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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Vogue 8593 Dress

Here is a misses' dress: Fitted, tapered dresses A, B, C, mid-knee length, have pleated front neckline and darted back and zipper.  A: Sleeveless, finished with purchased bias tape.  B: below elbow length sleeves.  C: Full-length sleeves. 
This dress is recommended to be made from moderate stretch knits only.  You need a zipper and a little interfacing as the neckline has a facing.  I included the line drawings as you can see the cute little dart on the back of the sleeves in views B & C. 
V8593

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
This is a multi-sized pattern.  You can choose from AA (6 to 12) or EE (14 to 20).  I made a straight 16 and like the fit.  I did think it would fit a little snugger than it did, so I was relieved it wasn't any tighter. 

Line Art




I asked DH to take a picture of the neckline and guess what he focused on?  Enough said!


<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>  Yes, I think mine does look like the drawing. 

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
What can I say about these instructions?  They are so easy!  All the directions fit on less than 2 pages (front to back).  Illustrations are easy to follow and wording is excellent. 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
I really like the fit you can get from the back darts and shoulder darts.  The pleating on the neckline eliminates the need for any sort of fba or darting in the bust area.  If you are small chested, you may want to make a size smaller on top.  That is just my suggestion! 
There is no way you need a zipper with this dress...it is just not necessary--so why did I put on in?  Not sure!  I guess I did this because I had a wad of the invisible zippers and it had been a while since I put one in a knit dress!
At first I was disappointed that the neckline had facings but with the pleating you need one.  However, I do plan on trying to make this dress with a neckband.  I think it might work. 
There is no way I am going to set in sleeves on a knit so I sewed them in flat and then sewed up the side seams.
I topstitched the hemline and the sleeve hem because I thought it would look funny to hand hem.  Plus, I just didn't want to! 

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
I love this wonderful animal print I purchased from gorgeous fabrics.  It sewed up so well! 

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
My usual 1/2" sway back adjustment and that is it.  Really, that's it!

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
I think the style of this dress is a TNT.  I love the neckline and the fit.  Depending on the fabric you choose you can make it dressy or super casual.  With the zipper, I do think you may be able to use a woven.  It might be worth a try! 

<b>Conclusion: </b>
I plan on wearing this dress as I modeled it for Easter.  We can't seem to shake this winter-like weather in South Dakota, so tights are a must!  In fact, it has been lightly snowing all day.  :( 

Thanks for reading!  I love my new dress!
Sue


Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Vogue 8886

Wow, what an easy, cute and fun retro feel this pattern has! 
Here is it, my review for Vogue 8886.
<b>Pattern Description: </b>
Fitted, lined top or dress has collar and princess seam. Semi-fitted, tapered pants have contour waist. A, B and C: back zipper. Custom Fit for A, B, C, D cup sizes.
FABRICS: Crepe, Silk Tweed and Double Knit.

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>B5(8-10-12-14-16), F5(16-18-20-22-24)
I made a 14 to accomodate the girls.  :) 

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b> Yes, I think so.  I however made a few changes that I will highlight below. 

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Super easy!  I glanced at them and then put them away.  No issues whatsoever.  The notches all line up well, so it seems very well drafted. 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
I really like the 'mod' styling and the retro feel the collar has.  I think it is very fun!  The sizing seemed to me to be a little snugger than some patterns are (yes, I know that it is fitted, but this patterns seems to be a little snugger than others). 
No dislikes at all.  The length of the top is great, the 3/4 sleeves are awesome.  The lining fits nicely.  It is just fun! 

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
I found this cat print at Vogue fabrics.  It is a lightweight twill.  There is no stretch whatsoever, but that is okay.  It is just light enough to give this pattern the body it needs, especially in the collar.  I also used the only interfacing I will purchase from now on: Fashionsewingsupply.com.  Wonderful stuff, so much better than anything you purchase at a 'regular' fabric store. 

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
Here is where I had some fun with this! 
1.  I added the 3/4 sleeves from the dress to the top.
2.  1/2" swayback adjustment
3.   I attached the collar before I set in the sleeves and sewed the side seam. I thought it was easier to have a flatter surface to work with. The directions have you set the sleeves first and then attach it. I waited for the sleeves and lining until after I got the collar on.   
4.  Added an exposed zipper to the back instead of a regular or invisible zipper.  I haven't tried this before and thought it was a fun touch!
5.  Edge stitched the undercollar so it didn't roll to the right side
6.  Only lined the bodice and not the sleeves.  I try to minimize hot flashes in any way possible and a little less fabric in the sleeves hopefully will help!  I used my serger to finish off the fabric and lining, attaching them together at the armhole seam. 
7.  Topstitched the hem on the sleeves and lower hem.  I mean, the fabric is twill, so what the heck, right?
8.  Added a second row of topstitching to the lower hem to include the lining fabric.  I just didn't feel like hemming the lining and attaching it with a thread chain.  I could have, I just didn't want to.  :)
9.  I waited to add the lining until after I inserted the collar, so I slipstitched it to the seam of the exposed zipper.  This allowed me to turn under the hem of the lining and attach it to the hem of the top.  It worked really slick.  I don't mind a little hand sewing.  I find it somewhat relaxing.



10.  I tried to omit the three hook and eyes on the back collar, but felt they were needed in order to get the back of the collar to lay right.   

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
Yes, I plan on sewing this again with the cute little sleeves for later in the spring or summer.  I am thinking the lining is optional depending on your fabric choice.  I decided to try it out and I do like it.  However, with the super short sleeves and summer approaching (hopefully) a lining would increase my overall body temp, not something I am in favor of!
I really want to try the dress and pants as well! 

<b>Conclusion: </b I really love the collar on this top!  I highly recommend that you take your time pinning the collar to the neckline before rolling the seam-allowance and hand sewing it to the top (this is the final step of the collar before you move on to other parts of the construction).  It needs to lay just so--it is the roll of the collar that makes the look so to speak. 
Thanks for reading!
Sue  

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Round 2, Vogue 1315

Version 2 is the correct fabric for this dress! 
Yes, you have seen this dress made by me before!  I love this dress!  Just as a refresher, here is the pattern description from the envelope:  Loose-fitting, dress (semi-fitted through bust) has double-layer neckband with raw edge finish, blouson bodice, elastic, seamed waist, side front pockets, front pleats and stitched hems.

This dress doesn't take too much fabric, for a size 12 just 2 1/4 yards. Maybe that is due to the scandalous length it is!

This calls for moderate stretchy knits only such as lightweight jersey, matte jersey, silk jersey.
Version 1 in a ponte knit
My first version used a heavier ponte knit.  This time I used a poly-rayon Lycra knit from Fabric Mart.  What a difference in the drape the correct weight fabric makes! 

I believe my finished dress looks quite a bit like the pattern envelope.


So what did I like/dislike about the pattern? This is an easy yet fun pattern. The front pocket detail is just too cute and so very clever! I can't believe I am saying this but the raw edges on the neckline is just fun! My fabric however didn't roll and curl like the pattern photo, but I still like the look.   
No dislikes, except it is scandalously short!!!!



This pattern is rated as easy, and yes, it is easy. The instructions and diagrams are well done.

What did I change?  Typically I make a 1/2" sway back adjustment, but since this dress is blousy, I didn't bother.   I lengthened the skirt by about 6 inches.  This fabric was a border print on just one side, so you can see how I used it for the dress.    In my first version, I made three small pleats on the back waist edge that are about 1/4 inch wide and 2 inches long, tapering to nothing.   I didn't do that at all this time!  Make sure you use non-roll elastic, the waist line won't look right if the elastic is all twisted. 



 

Here you can see the cute pocket pleats! 

Saturday, March 2, 2013

Kwik Sew 3463

Why has this pattern had so few reviews????

This is a great pattern.  It is super fast, stylish, yet easy!  Why, why why are there so few reviews?  I don't get it!  I would show you the line drawings but for heaven sakes, it is a simple, well-fitting tunic and leggings pattern, just use your imagination! 

<b>Pattern Description: </b>
From the pattern envelope: Misses' tunics and leggings.  Tunic View A has full-length sleeves and round neckline with self-fabric neckband.  Tunic View B has short sleeves with cuffs and scoop neckline with self-fabric neckband.  Tunics shown with purchased belts.  Leggings, without side seams, have elastic waist.  View A are scrunched at the ankle.  View B are ankle length and View C are below-knee length. 

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
An awesome thing about Kwik Sew patterns is that all sizes are included in one envelope!  It has been a while since I cut and sewed a Kwik Sew pattern, and I had forgotten about the 1/4 " seam allowances!  I am so glad I read the pattern pieces so I knew to sew with that narrow of a seam!  I also realized how important it is to read the finished garment measurements prior to cutting, especially if it is a pattern you don't sew with much.  I made a size medium and I like how it fits: not too snug, but I also don't feel like I am swimming in it either. 

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b> Yes, I think it looks just like a blend of view B and A, exactly what I was going for! 

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
The awesome thing with Kwik Sew is the simplicity and speediness of the instructions. 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b> 
I love everything abut these tunics.  The fit, the length, the neckband width, the sleeve length, ...I could go on longer, but one of my favorite movies is on....
No dislikes at all! 

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
I used a poly, rayon, lycra knit from Marcy Tilton.  Love it!  Such a pleasure to sew with! 

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
Here is what I changed.  This is a short list!  I used the neckline on view B, but the long-sleeves of view A.  I made my usual 1/2" sway back adjustment and used the XL sleeve and tunic length. 

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
Oh yes, I will sew this again and again.  This is an excellent pattern!  I can't wait to try the leggings! 

<b>Conclusion: </b>
Why are there only three other reviews for this pattern?  I can't recommend it enough!  Wow, what have I been missing by passing this one up?  If you are a beginner, or want just a simple, well designed tunic, pick this up.  It is as simple as that.  :)   


Thanks for reading!





Sue :) 

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Vogue 1315 Rebecca Taylor Dress




Here is the pattern description that you can barely make out above: Loose-fitting, dress (semi-fitted through bust) has double-layer neckband with raw edge finish, blouson bodice, elastic, seamed waist, side front pockets, front bleats and stitched hems. 

This dress doesn't take too much fabric, for a size 12 just 2 1/4 yards.  Maybe that is due to the scandalous length it is!

This calls for moderate stretchy knits only such as lightweight jersey, matte jersey, silk jersey. 
You really do need a light weight knot for this, mine isn't as light as it needed to be.  :( 

I believe my finished dress looks quite a bit like the pattern envelope. 

I used a yummy ponte from Marcy Tilton.  It is such a pleasure to sew with a quality knit!  I do think it is heavier than the pattern intended, but it is a done deal now. 

So what did I like/dislike about the pattern?  This is an easy yet fun pattern.  The front pocket detail is just too cute and so very clever!  I can't believe I am saying this but the raw edges on the neckline is just fun!  My fabric however didn't roll and curl like the pattern photo, but I still like the look.  My fabric is flat black on the reverse, so I played that up by using the solid black as one of the necklines. 
No dislikes, except it is scandalously short!!!!







This pattern is rated as easy, and yes, it is easy.  The instructions and diagrams are well done. 

What did I change?  Well, I did my usual 1/2 sway back adjustment which isn't really visible with the blouson top.  I lengthened the skirt by 3.5 inches and wish I would have had more fabric to eek out a few more inches.  I plan on wearing this dress with tights and boots, so I think I will be okay. 
Since I used a solid black for the second neckline, I decided to play that up on the sleeve hems and also the length.  I simply cut strips, serged them to the hem with right sides together, turned the seam to the inside and then ran a topstitch on the outside.  I can't believe I am typing this, but in addition to leaving the neckline edges raw, I also left the sleeve and lower hem raw as well! 
I felt like the skirt was too baggy, but that may be due to my fabric choice.  So, I made the pleat longer and wider in front (1/2 inch on each side and also 2.5 inches longer) to take up some of the extra ease.  Next, I made three small pleats on the back waist edge that are about 1/4 inch wide and 2 inches long, tapering to nothing. 

I eeked out this dress with just under 2 yards of fabric and am pretty pleased with the result.  It is super comfortable and I like it.  DH thinks the pattern envelope resembles nothing that a 50 year old should be wearing so we had a brief discussion about pattern alterations....it was brief since he tuned me out after the first 50 or so words of the explanation.  :)

I highly recommend this pattern and may try it again in a lighter weight that will fit the fluid style more. 

Have fun, but measure the skirt length!

Sue

Sunday, February 24, 2013

McCall's 6525

Oh my, these are SO cute!  I found out a few weeks ago that I am going to be a grandma for the first time and I got busy!  The baby isn't due for about 6 months or so, but I have a stack of patterns to whip up for the little one!

These are smaller than you'd imagine, just right for cuddling.  I think the best description I can come up with on my own is that they are like a stuffed animal, without the stuffing.  Here's a description from the back of the envelope: Blankies: Five 9.5" W X 24" long animal blankies.  Alligator Blankie A., Bear, B., Dog, C., Cat, D., Lion E.  All views have contrast sections and belly.  So you can see the relative size compared to a child, I found this photo online. 






These blankies are designed for medium weight fleece.  You need some batting, and some contrasting cotton for the appliques. 

This pattern doesn't have a rating, but I would rate it as easy.  A beginner could pick this up and complete all the animals with no difficulty.  There are however quite a few pieces for a few of the animals such as the lion.  The gator has the fewest pieces.  I would estimate for me to cut out and create all five animals was about 8 hours.  Not bad, I am not the fastest sewer in the world.  If you are speedy, you could do this in much less time.  The gator only took a little over an hour while the lion was over 2. 

Instructions were very easy to follow with great illustrations. 

I made a few modifications based on fabric choices.  For the cat, I used minky.  Wow, it is so unbelievably soft!  I wish I would have made all the animals out of minky!  The others I used fleece.   
The alligator's teeth are made of jumbo white rickrack.  How clever, huh?  The alligator also needs rickrack for his back.  The pattern envelope calls for ribbon for the toe nails, but I used bias tape as I couldn't find ribbon I liked.  Plus, I hope these are well loved, and I would presume bias tape would last a little longer than ribbon.  You can hand embroider things like the eyes, lion's mouth if you'd like, but I either appliqued black fabric for the eyes and machine stitched the mouth so I didn't have to hand embroider.   These are baby safe as there are no buttons to swallow or anything loose. 
For the lion's mane, I used some of the left over minky.  It makes a nice contrast with the fleece's soft yellow color. 
I had a lot of fun searching through my stash for the perfect contrast fabric. 
I used 100% cotton batting for the insides.  You only line the body and head with the batting. 
Best of all is that these are completely machine washable!  Yahoo! 
I included a picture of the animals I created.  Can't wait to give them to my little grandchild!
Thanks for reading!
Sue

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

McCall's 6513

Here is my latest creation: McCall's 6513.  This is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern, or pattern that fits.  There are various reviews on Sewing Pattern Review that seem to be both positive and negative.  I loved it! 

Here is my review and experience with this pattern. 
Here is the picture from the envelope.  I will save my comments for later.  :) 
Back of the envelope says this: Misses' tops: Close-fitting, pullover tops.  A, B, C, D have gathered front and narrow hem.  B, C, sleeves and C, D, back collar.  Elasticized. 

Fabric recommendations are for Jersey, cotton knit, spun silk knit, matte jersey.

I chose to make view D, long sleeves, draped on the side.  I used a soft and sparkly knit from Gorgeous Fabrics.  This was a selection from my first purchase from that site and I am pleased! 

Palmer/Plestch give an extraordinary amount of directions for such a simple pattern.  As other reviewers have noted, it is rather silly to pin fit the tissue on your for fitting when the finished garment is made of a knit.  Hmmm....if you are really concerned about the fit, make a muslin and skip all that nonsense. 




Everything went together well, fast and easily.  all the notches match up and the pattern is well-drafted. 

I think the top looks super close fitting on both the live models pictured above.  I made my usual size or a 14 and expected it to fit too tight, but I think it is not as close fitting as this pattern would lead you to believe. 

Like other reviewers, I didn't set in the sleeves but sewed them flat and then stitched the sleeve and side seam in one fell swoop. 

I am 5'7" and love the length.  If you are shorter or taller, check the length of the sleeves and hemline. 

I really like the neckline drape.  It is comfortable and didn't seem to gap.  I hope that stays true as I move around a lot at work. 

I highly recommend this pattern!

Thanks for reading!
Sue