Vogue 1210 Sandra Betzina

Vogue 1210 Sandra Betzina dress is a new favorite of mine if you want something a little different.
 

Here is a description from the back of the envelope: Loose-fitting, pullover dresses A, B, below mid-calf at center front, have slightly cut-in armholes, self fabric or contrast 'V' neckband, sleeve inset and times, angled hemline. 

The only notion you need is stay tape. 

The line drawing shows the details more clearly.

This pattern is rated easy, and I agree!  A beginner could put this together with good results. 
There are only 16 steps to this pattern.  When I first opened the package, I couldn't figure out where the direction page was mostly because it was just one page (front and back) and that is it!  Typically with Vogue you get many pages with many steps! 

So my fabric choice was once again from the red tag clearance bin at Joanns.  I pre-washed and threw this colorful sweater knit in the dryer prior to cutting.  It washed beautifully and this dress cost less than $15!  For the inset, I had the denim looking knit in my stash.  I have no idea why I originally purchased it, but I do like it a lot. 

I made view A with the contrast on the V neck and the sleeve inset.  After reading several reviews on sewing pattern reviews, I decided against the tie.  It wraps under the girls around to the back.  I don't see any reason to emphasize mine as they are plenty big enough anyway so I just left the time off and plan on wearing a belt.  You can see in the model's photo that with the ties wrapping around to the back, it provides quite a bit of shaping to the back. 

I am rather tall (5'7") and I did lengthen the sleeves about 1 inch.  I am glad I did as I feel they are just the right length. 

I did use the stay tape as instructed.  I followed the instructions to a T for inserting the V-neckband and had to unsew twice.  I am still not completely satisfied with it, but it looks fine.  If you look in one of the photos, it is very slightly gaping.  It was really gaping the first two times I inserted the neckband and it is so much better, but I truly strive for perfection and didn't feel I made it to that sacred point. 

I plan on wearing this to work and feel the neckline is a tad low, it seems to stay put when you move in the dress but for extra insurance, I plan on wearing a cami underneath. 

One thing in the pattern directions that sort of bugs me is in step 7 where Sandra states that if the V on the front is not perfect, don't worry about it since it can be covered by the tie.  So I just have to wonder, did she have trouble as well? 

I cut a size D and think it fits pretty darn well.  I wouldn't want it any looser nor any snugger. 
The only pattern modifications I made was to top stitch along the sleeve insert on both sides.  I also added a decorative stitch to the hemline on the sleeves and lower hem. 

As usual, I made a 1/2 inch sway-back adjustment using a wedge at the waistline and tapering to nothing at the side seams. 

Will I make this again?  Maybe.  It is pretty distinct but wouldn't it be cute with short sleeves in a summery print for warm weather? 

Conclusion: make sure your fabric has some drape.  It won't look or lay right if it is stiff at all.  Test the neckline to see if you are okay with the depth.  I knew it would be low, but knew I had just the right color cami to wear underneath.  Sandra's patterns do run a little large, especially in the waist and hip area, so check your measurements against her sizing options.

Have fun with this dress! 
Sue 

Vogue 8795

Here is my latest creation, a cute little Marcy Tilton jacket. 

The pattern envelope describes the jacket like this: Semi-fitted, unlined jackets, A, B, C have collar, left front extending into drape and stitched hems.  A: purchased decorative hook and eye tape for closing.  A, C, Right front and right collar edges may be cut on the selvage, wrong side of fabric shows on the drape.  B, C: Purchased decorative zipper. 
This pattern is listed as easy and for moderate stretch knits only.  Sweater knits is listed as a recommended fabric and that is the main reason I choose this pattern. 

I found this lightweight sweater knit in the red tag clearance bin at Joanns.  I am really into knits and purple lately, so I had to have it.  This is my wearable muslin.  I had the purple separating zipper in my stash and was happy it was the right color of purple!  I shrunk the sweater knit by washing it and drying it prior to cutting out.  Now that I have done that, this finished garment will receive a cold water wash and air drying. 

Alterations I made to the garment was only my usual 1/2 inch swayback adjustment.  The directions call for 1 inch wide interfacing the length of the shoulder seam to stabilize.  I prefer using 1/4 to 3/8 inch clear elastic sewn into the shoulder seam.  Ready to wear is usually finished off with elastic and I think it is easier than ironing in interfacing.

I cut a 14 and knew it would be boxy.  I am thinking it is just a little too boxy since it stands away from my waist area.  See what I mean:  
I am sure it doesn't help the way I have my arms back and my hands in my pockets! 

Instructions are well-written and easy to follow.  Depending on your fabric, do take the extra few minutes to hand baste the zipper.  I had not previously sewn on a sweater knit and this proved very helpful to get it to lie smoothly.  The first two times I tried to sew the zipper in, I didn't baste and it took me longer than necessary to get a good final finish. 

A modification I made was to hand baste purple seam binding on the left inside of the jacket, just opposite of where the zipper is sewn in.  March has you construct a facing, however I just didn't like how it lied with the knit I used.  I trimmed that facing close to the seaming for the zipper and then simply inserted the bias tape.  I do like the extra punch of purple it gives. 

I also used narrow strips of fusible interfacing that I ironed to the hems prior to stitching.  That little extra step helped the hemming to be completed easily and quickly. 

I will most likely make this again.  The exposed zipper is a fun touch.  I think it would work in a lightweight stretch woven in a fun color.  If I can find hook and eye tape, I would like to try that as well! 

Have fun with this one!
Sue

Vogue 8497 Marcy Tilton Top

So, I can't seem to stay away from the Tilton girls, so here is my latest creation from Marcy.  I am beginning to believe that yes, I was meant to be a Tilton and so I am hoping either Katherine or Marcy will adopt me!

I choose to create 8497 view B.  I just love the lines of the top.  I am in need of some autumn and winter tops and this one fit the bill. 

Here is a line drawing of each view.

My original plan was to use view A, but as I started to lay out the pattern, I felt B was better for my fabric choice.

This is a multi-sized pattern: AA ranges 6 to 12 and EE ranges from 14 to 20

Here is a description from the back of the pattern envelope: Loose-fitting pullover tops have neckline, hem, sleeve, and hemline variations.  A, B, decorative stitching C, side panels (no side seams).

 

So my original fabric I purchased from none other than Marcy Tilton.  I have been eyeing this fabric for a while and finally broke down and purchased some of it.  How fun is a geometric print?  I love it.  The colors are awesome for fall and winter, so I snapped some of it up.  As I began laying this out, I quickly discovered that an entire top of this print would take away from the design details, so I rushed to our newly expanded and improved Joanns.  They had the perfect poly/cotton/spandex blend in basic black to set off the print.  I also decided I needed a transition from the print to stark black so I found a pumpkin-ish colored knit from my stash  that I purchased from Treadle Yard Goods in Minneapolis.  DH thinks the top is 'really different' but in a good sort of way. 

 

Pattern instructions and design is just great.  Directions are super easy to follow.  Drafting is accurate and the fit is just what you'd expect in a garment such as this.  I love that there are  no darts on this top.  Sometimes I get tired of darts in a t-shirt. 

 

I made some minor modifications to the design based on the fabric choices I made.  I added the pumpkin colored ruffle on the curved edges, both front and back.  I added this ruffle just because I felt I needed another color on the top.  I decided to use my ruffler attachment for this job and it was super easy.  I cut 1 1/2 inch strips of the fabric 44 inches wide and ruffled the entire length.  After ruffling, I basted it to the curved edge and then attached the contrast fabric.  I didn't like how my fabric laid on the curve with the raw edges showing, so I removed the contrast or the geometric print and laid it with right side together.  I serged the edges together and turn the geometric print back.  After that step, I followed the pattern directions and top stitched.   I know it is okay to leave raw edges exposed in knits, but I am still getting over my fear of doing this.  It is easier for me if the fabric is heavier as I seem to have more faith in it.  So consequently I couldn't leave the neck edge raw, so I folded it over and stitched.  As a result, the neckline is very narrow, only about 1/4 inch instead of about 1 inch. 

 

Other than those very minor design changes, the made two other alterations.  The first was to take in the side seams about 1/2 inch on each side.  My fabric was pretty stretchy so fit your top before you automatically take any fabric off the sides.      

 

I also lengthened the sleeves so they were long.  I like wearing long sleeves in the winter and to have the option for pushing my sleeves up as it is ually too warm for me.   

 

All in all, this is a great pattern.  I think there are so many variations that you can use this pattern at least 10 times before tiring of it.  To prove my point, I already cut out View C., which is radically different from A or B.  I am excited to see how it turns out. 

 

Try this pattern.  I believe you will have great results! 

Sue

  

Silhouette Patterns, Angie's Top

s  This is my first Silhouette pattern and for it I choose Angie's Top.  I just love the casual styling of this top.  I had read some reviews for Silhouette patterns and found that seamstresses like the simplicity of the pattern instructions. 
I have to say I agree! 

Silhouette patterns have B, C, and D cup sizing.  For this top, cup sizing isn't really necessary.  I found that to be true--sort of, read on. 

I used a fun and sparkly fabric I purchased from either Hancock or Joann.  I have so much in my stash sometimes I don't remember where I purchased what.  :)  My fabric was rather lightweight and the directions do not call for interfacing, so I used silk organza as interfacing just to give the collar section, cuffs, and ties some body.  The buttons I used were antique from a local shop that has some pretty vintage yardage as well.  That fabric will be used at another time, for another review.   

What is unique about these patterns is that you use finished garment measurements to figure out what size you'd like to make.  I started with a three and took the top in on the front sections about 1/2 inch for my final fitting.  I just found the top too loose.  My measurements, based on a favorite blouse with similar sizing would have been about a three. 

These patterns have you break up the sewing into two sessions, although with a blouse as easy and simple to put together as this, you could get it done in one. 

  I like the simple styling of this top.  It is current, simple to sew, and fun.  I really like the white as it shows off the lines in the design. 

This top is rather low cut, so beware.  I will have to wear a cami underneath if I wear it out in public, which I intend to do. 

Simple, fast, stylish, what more could you want?
Thanks for reading!
Sue

Vogue 8620 Marcy Tilton Jacket

Here is the description form the back of the pattern envelope: Semi-fitted jackets, A, B, have pockets, underarm gussets and front zipper closure.  B: silk-screened embellishments.  Package instructions include silk-screening. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Vogue+8620&view=detail&id=21182C825FA8584825AB7183FE61B00F1C611F1D&first=1

I love the fabric used on the pattern envelope. 

BB is 8 to 14 and FF 16 to 22. I made a 14 and like the fit.  You can see the detail in the line drawing all the details.  http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/vogue/8620/8620line.gif

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I think so!  I even silk-screened in the places Marcy advised to do so.  I didn't have the exact screens she used, but all the same, I do like mine and the placement is awesome.  Not too much but also just enough.  Know what I mean? 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Omg, the instructions were wonderful!  I hadn't made a hong-kong finish in a while but felt the directions were great.  I had not previously made underarm gussets but the directions walked me all the way through without any difficulty.  In the above picture, I had been squirming and my photographer got a little impatient.  It really doesn't have that many wrinkles in it.  :)  I hope you can see the silk screening I used. 
 
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I just love the styling of this jacket.  It looks very high end with a minimum amount of work.  Don't leave out all the little touches like topstitching around the pockets, hand-basting the zipper, and such.  Those touches make this jacket look boutique like. 

Fabric Used:
I just love this red denim I picked up at JoAnns.  It has just a little bit of stretch and the color is so pretty!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't alter a thing.  Gasp!  I usually alter at least one thing, but this time absolutely nothing. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes.  I would really like to find a fun print like is shown in view B. 
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Vogue+8620&view=detail&id=21182C825FA8584825AB7183FE61B00F1C611F1D&first=1

Conclusion:
I just loved making this jacket.  It was fun to put together, the instructions are easy to follow, and it looks very high-end.  What fun for fall! 
Thanks for reading!
Sue

Vogue 8151

I took a short hiatus from all the Tilton patterns I have been sewing and settled on this top by Sandra Betzina.  Here is a photo from the pattern envelope:
http://www.sewdirect.com/acatalog/V8151sx.jpg

I made the view shown above, or view A, the wrap top.
Sandra's patterns are based on sizes for mature women (bigger than average patterns in the waistline).  Her sizes are also letters of the alphabet ranging from A to J.  I made a size D but took it in considerably in the waist area.  I probably could have taken it in more, but for now, I am happy with the fit. 

The description from the envelope is this: Pullover tops with set-in sleeves, A: wrapped front, band, shirred sides and long sleeves.  B: top with three-quarter sleeves and optional tie front. 

This pattern envelope boasts the following qualities: Can be made in less than two hours
Bust darts for a great fit
Figure flattering style with set-in sleeves
Instructions written by Sandra Betzina

I used a wonderfully soft knit from JoAnns.  It has some spandex in it and was so soft and fun to work with.  I was very attracted to the print which is pretty abstract yet in my favorite color combination of black and white. 

Directions: The directions for this top are easy to understand, are well-written, and just simple to sew.  I have to say, I love the shaping of the front band that extends down both sides of the front of the top.  The darts do add shaping and if you are fuller chested, like me, any fitting in a knit top is appreciated.  It is low cut, but not too revealing.  For work, I plan on wearing a cami underneath. 

What do I recommend to others?  Go through the process of fitting the top by pinning one-inch seam starting under the arms and pinning through to the hip area.  When I did this, not only did I find I needed to stitch more than the one-inch seam allowance, but found it beneficial to stitch another 5/8 inch seam starting at the underarm and finishing at the hip. 

I did make a silly mistake when I cut out the top and accidentally cut out the front for A and then realized that what I thought was back A, was actually front B.  Luckily all I had to do was take a small wedge of fabric and splice it to the mistakenly cut back to make it fit correctly.  I was going to try and cut a new neckband but I didn't have enough fabric.  So, I made do and now it looks like a design element. 

I highly recommend this pattern to others.  It can be made in a variety of fabrics in great color combinations if you'd like to have different colored sleeves. 

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Katherine Tilton Top

Yes, I believe that I have to sew every single pattern that has a Tilton label on it in the near future, I am hooked! 
My latest and greatest is shown below.
You can see the pattern here: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Vogue+8793&view=detail&id=9A031B4325E15086F2B405DD8D2BCD3B58C41497&first=1

Here is the description from the back of the envelope: Misses' Top: Fitted, pullover tops, A, B, C have inner and outer collars with zipper trim, long sleeves, cuffs and stitched hem.  Contrast collar is cut on crosswise grain of fabric. 
This patter is sized XS to XXL.  I made a medium. 

This pattern is designed for knits only such as lightweight jersey, double knit, or cotton knit.  The only notions you need besides thread is a 24 to 28 inch molded separating zipper or combination of two zippers, fray check and small pieces of knit fusible interfacing. 

Instructions were so easy to follow!  I had no difficulty whatsoever!  The zipper collar looks a little daunting, but it went together slick! 

Here is what I changed/altered: Instead of fusible interfacing at the shoulder seams, I used clear elastic and just stitched it on when I sewed the shoulder seam.  Nothing against interfacing, I just didn't feel like digging it out. 
I purposely offset the zipper on the collar so I wouldn't have to worry about where the opening ended up.  (Refer to the pattern diagram and then look at my neckline to see the difference.)

I also purchased a 28 inch zipper, knowing I could easily cut off the excess without any fuss or worrying about whether it would be long enough or not.  DH thought it would rub my neck, but it doesn't at all, in fact the zipper didn't even touch my skin when I was modeling for him. 
I also didn't flip the collars around so that one main fabric and one contrast fabric showed.  I messed with which sides should be exposed to the world and like the main fabric as forward on both upper and lower collar sections. 

Fabric used: Two lovely knits, both lightweight and from Marcy Tilton.com.  The solid color I layered under the body of the top, as you can see on the patterned sleeve it is rather sheer.  Both knits were wonderful to work with and stitched up well!

There are only 17 steps to this top and if you choose the right fabrics, this will become a show-stopper!  I do plan on creating another in something completely different color wise.  It was fun to put together, rather intuitive, despite what the zipper looks like, and well, fun! 

I think this top can be dressy or very casual depending on your fabric and zipper choices.  Couldn't you just see this with a zipper with rhinestones on the teeth?  How awesome would that be?

Thanks for reading!
Sue