstitching!!!  Try this method, it works!

So....other than that, stitching this top up was pretty uneventful.  I do have to say that the sleeve seam was a little difficult.  The top portion of the sleeve set in beautifully but it was really hard to get the lower portion to lay as pretty as the top did.  Not sure what the issue was, but I need to remember that for the next time I make this top.

Next time, I will try the top on before I put on the buttonholes.  I don't mind where they are now, but I think that tops look better when there is a button at the fullest part of the bust.

Sleeve length is great for me and I am 5'7".  If you are taller or smaller, you might want to check that before cutting and sewing this baby out.

All in all, I like my top!  Thanks for reading!
Sue

A Mother of the Bride dress!

Not, not for me, both my daughters are married but a friend of a friend asked if I would create a dress for her from an existing dress she loves.  Why not?  I can do this, right?  Insert what was I thinking face here!  I've never done anything like this before, but I thought that I could find a similar pattern and tweak it.  Well, that didn't happen so I made a pattern from her existing dress and then transferred it to the lovely fabric she chose.

I wish I would have taken a lot more pictures but I didn't so you'll just have to read about what I did!

To make the pattern, I found a very light weight fabric with a good deal of body that wouldn't stretch out and that I could see through to drape over the existing dress.  I laid the existing dress on my cutting table and pinned the fabric over the top, drawing notches and such for the collar seams, the button placement, waistline and such on the fabric with a fabric marking pen.  Next, I unpinned the fabric from the dress, added seam allowances to the muslin and cut.  I sewed the dress and had her try it on.  As I was noting alterations, I made marks with the fabric marker all over so I would remember what I needed to do and when I took it off her, I made even more marks!

Next came the scarier part and that was to transfer what I needed to alter to the main fabric.  She chose this lovely black and ivory stripe from Hancock and it draped beautifully so that is what I went with.  I used Fashion Sewing Supply Interfacing in black and the lovely buttons she chose as well to give it a bit of sparkle.

The original dress was very casual with a great deal of topstitching on the button bands, around the armholes, and collar and I didn't want that addition so I left off those details and instead used either hand stitching around the armhole facings to hold everything in place or a blind hem along the button bands and the hem to hold things securely.  One of the things I noticed right away from the original dress was that there weren't any darts to give the bust line shaping so I added those and to give the back a little shape, I added darts as well. She didn't want a fitted dress, so this is more of a semi-fitted one.

Now that I look at the pictures, I should have straightened her collar a bit more, trust me, there isn't that wrinkle there when it is properly sitting on her neck.

All in all, she is very happy with the dress, which makes me very happy too!

So, have you done anything like this before?  Taken an existing garment and made a pattern from it, and then a finished dress or whatever you cloned?  It truly wasn't as hard as I thought it would be!  Now that being said, this was a super simple style.  Something more tailored might have given me a lot more headaches!

I hope to have a few 'professional' pictures soon of her all glammed up and wearing the dress.

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Another Sunday Stash buster: Style Arc Rosie Top

So this time around I found a stash buster of both a pattern and fabric that has been lurking for quite some time in my stashes.  The pattern was a freebie from Style Arc and the fabric was from a time when JoAnn and I were still on speaking terms.

 




Here's a description of the pattern: This is a great to for all occasions.  The slight cap sleeve is very flattering and the back inverted pleat gives this top a point of difference.

Recommended fabrics are Crepe, washed silk and cotton.  Any woven with some body and drape.

Honestly, I am not sure what size I ordered I've had this so long and if it is clearly marked somewhere, I can't find it.

So all you need is a button, some interfacing and about a yard and a half of fabric.

Construction was fairly easy as there are only 12 steps!  Not bad.  There aren't many illustrations but this is such an easy pattern you don't need many.  If you have some sewing experience, you'll do fine with this pattern.  If you are inexperienced, you may want to look at a similar pattern if you are a visual learner.

So, I didn't really make any adjustments to either the pattern or the fabric.  Have I mentioned how much I detest any sort of slippery fabric?  I was trying to enjoy sewing with it there for a while, but not sure I will ever fully master working with fabric that slips, slides, shimmies, and swaggers across my sewing machine.  I used extra pins, my walking foot and some prayers to get it to behave properly and while it's okay, it isn't anything I am particularly proud of. Know what I mean?  Ever make anything like that?

To be fair, I would like to try this is a cotton type fabric just to see how it turns out with crisp lines.  It does have some fun design lines.  I do like the peplum and the center back pleat.  Also the center back opening with the loop and button as another level of cuteness, although that is completely optional as the top will slip on and off over your head--provided you remove your glasses first!  Just ask me how I know.....

All in all, it's okay.  I'll hold final judgement until I make another in a fabric I like to sew with better than this slippery crap.  I also wonder if I should take it in somewhat below the armpits to the hemline.  It's a little roomier than I'd like.  I also think I will lengthen it an inch or two.

Thanks for reading.  Do you have a fabric you hate sewing with and avoid at all costs?  Tell me about it, I'd love to know I am not the only one!

Sue

Silhouette Cardigan Pattern

From the Silhouette Patterns Site: 
This pattern is our best basic for anyone and everyone. This is the classic t-shirt, the classic cardigan, and the classic shell. Made only for knits. This pattern has a french dart in the front and fits beautifully on all figure types.

So, I've had this pattern for several years and just hadn't stitched it up yet, until recently.  What was I waiting for?  The cover photo is so cute!  I just didn't have the right fabric and honestly I'm not sure what I used was completely right for this either but while I don't love it, I do like it and plan on wearing it quite a bit.  

So, with Silhouette patterns, the sizing is unique.  Not only do you pick your cup size, but you also pick a favorite garment's fit you like and measure it to determine the size you need to sew.  This was a frightening and new concept to me, but I do like the fit.  I found a fav cardigan and measured it.  I ended up with a size 4 and a C cup.  The fabric was from my stash and is super stretchy.  The finishing edge is supposed to be a ribbon and buttons but I just couldn't finish it off that way, especially with this fabric iI used.  So, I purchased some Kona Cotton, cut bias strips, applied them to the top with my serger.  Next, I folded the edge to the right side and edge stitched.  

While I like the fit, the sleeves are a little long and so that's why I folded them up.  Although I rarely wear any sleeves full length so this is a good solution for me.  

My only alteration to the overall fit was to make my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment.

Will I make this again?  I won't count it out, but I will need to find the perfect fabric. Can I be completely honest?  In a moment of weakness I shelled out $15 for this pattern. Was it worth it?  I don't think so.  While it is certainly ok, it didn't wow me like some others have.  

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Colette Sorbetto top

From the Colette Site: 

"With its ultra simple construction (just two pattern pieces plus some bias tape, and no closures needed), elegant loose cut shaped with bust darts, and the box pleat detail down the front, Sorbetto is a pattern you can throw together in a huge range of fabrics for summer.

You could use a patterned bias tape, or just use a contrasting color. Or you could sew just about any embellishment you want down the center. This blouse is a true stash-buster and a great way to use some pretty buttons or trims."

This is a freakin FREE pattern from Colette.  Since I have never tried a Colette pattern before so I naturally had to try this one and I am so pleased.  This is a great pattern that doesn't take a knit.  It's perfect for those pieces of fabric you have that are too small to do anything with but you feel bad tossing.  So, the fabric I used was from my first Archer.  I used red bias tape trim on the front pleat but I am wondering if I should remove it?  Not sure.....what do you think?  

I used kona cotton for the trim around the neckline and armholes.  I cut 1 1/4" bias bands, pressed them in half lengthwise and sewed them to the wrong side of the top, flipped them to the  right side and edge stitched in place.  I am super happy with the result.  I also stitched on three shell buttons down the front.  

I plan on making making many more of these tops.  I have some many weird fabric stash pieces that this will be perfect for!  

If you haven't tried this pattern yet, what are you waiting for?  

2 days, 2 Archers, 2 times the love!

Yep, I had some time to sew and made not one but two Archers.  How much do I love this pattern?  Tons!  It is well drafted, goes together well, is easy to alter, easy to embellish, and is easy to show some creativity!  

I am not sure what I can add to my last review of this great pattern but I will try!  I used two new fabric stash additions.  The tangerine print is from Marcy Tilton.  This top cost a little more than I would typically spend on making a simple blouse such as this but I so love this fabric!  Sale price was $14 a yard.  It's one of my all time favorite colors and doesn't it just scream spring, summer, and fall?  I think so!  It also handled beautifully so it wasn't all that much of a splurge.  This time I made the view without the adorable peplum--like you couldn't tell that yourself!

 Top two is a chambray from Robert Kaufman I purchased from Fabrics.com.  It was less than four dollars a yard so the top cost less than $10 to make!  It was very nice to work with as well and pressed so beautifully!  Next time, I will have to order a much darker chambray.

Buttons were from Fabric Sewing Supply where I also purchased the interfacing I used.  In case you are wondering, I used the medium weight, couture fusible webbing.  I just love this stuff!  This is literally the best interfacing ever made!

I put trim along the collar stand and I simply used scrap pieces of bias tape that I embroidered on using a built in stitch on my Bernina.  This is such a fun process for me, looking at the fabric, picking out a trim color, picking an embroidery stitch and thread color as well.  I simply stitched right down the middle of the trim and then applied it to the center of the collar stand.  I love how it looks.  It doesn't make putting the collar any more difficult to put together at all.  

The other things I changed up from the pattern were to attach the collar and stand prior to setting in the sleeves.  I stitched up the super easy binding on the sleeve vent, sewed the sleeve seam, put on the cuff, and then sewed the blouses' side seam.  Setting in the sleeve was also super easy as it goes in without any issues.

My usual pattern alteration is to make a 1/2" swayback adjustment which I did this time too.

Other than those few things that I added or did differently, this top is a snap to put together.  I just love both versions!  I will be making more of these!

Thanks for reading!
Sue

August/September plans

So, one of my New Year's Resolutions (sewing) was to reduce my stash.  Didn't happen.  In fact, last week I received 14.5 yards of fabric from two locations: Marcy Tilton and Fabrics.com.  A week or so prior to that, I also ordered from Mood and EOS.  I feel like I am swimming in fabric right now!  So, what's a girl to do but go through her pattern stash and make some plans.
With that said, I often change my mind....that's my prerogative, right?  Sometimes I even get a pattern pinned down and am just about to make a cut and realize this could be a big mistake so I unpin and start over.  I really think I am going to drive myself to stab my dress-form with a big, sharp, pair of Gingers.  I don't think I'll feel bad about it at all, not in the slightest.

So I took some photos of my more recent fabric purchases and with some possible patterns.  If you have a better idea for a piece of fabric, please let me know!  I'd love to hear your comments.  Also, I must say that some of my pics aren't the best quality--I am still learning to use my new camera and all the settings it has!

So here are a few choices I made based on some patterns I have either recently used and decided I must have more or patterns I purchased and haven't touched yet.  Amiright in that we all have a stack of these?


First up are my pants fabrics.  The dark denim and the two fabrics on the right are from EOS.  I just love Emma One Sock!  Her fabrics are topnotch and sew up so beautifully!  The obviously heavier denim that is second from the left if from Mood.  It is a Theory denim and has a beautiful weight.  I am thinking I will use my TNT pant pattern from Vogue for these.  Why mess with a fit you love, right?

I had to have a chambray shirt and when I found this Robert Kaufman Chambray on Fabrics.com I knew the Archer was the perfect pattern for it!  I even started it today!  Can't wait for it to be stitched as this is such a classic fabric with an equally matched classic shirt pattern.  Yay!

Next up are three pretty fabrics.  The two book ends are from Marcy Tilton and the green fabric is from Fabrics.com.  I've had this sewing book from Colette forever and really like the cute little dress on the front.  Not sure which fabric I will make into this adorable dress but I think it would be darling in any of these........oh WAIT!!!  I cut the tangerine colored one today for another Archer!  See how fast I change my mind on these things?

Ok, so this beefy fleece from fabrics.com washed up so beautifully and I originally thought it might be a nice casual dress but it is so heavy it must be a jacket.  I really like this one from Jalie with the cute hood option.

So back to EOS and this lucious grey sweater knit and this Jalie Cocoon cardigan.  Isn't it just cute?  This pattern called for two way stretch, not four way so this knit will be the perfect choice.  Plus, the knit is fairly light weight which will be perfect for cooler fall days with a sleeveless top and a great layering piece with something heavier this winter.

I've had the Victory Ava dress cut out and ready for ever and with this pretty woven from Fabric Mart and a stash fabric, I think it will be cute!

This Rosie top was a free pattern when you ordered from Style Arc last winter.  I think the lines on this top are really cute and the reviews of it on SPR are pretty good.  I've had this fabric in my stash for a very long time and think the colors will work well for fall.  

Yep, another Lady Skater in a fabric that is left over from a Lekala top.  The print is rather big but I like all the purples and plum colors.  Plus this dress is a winner!

 This pretty knit is left over from a Lady Skater and the photo doesn't do it justice!  I am not sure I'll use this pattern, but it is one I'd love to try in a sleeveless version.

Ok, another sweater knit and two choices!  The left is a Jalie pattern that has dropped pockets and it a cardigan and the right is my first big 4 cardigan from McCalls.  This cardigan from McCall's resembles an uber popular cardi from McCalls that light up SPR with hugely favorable reviews!  I'd like to try this one as well since it has similar styling and is darn cute!

Last but not least is a vintage fabric from a local antique store.  I have purchased numerous fabrics from them and have been very pleased!  I found this Jalie pattern in my stash fro an easy fit, elastic waist pant.  I figure if I don't like the pants, they will make way more stylish pajamas than the current old gym shorts I currently wear!

This is a pretty ambitious list for late summer/early fall, especially since I return to work full-time next week!  I will do my best!  Any comments/suggestions are always appreciated!

Thanks for reading!
Sue