Butterick 5616 Jacket, round 2!

Round 2 of a classically styled jean-looking jacket. 
I made this previously in a printed denim and used a completely different fabric for this round.  Here is a description from the back of the envelope:

Very loose-fitting jackets A, B, C, D in three lengths have princess seams, front and back yokes, slightly forward shoulder, buttoned fronts and topstitch trim.  A, B, below waist, patch pockets with buttoned flaps, three-quarter length sleeves with buttoned cuffs.  A: Stand-up collar.  B: collar, topstitched band at lower edge.  C: Hip-length, collar, patch pockets and cap sleeves finished with bias tape.  D: hip length, collar, patch pockets with flaps and armholes finished with bias tape. 




I made view B this time.  Last time I made view A. 



Fabric: 
I used a cottony, linen-y type fabric I purchased from Marcy Tilton.  I can't decide if it is a deep chocolate brown, a deep gray, or a brownish-black.  I had a whale of a time finding thread to use for the buttonholes!  This fabric was a dream to sew and I just love the silvery-white roses strewn all over the fabric. 

 Likes/Dislikes:
Obviously I like this pattern since I made it up a second time.  The styling is so classic for views A & B.  I am sure I will hang onto it for future use. 
Likes: over all styling, the bottom band, collar, cuffs and patch pockets.  Although you can't see the back of it because of my hair, the collar rolls beautifully despite it not having a stand.
Boxyness of the jacket.  It is perfect for this application.
Easy peasy to put together.

Dislikes:
While I mentioned this as a like, it is also a dislike--if that is possible!  The boxyness of the jacket.  I made an alteration to give it a little less boxy fit.

Alterations/Modifications:
I took the side seams in one inch on each side of the waistline for a total of two inches.  It is still boxy, but not quite as much.  I knew what I was getting into when I cut this jacket out.  I only used one row of topstitching as I didn't want to distract from the beautiful fabric.  

Directions:
Directions are fine except for where the front makes up the button band.  The 'dot' really needs reinforced with stitching and then a clip to the dot before attaching the collar to the jacket.  It is a little fiddly and if you have a ravely fabric like mine, the dot you stitch to seems fragile.  I think this lack of reinforcement should have been examined by Butterick.
I attached the collar before I sewed up the side seams.  I think it is much easier to put in a collar when the garment is flat.
In all honesty, I really think you could sew the sleeves in flat and then sew up the side and sleeves.  They didn't need any easing at all.

Recommendations:
I do like this pattern quite a bit.  I think it runs large through the body, but I have to say that I really like how it fits me in the shoulders.  It seems boxy in the back above the waist despite a sway-back adjustment.  Make this up in a out of the ordinary or unexpected fabric like I did and enjoy the results!

Conclusion:
This is a great pattern with an ugly cover.  It is a classic and I am going to make a long sleeve version soon out of regular blue denim!

Thanks for reading!
Sue

  

Simplicity 1613 view A

Pattern Description:
Here's what the back of the envelope says: Misses' knit tops.  That's it!  Here's my version: Misses' close-fitting tops in two different styles and three sleeve lengths.  A, B, C has front cross-over detail and D & E have off-shoulder sleeves (That's how I describe it anyway!)
   

Pattern Sizing:
I purchased the envelope with sizes 12 to 20 in one package.  Since this pattern is pretty close fitting and the tops have a lot of shaping on the pattern pieces, I started with a size 16 figuring I could take it in much easier than letting it out.  Although I messed with the side seams to give it a little bit of a closer fit, I like it: not too loose, nor too tight.  To give you a comparison, with Vogue I typically sew a size 14 as there is a lot of ease.  I not quite a familiar with Simplicity but after seeing this adorable pattern, I will be checking this pattern company out more!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I believe it looks a lot like view A, which is the one I made.  I am so glad there is an actual photo on this pattern envelope! As the photos are so much easier to gauge the actual final fit.   
  
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Instructions are decent.  With the neckline on this top you really need to disengage your right brain, throwing all logic out the window and just follow the freakin' directions.  It will all make sense once the front of the top is constructed.    

   
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes:
Love, love, love the shaping of the top.  There aren't too many t-shirts with waist definition, this one is awesome.  I love the engineering of the front neckline.  I had a few head scratching moments, but once I just followed the visuals I go it.  You just don't expect a knit top to be able to do things like cross over the top band and such.  Pretty cool detail.   
The length of the top is great, not too short, not annoyingly long. 
Did I mention the details? 
Sleeve length is really great as well.  Not too long or short.
Dislikes:
I really can't think of anything I didn't like. 

Fabric Used:
I used this fun floral from Marcy Tilton.  It sewed beautifully! 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment.
I also extended the front facing to full length in the front and back.  With my light colored fabric, the white facing I used showed through.  Be aware, if you use a light colored fabric, you will most likely need to line the entire front and back.
I eliminated the ruching on the sleeves.  I didn't feel like the top needed it. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a fairly easy pattern.  If you have sewn with knits, you'll do fine with this pattern.  Just disengaged your brain and follow the illustrations and you will end up with a great top.   

Conclusion:
I love this top but found it to be too low cut for work low.  While the photo shows it being drastically low, I choose to ignore this and carried on.  I am wearing a simple black cami underneath and if I plan on wearing this to work, will have to remember to do a mirror check.  

Thanks for reading!



Sue

Jalie Top! 3132

Oh how I love Jalie Patterns!  So well drafted, so easy to sew, so stylish....I could go on and on and on! 
This one is no exception!
Here is my review for this top: This is a nursing tee and hoodie and no, I am not nursing, but I love the style.  It is also a regular pattern as well.  Both styles are available in two lengths (T-shirt and tunic) 

I made view B in the tunic length.  It has 3/4 length sleeves and a v-neck.  Very simple styling. 

Fabric used: a lovely tissue knit I purchased from Marcy Tilton.  It was a dream to work with!  I love the weight of it for fall.  It is however a tissue knit and will be wearing a cami underneath as I have on in the photo. 




How were the directions?
Absolutely great!  Even though Jalie's directions are sparse but I like to view them as concise and succinct.  Visuals were great as well. 

What did I like/dislike about the pattern?
Likes:
Shaping of the tee.  It is 'fitted' for a t-shirt with a nipped in waist.  Love, love, love that feature. 
Fit is just great, especially through the shoulder seams.  With some more fitted t patterns, the shoulder seams are pretty narrow but this one isn't.  I will use this shoulder line to measure up to other patterns I use. 
Love the lengths of the sleeves and body of the tunic.  This is perfect for someone taller like me and when you are wearing leggings you don't have to worry about tugging the thing down to keep things private. 
I love how the v-neckline goes together.  It was simply magic!  The directions have you stay-stitch the neckline between the notches, clip to the v in front.  When I attached the neckline I had the shirt facing skyward and stitched on top of the stay-stitching.  It gave me what I feel is the perfect v neck.  Very professional looking inside and out. 






Dislikes:
My only dislike is that the shoulders weren't stabilized in the directions.  I simply stitched clear elastic into the seam. 


Recommendations?
Oh yes, I highly recommend this top.  It is stylish, comfortable and has a variety of uses in different fabrics, lengths, with or without the hood and kangaroo pocket, etc.  I can see why Jalie is the master of knits.  Ignore the bad bra back, I really need to throw that one in the garbage.  That is what I get for not doing laundry soon enough and having to wear a bra that doesn't fit all that well.  :) 

Conclusion:
Love this pattern.  I plan on keeping it close at hand.  I plan to make my DD one since she is nursing and I am anxious to see how that goes together. 

Burda Scarf Tunic

I'd made this lovely tunic several weeks ago but then arrived this little one and even though I am just grandma (for the first time) he is consuming all my thoughts and sewing time right now. Which is more than okay with me!  I just finished the super cute grommeted draperies for his bedroom and am going to go help momma put them up today. 
Next, I really have to finish his quilt.  It has been a work in progress since March.  When you see the finished product, you'll know why!

So here is my review for the Burda Scarf Tunic.  
Pattern Description from Burda Sewing Magazine:
Of course you are the fairest of them all, especially when you are wearing this top.  You will be surprised how easy it is to sew.  An unusual touch, the collar ties in the back and draws attention to a beautiful nape.


Sizing: All sizes from 36 to 44 are included with this pattern.  I made a 40 and feel it fits like I wanted it to for a tunic.

Fabric used: I had this crepe de chine type fabric for a while.  I think I purchased it at JoAnns this past spring.  I really love the colors in it.  I had been reading quite a few reviews about using this silky fabric and liked a fellow PR's strategy of running through the wash several times on hot water to remove some of the shine and give it a different hand.

Did it look like the finished drawing? Yes, it does however you'll notice that in the side view the back keeps slipping down.  It is due to the weight of the tie in back.  If I make this again, I will wear it a while before hemming it and cut it so the front is longer than the back and I won't have to tug it down so the hemline is even. 

How were the directions?  Actually they were really good and complete with visuals.  This pattern was part of a sewing lesson for beginners.  There is a two-page spread devoted to this top!  There are only three pieces to this top and it goes together quickly. 

Modifications/Recommendations?
Just my usual 1/2" sway back adjustment.  I lengthened it about 2 inches so I felt comfortable wearing leggings and not worrying about anything showing that should stay under raps.  :) 

Conclusion:
A fun tunic and the back tie is just so girly and pretty!   

The baby has arrived!

Yes, my first grandchild was born today!  4 and 1/2 weeks early, but healthy and cute as a little button!  I had started making him a snowsuit about a week or so ago (yes, I know, it's only August) but winter has a way of sneaking up on people and I wanted him to be nice and snugly warm. 

I saw this pattern on-line when I was searching for cute infant boys clothing.  Try saying that three times fast!  When I saw this adorable pattern, I knew it was my destiny to make it for him! 




I mean look at this cute little thing, how adorable, especially with the 'scales' running up the backside!  It doesn't help that the little model is impossibly cute either. 

Here's my best attempt at a description: bib coveralls with snap front opening that folds out of the way for easy dressing.  Hood has toggle type closure with elastic enclosed in the casing.  The entire coveralls are lined with terry cloth and all the seams are covered. 
So, I found my fabric at Fabric.com.  It was tough to find the right weight twill for the shell and a terry cloth that coordinated with it.  Since I couldn't see both together in person, I used their design wall feature and am pretty happy with the results. 

Tracing off the pattern is pretty easy to do with the 'real' magazine paper to trace from.  I remembered this time to add seam allowances.  For these little coveralls, you must cut the lining fabric a tad smaller than the shell and use deeper seam allowances as you want the lining to cling to the interior rather than bag away. 

The dinosaur applique is adhered first with stitch witchery and then I used a decorative straight stitch around the outside to keep it snugly in place. 

I made the 6 month size and given my little guy was early, he's pretty tiny and these coveralls look huge compared to him!  Luckily I know how fast he will grow! 

After tracing and cutting out, I promptly lost the directions for this pattern!  I took the magazine on a business trip with me and I can't believe I left the magazine behind!  I had to wing it when it came to putting this together--which by the way was pretty darn challenging given the way the child is put into this thing.  It isn't just a placket front, it has a rounded bib sort of thing with a separate overlapping front piece.  What is so great about this is that you open the coveralls up, lay the baby down, stuff his little legs and arms in with the easy access point and snap him up!  See what I mean by the photo?


I remember having a snowsuit for my newborns that zipped down the middle to the crotch and then flowed down one leg.  Talk about miserable when it came to dressing baby!  This way seems so much easier to me. 

Here is the basic order I constructed this:
1.  Appliqued the dino
2.  Sewed the scales down the backside and the hood, then sewed the center back seams
3.  Constructed the eyelets in the hood for the toggle and elastic closure
4.  Basted the lining to the front bib piece
5.  Attached self-bias tape (from a red cotton from my stash) to the front bib piece
6.  Attached the front to back, realized I sewed the front bib incorrectly, unsewed and tried again!
7.  Constructed the lining
8.  Attached the hood and hood lining
9.  Slipstitched the hood lining--I wouldn't skip this step.  The terry cloth lining rolled like heck!  This tamed it quite a bit!
10. Attached the lining to the shell and realized I shouldn't have sewn the center back seam the entire way so I could have 'clean edges' and hems!
11. Unsewed portions of the center back seam
12. Hemmed the legs and arms
13. Turned everything right side out so it all made sense! 
14. Topstitched the raglan sleeves, around the hood and in the ditch on the bias taped bib
15. Attached the snaps
16. Strung the elastic cord and toggle-type cord
17. Done!

Although that doesn't seem like that many steps, I spent quite a bit of time figuring out what I needed to do and unsewing what I'd done! 

I do think my finished garment looks like the magazine.  I do have to say sometimes it is rather disappointing knowing you can't get everything to coordinate without a lot of legwork prior to starting.  I didn't think about my elastic cord and toggle matching the shell!  I had to put up with the offerings from Hancocks. 

Directions--I know that the directions in the magazine don't have visuals and if you are an inexperienced sewer, I am not sure you could make this without visuals.

Alterations/modifications:
None that I know of, given I lost the directions!  I do have more snaps than the magazine shows and I didn't have quite enough of the yellow snaps, so I used some red ones on the upper part of the bodice. 

Recommendations:
This was such a fun and unique pattern for the new little man in my life!  It will be a lot of fun to see him in this!
I really don't recommend this pattern unless you've had some experience sewing.  If you are confident in your abilities, you'll love it!

Conclusion:
I really enjoyed making this without directions.  I think I now know what it must be like to use a Marfy pattern!  Lots of fun, unique, and I think very cute!

Thanks so much for reading!
Sue :) 

Vogue 8747 Top

Pattern Description: This is a Vogue Basic Design Pattern for Misses' top.  The description from the back of the envelope is pretty sparse: Misses'/Misses' Petite Shirt: Fitted, A, B, C, D cup sizes.  What I would add is that it has sleeve length variations, collar band with collar option, princess seams, both front and back, and gathers at the bust. 

Suggested fabrics are: Lightweight broadcloth, Sateen, Lightweight Crepe, Shantung. 

This is a multi-sized pattern. I started with between a 14 and16 since it is fitted rather than semi-fitted or more loose-fitting. 

Fabric used:
A beautiful quality batik that is just luscious. I purchased it at a local quilt shop in Sioux Falls.

Did it look like the envelope when you were done sewing it?
Yes the styling is the same.  My fabric is pretty colorful but the shape is there. 

How were the directions?

Sorry about the wrinkles! 
I should have pressed before modeling! 

Excellent directions.  Easy to understand and follow.  I did however change the order of construction slightly as I like to attach the collar/neckline detail prior to sewing up the side seams.  I just find it much easier when the neckline is flat. 


Likes/Dislikes:
The cup sizing.  No need for FBA! 
Gathering details at the bust gives this a little oomph, rather than an ordinary princess seamed top. 
Sleeve variations
You can leave the collar off if you'd like and still have a stylish top.
Dislikes:
There was quite a bit of hand sewing for this with basting things in place.  I tried to cheat and use steam-a-seam on the neckline and it just didn't work quite as nice a hand basting.  I ultimately had to hand baste. 
This is a great pattern, it would be nice if there was a 'real' placket for the cuff rather than the continuous lap. 

 
Alterations/Modifications:
I made my usual 1/2" sway back adjustment on the center back piece.  On the side back seams, I put in a 1/4" swayback adjustment.  I am pretty pleased with how this turned out.  Typically I let the center back piece do all the work with adjusting.  I think the back lies nicer now.  
After trying this on multiple times during construction, I was afraid it would be too tight.  So, to compensate, I used 3/8" seam allowance on the front band.  It ended up making the band wider and therefore the 'gap' between the bands on the front about the bust narrower.  This alteration also made the bust area too big so I merely moved the band over on the front a bit to compensate for it being too large there.  I should have just taken the band apart and sewed the entire thing.  Oh well. 
I decided to cover my own buttons. 


Conclusion:
It is easy to see why this is a favorite pattern from 2012.  It goes together really well and is a little more than your average top. 
If you haven't made this up yet, what are you waiting for?  I am just sorry I waited so long!
Sorry about the close up of the gathers, but DH said that was a design feature he needed to capture.  :)  Enough said! 

Thanks for reading!
Sue

McCall's Skirt

Pattern Description:
This is a Palmer/Pletsch skirt pattern.  What drew me to this pattern is the welt pockets and the straight skirt styling, truly a classic in my book. 
Here is the description from the back of the envelope:
Misses' skirt and pants: Semi-fitted skirt and pant (slightly flared) have contour waistband, welt pockets and invisible back zipper. 
Suggested fabrics are: Poplin, Sateen, Crepe, Gabardine.  You also need a bit of lining for this skirt.

This is a multi-sized pattern.  I started with a 16 and not sure what I ended up with as I took it in and think I may need to take it in just a tad more, not sure yet if I will do that or not. 

Fabric used:
A beautiful quality quilting cotton that is just luscious.  I purchased it at Heirloom Creations in Sioux Falls. 

Did it look like the envelope when you were done sewing it?
Yes, pretty much!  I do however think the welt pocket placement is a little too far to the side seams, maybe...jury is still out on that! 

How were the directions?
You know, directions were pretty great until I got to the welt pocket.  It is so cumbersome and overly complicated.  I am sure there is a mistake in the directions.  I took the pocket apart three times, reread the directions three times, looked over the pictures over and over.  I finally just quit over thinking it and worked backwards from what it needed to look like and made it work.  I'd really like to know what others think of the welt pockets.  I love the finished result, but really, there is a much better way!

Likes/Dislikes:
Ok, having complained about the way the welt pockets are constructed, I do love the final result!  I am a curvy girl and I don't need any extra fabric at my side seams, so hence my love for the welts. 
Length of the skirt is great!  I hemmed it only about an inch.  It was perfect for me.  I am 5'7" so if you are a great deal taller, I'd highly recommend measuring before cutting out. 
The fit is pretty darn good.  One thing I like a lot about the Palmer/Pletsch patterns is the 1" seam allowances to help with fit.  While I didn't need the extra in the hip area, it was sure helpful in the waistline!
Dislikes:
Other than the welt pocket construction, I'd have to say that I wasn't thrilled with the shaped waistband.  Next time I am tempted to play with the layout of the waistband and may even try cutting it on the bias.  This one lies great in front but the back portion of the waistband where it attaches to the zipper isn't as smooth as I'd like and sorry, but you can't see a picture of that! 

Alterations/Modifications:
I added a lining to the skirt since I used a quilting cotton.  I like how skirts hang when they are lined.

Recommendations?
Yes, I do recommend this pattern.  I love the styling.  Since I am happy with the fit of the skirt, I would like to try the pants at some point.  The problem will be finding the perfect fabric. 

Conclusion:
A nice pattern.  If you try this, I really want to know your thoughts on the welt pockets.  I wonder if there is something I am missing when it came to the construction details.  I do however like how they turned out.  

Thanks for reading!
Sue