Jalie 3132 Hoodie top

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I am so in love with Jalie patterns that I am repeating some of them simply because that are just that awesome!  Here is round two of Jalie 3132 known as the regular or nursing top, with or without hood. 

Fabric Used:
Really nice gray/cocoa stripe I purchased from Marcy Tilton.  Everything about the fabric is amazing from cutting out to top stitching.  Love this fabric!

Directions:
Absolutely awesome, all you need are the visuals.  I made a few minor adjustments and I'll highlight those below. 

How did the final garment turn out?
I think it looks a lot like the photo on the pattern cover.  Of course, I couldn't add well enough alone so I added a simple, understated silkscreen print along on one side that you can see below.  

Alterations/modifications:
My usual 1/2" swayback adjustment. 
I added 1'4" clear elastic to the shoulder seams to stabilize them.
I lengthened the sleeves by about 3 or so inches.  I decided to add a little detail by putting a 'cuff' on the sleeve and running the stripe the opposite direction from the sleeve
The kangaroo pocket stripe is also running a different direction
Eliminated the drawstring on the hood.  They tend to get knotted up in the washer and honestly other than using a shoelace or making a narrow tube, I didn't think it would add all that much?

Likes/Dislikes:
Love the hood, it is just the right size. 
Love the waist and how it follows the curve of your body rather than leaving you with a boxy garment
Did I mention it is comfortable?
No dislikes at all!

Recommendation?
Oh yes, I plan on making this again.  It is just an awesome, easy to wear, comfortable top.  I love both versions I have made. 

Conclusion:
A winner!  Try it!

Thanks for reading...
Sue

Jalie 2919 Cardigan

I love this cardigan, I always have and now I finally own one!  Here is my review of Jalie 2919. 

Description:
Women's long-sleeved drapey cardigan (A) or vest (B) with shawl collar and figure-flattering pleated detailing from the shoulder seam to the waist.  

Pattern Sizing:
Jalie is awesome with 27 sizes all in one envelope.  Toddler to plus sizes.  

Fabric used:
I LOVE this fabric I purchased from Marcy Tilton.  It is an orangy-red with gray stripes.  It is the perfect mid-weight knit with great stretch and recovery.  I highly recommend this fabric!  I really want to try it in a mesh type fabric just to see the difference in how it fits and lays.  

Directions:
As usual with Jalie, the visual directions are all you need in order to create a great cardigan.  No head scratching moments.  The only thing to remember is that with Jalie patterns you use 1/4" seams.
I love how the front drape is attached.  It looks professional and the width of it is perfect.  It snugs up to your neck in the back, perfect for fall!

Likes/Dislikes:
Likes:
I love the style, the length of it, the drape and the pleats on the front.  
This cardigan also has some waist-line shaping instead of being long and boxy.  Definitely a plus for me.  
Dislikes:
The sleeves are exceptionally long.  I shortened them by 2.5 inches and feel they are perfect.  The models' sleeves are also really long so I wasn't too surprised I needed to shorten them.   

Modifications:
My usual 1/2" sway back adjustment.  
None really, although in hindsight, I should have stabilized the shoulder seam with clear elastic.  I should go back and do that before I forget or wear it ten times! 
I double stitched the hemlines and top stitched the front seam where the drape attaches to the front and neck.   

Recommendations:
I so love this pattern!  Ever since I saw another PR reviewer make it in a stripe, I knew I needed to do the same thing!  I so love it!  It would be great with leggings and the length is really awesome.  I am 5'7" and found it perfect, so if you are shorter, you may want to measure or adjust the length of the sleeves and hem.  

Conclusion:
Another winner from Jalie.  I just can't seem to get enough of Jalie lately.  Such wonder patterns that are exceptionally well drafted and come together beautifully.  Had I not been watching Grey's Anatomy and Scandal, I could have completed this in two or so hours from cutting out to clipping the last thread!  I can't wait to try the vest, it is super cute as well!  

Thanks so much for reading!
Sue 

Sew Liberated Schoolhouse Tunic

Pattern Description:  Here is a description from the back of the envelope: Stylish, flattering, and quick to sew, the Schoolhouse Tunic is a versatile addition to your wardrobe.  This pattern lets you make a tunic to wear as a dress of over jeans--or make a shirt.  The Schoolhouse Tunic features front and back pleats, 3/4-length sleeves with optional elastic gathering at the cuff, and an open bodice perfect for layering over your favorite camisole or tank.

Pattern Sizing: sizes 2 to 20 are included in one envelope.  I started with the 14-16 and ended up taking it in about 4 inches.  Keep that in mind if you decide to make this up. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Why yes, I think it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Directions are super easy.  I actually decided to read them since I am unfamiliar with this pattern company.  Any beginner could pick this up and if you follow the directions closely, you'll have a nice garment. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I really liked the styling.  It is super casual but yet fun.  DH said it was a little too hippy-dippy for him.  Honestly, I've never heard him say this before so I am a little stumped as to what he actually means and at the moment I can't press him too much as American Pickers is on. 
I disliked how big and floppy this top runs. 

Fabric Used:
I used this beautiful rayon blend I purchased a the American Quilt Society show in Des Moines last weekend.  The sales person was the guy that designed it.  I wish I would have kept the receipt as I really like it and it was a breeze to sew.  I have no idea how to contact him for future purchases.  :( 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I took in the front and made vertical pleats six inches long that ran parallel to the stitching that holds down the bodice facing.  It helped but I do think I could have taken the skirt in as well.
I ended up making the back darts bigger by one inch each and then making vertical darts three inches long that intersect at the waist seam.
Just for fun, I used variegated thread when topstitching.
There wasn't any interfacing and I added it to the facing pieces to give the bodice a little more shape.
I stay stitched the neck edge prior to attaching the facings.    

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
For me, I won't sew it again, but if one of my daughters wanted one, I'd create it for them.  It is a fun style, but let's face it, one is enough.  I do recommend this to others if you need an instant gratification project.  If you are a beginner, it is great as there are no zippers or button holes. 

Conclusion:
This was a fun to construct and easy to whip up top.  I made a promise to myself to break out of my shell and sew patterns from Indy companies rather than my usual Vogue that I love so much.  The only problem is that many of the Indies are spendy.  I forked out 15 bucks for this pattern and usually I can find the big 4 patterns for less than four dollars each.  Now I know why I tend to stick with what I know.  :)  

Jalie Women's City Coat

Hello!  I have to say, I LOVE this jacket.  It isn't really a coat as there is no way it is warm enough for winter (unless you live in Florida or Texas).  It is a perfect layering piece for fall and that is what I intended it for. 


Here is a description from the back of the pattern:

Three-quarter length coat with choice of standing collar or hood.  Button-front, flattering front and back princess seams and on-seam front pockets.  

There are 27 sizes all in one pattern!

Fabric Used:
An absolute wonderful stretch denim I purchased in St Paul, Minnesota @ Treadle Yard Goods.  I had no idea what my plan was for using it but the colors, the drape, the stretch and recovery were so very awesome I had to have it!  I covered my own buttons with scraps of the lime green circles of the denim fabric. 





Directions:
The directions were excellent.  I didn't have to read anything, I just looked at the pictures.  They are that good!  The order of construction was also logical and well thought out.  

Likes/Dislikes:
Love the pattern drafting.  It is just amazing.  It fits so well, has just the right amount of ease and all the notches lined up perfectly.  What else would you expect from Jalie?
Love how the collar is put together.  I feel like it looks very professional.  
Love the on-seam front pockets.  No girth added to the hips!

Dislikes: 
The sleeves are exceptionally long.  I am 5'7" and the sleeves were too long for me.  I thought they looked long when I cut them out and yes, yes they were.  
As the directions are written, there needs to be a way to stitch down the back facing to the jacket itself.  I wore this jacket all weekend and the facing needed adjusted when I put it on and took it off.  I think stitching it down and following the curve of the facing will take care of that.  
Speaking of facings, the on-seam pockets aren't attached to anything.  I incorporated them into the front button holes on one side and they are tacked under the buttons on the other side.  
I need to come up with a solution to the front facings.  They also need firmly attached to the front so they don't flop.  

Modifications:
Shortened the sleeves by almost 2 inches.  When you look at the model's picture, her sleeves look exceptionally long as well.  I shouldn't have been surprised I need to shorten them.  
That's it!  

Recommendations:
I so LOVE this pattern.  It was so fun and easy to put together!  It stitched up beautifully and there wasn't any fiddling with the collar, sleeves, or finish.  
Maybe a beginner could tackle this with okay results, but I believe you need a little sewing experience to execute this well.   

Conclusion:
Everything you expect from Jalie is present in this pattern.  It is awesome!  I can totally see it made in fleece, quilted fabric, stretch wool, to name a few choices.  While the pattern calls for fabric with 201% crosswise stretch, you could most likely get by without it.  

Thanks for reading!
Sue 

Butterick 5616 Jacket, round 2!

Round 2 of a classically styled jean-looking jacket. 
I made this previously in a printed denim and used a completely different fabric for this round.  Here is a description from the back of the envelope:

Very loose-fitting jackets A, B, C, D in three lengths have princess seams, front and back yokes, slightly forward shoulder, buttoned fronts and topstitch trim.  A, B, below waist, patch pockets with buttoned flaps, three-quarter length sleeves with buttoned cuffs.  A: Stand-up collar.  B: collar, topstitched band at lower edge.  C: Hip-length, collar, patch pockets and cap sleeves finished with bias tape.  D: hip length, collar, patch pockets with flaps and armholes finished with bias tape. 




I made view B this time.  Last time I made view A. 



Fabric: 
I used a cottony, linen-y type fabric I purchased from Marcy Tilton.  I can't decide if it is a deep chocolate brown, a deep gray, or a brownish-black.  I had a whale of a time finding thread to use for the buttonholes!  This fabric was a dream to sew and I just love the silvery-white roses strewn all over the fabric. 

 Likes/Dislikes:
Obviously I like this pattern since I made it up a second time.  The styling is so classic for views A & B.  I am sure I will hang onto it for future use. 
Likes: over all styling, the bottom band, collar, cuffs and patch pockets.  Although you can't see the back of it because of my hair, the collar rolls beautifully despite it not having a stand.
Boxyness of the jacket.  It is perfect for this application.
Easy peasy to put together.

Dislikes:
While I mentioned this as a like, it is also a dislike--if that is possible!  The boxyness of the jacket.  I made an alteration to give it a little less boxy fit.

Alterations/Modifications:
I took the side seams in one inch on each side of the waistline for a total of two inches.  It is still boxy, but not quite as much.  I knew what I was getting into when I cut this jacket out.  I only used one row of topstitching as I didn't want to distract from the beautiful fabric.  

Directions:
Directions are fine except for where the front makes up the button band.  The 'dot' really needs reinforced with stitching and then a clip to the dot before attaching the collar to the jacket.  It is a little fiddly and if you have a ravely fabric like mine, the dot you stitch to seems fragile.  I think this lack of reinforcement should have been examined by Butterick.
I attached the collar before I sewed up the side seams.  I think it is much easier to put in a collar when the garment is flat.
In all honesty, I really think you could sew the sleeves in flat and then sew up the side and sleeves.  They didn't need any easing at all.

Recommendations:
I do like this pattern quite a bit.  I think it runs large through the body, but I have to say that I really like how it fits me in the shoulders.  It seems boxy in the back above the waist despite a sway-back adjustment.  Make this up in a out of the ordinary or unexpected fabric like I did and enjoy the results!

Conclusion:
This is a great pattern with an ugly cover.  It is a classic and I am going to make a long sleeve version soon out of regular blue denim!

Thanks for reading!
Sue

  

Simplicity 1613 view A

Pattern Description:
Here's what the back of the envelope says: Misses' knit tops.  That's it!  Here's my version: Misses' close-fitting tops in two different styles and three sleeve lengths.  A, B, C has front cross-over detail and D & E have off-shoulder sleeves (That's how I describe it anyway!)
   

Pattern Sizing:
I purchased the envelope with sizes 12 to 20 in one package.  Since this pattern is pretty close fitting and the tops have a lot of shaping on the pattern pieces, I started with a size 16 figuring I could take it in much easier than letting it out.  Although I messed with the side seams to give it a little bit of a closer fit, I like it: not too loose, nor too tight.  To give you a comparison, with Vogue I typically sew a size 14 as there is a lot of ease.  I not quite a familiar with Simplicity but after seeing this adorable pattern, I will be checking this pattern company out more!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I believe it looks a lot like view A, which is the one I made.  I am so glad there is an actual photo on this pattern envelope! As the photos are so much easier to gauge the actual final fit.   
  
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Instructions are decent.  With the neckline on this top you really need to disengage your right brain, throwing all logic out the window and just follow the freakin' directions.  It will all make sense once the front of the top is constructed.    

   
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes:
Love, love, love the shaping of the top.  There aren't too many t-shirts with waist definition, this one is awesome.  I love the engineering of the front neckline.  I had a few head scratching moments, but once I just followed the visuals I go it.  You just don't expect a knit top to be able to do things like cross over the top band and such.  Pretty cool detail.   
The length of the top is great, not too short, not annoyingly long. 
Did I mention the details? 
Sleeve length is really great as well.  Not too long or short.
Dislikes:
I really can't think of anything I didn't like. 

Fabric Used:
I used this fun floral from Marcy Tilton.  It sewed beautifully! 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment.
I also extended the front facing to full length in the front and back.  With my light colored fabric, the white facing I used showed through.  Be aware, if you use a light colored fabric, you will most likely need to line the entire front and back.
I eliminated the ruching on the sleeves.  I didn't feel like the top needed it. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a fairly easy pattern.  If you have sewn with knits, you'll do fine with this pattern.  Just disengaged your brain and follow the illustrations and you will end up with a great top.   

Conclusion:
I love this top but found it to be too low cut for work low.  While the photo shows it being drastically low, I choose to ignore this and carried on.  I am wearing a simple black cami underneath and if I plan on wearing this to work, will have to remember to do a mirror check.  

Thanks for reading!



Sue

Jalie Top! 3132

Oh how I love Jalie Patterns!  So well drafted, so easy to sew, so stylish....I could go on and on and on! 
This one is no exception!
Here is my review for this top: This is a nursing tee and hoodie and no, I am not nursing, but I love the style.  It is also a regular pattern as well.  Both styles are available in two lengths (T-shirt and tunic) 

I made view B in the tunic length.  It has 3/4 length sleeves and a v-neck.  Very simple styling. 

Fabric used: a lovely tissue knit I purchased from Marcy Tilton.  It was a dream to work with!  I love the weight of it for fall.  It is however a tissue knit and will be wearing a cami underneath as I have on in the photo. 




How were the directions?
Absolutely great!  Even though Jalie's directions are sparse but I like to view them as concise and succinct.  Visuals were great as well. 

What did I like/dislike about the pattern?
Likes:
Shaping of the tee.  It is 'fitted' for a t-shirt with a nipped in waist.  Love, love, love that feature. 
Fit is just great, especially through the shoulder seams.  With some more fitted t patterns, the shoulder seams are pretty narrow but this one isn't.  I will use this shoulder line to measure up to other patterns I use. 
Love the lengths of the sleeves and body of the tunic.  This is perfect for someone taller like me and when you are wearing leggings you don't have to worry about tugging the thing down to keep things private. 
I love how the v-neckline goes together.  It was simply magic!  The directions have you stay-stitch the neckline between the notches, clip to the v in front.  When I attached the neckline I had the shirt facing skyward and stitched on top of the stay-stitching.  It gave me what I feel is the perfect v neck.  Very professional looking inside and out. 






Dislikes:
My only dislike is that the shoulders weren't stabilized in the directions.  I simply stitched clear elastic into the seam. 


Recommendations?
Oh yes, I highly recommend this top.  It is stylish, comfortable and has a variety of uses in different fabrics, lengths, with or without the hood and kangaroo pocket, etc.  I can see why Jalie is the master of knits.  Ignore the bad bra back, I really need to throw that one in the garbage.  That is what I get for not doing laundry soon enough and having to wear a bra that doesn't fit all that well.  :) 

Conclusion:
Love this pattern.  I plan on keeping it close at hand.  I plan to make my DD one since she is nursing and I am anxious to see how that goes together.