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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Vogue 8559

<b>Pattern Description: </b>This is a review for a super cute Marcy Tilton top.  I had a lot of fun creating this jacket and top.  Here is how the top and jacket are described on the pattern envelope:
Loose-fitting unlined jacket has dropped shoulders, sleeves and fronts are longer than the back.  There are three views, A has no side seams, decorative stitching on collar, sleeves and all hem edges.  B and C have contrast bands.  Pullover fitted tank has self or contrast bands on the neck and armhole.  Lower edges of all garments are unfinished. 

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
This pattern comes in sizes XS to XL.  I made a medium.




<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>  Yes, I think so.  I even silk-screened it, just like view B on the pattern envelope (I used a different screen).  I silk screened on the front edges, the back center below the neckline and the lower sleeves.   

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>  Oh yes, super easy instructions. 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>  I simply love the styling of the jacket.  It is fun, can be dressy or not and has many possibilities.  I also created the tank in a matching fabric and found it to be a great-fitting tank. 

<b>Fabric Used:</b>  Wonderfully soft, drapey ITY knit with some Lycra in it for extra stretch.  I purchased it at JoAnns.  The contrast I used was from Marcy Tilton's website.  I love all the colors in it and feel the green knit complements it well. 

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b> I changed nothing, absolutely nothing.  The only instructional method I changed was to put the contrast edge and fabric edge right sides together, sew, and turn to the right side.  I think top stitched 1/4 inch from the edge.   

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>  Yes, I do think I will make this numerous times, although I will have to change it up somewhat as it is rather distinct. 

<b>Conclusion: </b>  This was a fun jacket and tank to create.  It came together well, fits well, and just begs from some creativity!  It can be worn open or closed.  For the closure, I took a button I like and sewed it to a pin back with some heavy thread.  I like the pin closure but  DH does not.  :( 

Vogue 8813

Marcy Tilton Pullover dress is semi-fitted through the bust, has gathered front extending into the back collar, side front seams, draped lower side front with pockets and stitched hems. 

Here is a picture from the Vogue Pattern site: http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8813-products-22895.php?page_id=857&search_control=display&list=search

I was able to try on this dress in July when I attended Katherine Tiltons' workshop, Beyond the Arty T.  It was so much fun and there were many women in attendance of various shapes and sizes and everyone that tried on the dress looked great! 

So, here is my review. 

Pattern Description: </b> 
See above.  The only thing I might add is that the dress has over sized front pockets and two sleeve-length variations. 

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
This pattern is sized XS though Med.  Another sizing option is L through XXL. 

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>
Yes, I think it looks a lot like the pattern envelope, even though I added another button so the pockets didn't hang as much as the design indicates. 


<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Instructions were very easy to follow.  I had not made the faux-smocking before and followed the instructions to a T.  I think mine turned out lovely.  I added this close-up so you can judge for yourself. 


<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
I love how unique the pattern and styling is.  It is fun, looks great on a variety of sizes and figure types and really lends itself to a variety of fabrics. 

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
I used a light-weight denim that has plaid-type white  and blue line running vertically and horizontally though it.  It was wonderful to work with, sewed beautifully, ravelled a little but nothing that was out of the ordinary, and pressed wonderfully.  I think I purchased it from JoAnns but it could have been Hancock.  I have purchased so much fabric lately, I simply can't remember.  It is 100% cotton and washes and dries like a dream. Even after wearing it for an entire day, the back wasn't that wrinkled.  I still looked presentable.  :) 




<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b> 
The only thing I changed was adding two buttons to the pockets to help hold them in a more closed position.  If my fabric had been more drapey, I wouldn't have messed with the buttons.  Fabric choice is so important no matter what you create but especially so with a dress that requires exquisite drape such as this one. 

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>  This dress is so much fun and unique and it was so much fun to sew that yes, I highly recommend it to others.  And yes, if I find just the right fabric, I do plan on creating it again. 

<b>Conclusion: </b>
I had a lot of fun making this dress.  I really enjoyed making the gathers with what I feel are excellent results.  I wore this dress to work and received many compliments on it.  Try this pattern if you want something unique and FUN!!! 


Thanks for reading!!!
Sue :) 

Sunday, August 12, 2012

McCall;s 6435 Lace Top!

After agonizing over whether to actually use this beautiful black stretch lace I purchased from Treadle Yard Goods in Minneapolis, I came across this pattern by McCalls and decided it is better to take a risk and cut into it and see if I liked the result.  Well, guess what, I love it! Why didn't I use this lace sooner? 

Here is my review for a rather graphic top and here is a picture of it.    McCalls 6435 top 

MISSES' TOPS: Close fitting, pullover tops have neck and sleeve length variation. A,B: Heart shaped yoke. C,D: Asymmetrical shaped yoke.
Designed for light and medium-weight moderate stretch knits only.
SUGGESTED FABRICS: For Moderate Stretch Knits: Cotton Knits, Jersey, Stretch Sheers, Stretch Lace.
When I read Stretch Lace, I knew I could wait no longer to use my beautiful lace.  I also really like the graphic ITY knit I purchased at Treadle. 

While it is close fitting and I know how some of these patterns fit me, I went ahead and used a size 14 which translates to a medium in RTW.  I think it fits great! 

Here is my review:
What did I like or dislike about the pattern?  Loved how easy it is to put together.  This is an instant gratification project with great looking results.  Everything fit together really well.  You won't believe this, but I actually lowered the neckline about 1.5 inches in the front by just gradually cutting the neckline starting at the center front and tapering to about 3 inches from the shoulder seam.  I just felt like I was getting a little strangled by the fabric.  This is so unusual for me as I typically raise necklines as much as I can! 

What did I change?  Not much, only enough to make the pattern my own and add a few extras to make the top not look to RTW. 
I used clear elastic at the shoulder seams so they would stay put and not stretch out and you know what, it works great! 
I used seam tape at the seam between the lace and main fabric, just to keep everything neat and tidy.  I decided I just didn't want to hem anything, so I cut 1 inch wide pieces of black stretch mesh, folded it over and sewed it to the right side of the hemmed edges.  Next I simply turned the seam to the wrong side and topstitched on the right side.  I love how it finished off the neckline, sleeves, and lower hem. 
I did my typical 1/2 inch swayback adjustment with good results! 

I highly recommend this pattern to others.  It is simple, can be dressed up and down and has so many fabric combinations that is it just one of those patterns you don't want to forget you own.  You don't even have to use the contast fabrics and can simply tape those edges together and cut out just a front and back.  It really does fit that well!  Yes, I know that a strapless or black bra would look better, but I just didn't want to change undergarments for a pic. 

Conclusion:  I had a lot of fun with this top.  DD2 wants one next so I had her try on mine.  With a few minor adjustments she will have a unique top as well! 

Thanks for reading!


Sue

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Vogue 8834

This is a Katherine Tilton top that is a new pattern.  When I saw it on the Vogue pattern website, I knew I had to have it!  Here is the description from the back of the envelope: Very loose-fitting top has yoke extending into collar (wrong sides show) with dart tucks, no shoulder seams, mock front bands, narrow hem and asymmetrical button closing.  Instructions for silk screening are included.  Well, guess what, I didn't silk screen or embellish this top in any manner! 
Here is a picture of the pattern envelope: Vogue 8834

Suggested fabrics are poplin, polished cotton and cotton lawn.  It takes up to 17 buttons to march down the front of this top, so be prepared to spend some time with your button hole feature of your machine. 

I chose view C with the long sleeves.  The fabric I used was a fun poly print from Hancock.  I had no idea what I was going to do with it when I purchased it but it was so adorable, I had to have it.  When I saw this pattern, I thought, bingo!  Perfect!  The only thing that wasn't perfect about it is the stiffness of the fabric.  To really do this pattern justice, you need a perky cotton--if you know what I mean! 





This is a multi-sized pattern.  You may choose the ranges from 10 to 18 or 18 to 26.  I made a 14.  It fits me perfectly though the shoulders and given the style and manner in which this top is created (no shoulder seams) it must fit precisely in that area of the body. 

What did I like/dislike about the pattern?  I simply loved the construction process.  Almost every seam is sewn with a french seam which makes it so neat and tidy on the inside.  The only seam I used my serger on is the armhole.  I do wonder about the 'easy' rating on this pattern.  No, french seams are not hard, but with the shoulder darts, the french seams and the collar, I am not sure this is entirely easy. 

What did I change?  Nothing, I used the pattern instructions as written (gasp!)  I even used the buttonhole guide as the proper placement for the buttonholes. 

I highly recommend this pattern.  It is unique and fun but quite stylish at the same time.  While it is unique, I do believe I will repeat this pattern in a crisper cotton in a three-quarter or short-sleeved version.  I think I will like how the collar sits on my neckline. 

Conclusion: this was so much fun to stitch up!  There are so many embellishment possibilities with this top and the possibility of paint.  The buttons really show off the asymmetrical closure, so use some color/contrast when choosing the buttons you want.   

Sunday, July 29, 2012

McCalls 6359

<b>Pattern Description: </b>This is an EASY pattern for three different top variations from McCalls. 
<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
This is a multi-sized pattern with A5 having sizes 6 to 14 in one envelope. I choose a 12 for view C. 
<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>  ....well, if you subtract the modifications I made, yes, the original shape of the garment is there. 
<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Instructions were super easy, almost too easy, if you know what I mean.  I had to make some modifications as nothing screams made by me like a turned under and stitched neckband and armhole edges--maybe that is just me. 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
I really liked the style of A and actually constructed that top first, but it was so very loose fitting and bare (yes, I know it is supposed to be bare in the back, but it felt uncomfortably so) that I just couldn't wear it and feel great about it, so I cut it apart and decided on view C instead.  I didn't have white stretch lace, so I went with the same fabric as the bodice front and back.  More on design changes below. 
View C fit much more to my liking. 

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
I used a cheap cotton knit from Hancock.  I love the color and who doesn't love polka-dots? I wouldn't recommend the fabric because it wasn't the best quality. 


<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
Here goes on changes!  I had fully intended to create a 'plain' garment, i.e., no embellishments but the screen prints I ordered from Marcy Tilton arrived while I was at Hancocks so I just had to play with them!  I started with the purple paint and the large screen and placed six of those down the front in a cascading pattern. 
After that screen, I wanted to soften it up a bit with the stencil I purchased for one dollar at Hancock.  I used two colors for that one: yellow and green.  The dots on the stencil I used the same purple color I used for the large screen. 
Well, this is when trouble began.  I started counting the number of large swirls I so carefully screened and realized there were SIX, not five, not seven.  Everyone knows an odd number is more pleasing, so I grabbed the wet foam brush I used for the purple and added another swirl.  All was great in the universe until I lifted the screen and realized the brush wasn't just a little wet, it was really wet an the paint ran in a big way.  I was just about to wad it up when DH arrived and checked out my issue and suggested I piece in a coordinating piece of fabric and cut the mistake out.  Now, why didn't I think of that?  I used his suggestion and I liked it!  So, I carried on. 
Armhole and neckline edges are finished on the pattern envelope using bias tape.  I hate using bias tape on knits so I cut strips on the bias and added those but left about 1/2 inch so you can see it on the right side.  On the neckline I decided to use the white and polka-dots layering the two strips on top of one another.  I like the result until I noticed it wasn't perfectly even so I just trimmed the white close to neckline and it is just barely peeking out.  I had the very cute lime green buttons and decided I just HAD to use them, so they ended up at the neckline as well. 
I also used 5/8 inch strips of interfacing in the hemline as this knit is pretty thin and stretches out easily.  It helped keep the hemline in check when I top stitched it.
Oh, and the most important modification I made was to the yoke back: I redrew the shape of the yoke so I had more coverage in back.  If you look at the envelope, the gal wearing view C has roughly 1/2 of her back showing, I extended the narrowest portion of the yoke by about 1.5 inches on each side. 
I also did my normal sway back alteration, on for this top, instead of 1/2 inch, I used 1.5 inches.   

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
I may sew this again.  If one of my two DDs wants one I will sew it up for them.  I may create it again for myself.   
<b>Conclusion: </b>
I had a lot of fun with this top and it will be just in time for me to wear to watch my son graduate from boot camp in Texas.  I am sure this top will keep me cool--at least I hope so!
Thanks for reading,
Sue



Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Katherine Tilton Vogue 8817

Not one for repeats, I decided I had to repeat this Katerine Tilton top. I have created it once before with this same view, but feel like I have a completely different look!  Wow, I think I need to repeat patterns more often! 

For this go around, I decided on view B. You can see the version I adapted here: Katherine Tilton top

Here is the description from the back of the envelope I copies and pasted from Vogue's website:
Close-fitting, pullover top has neck binding, seam detail, stitched hems, contrast variations, and optional double needle topstitching and silk screen motifs. A and B: sleeve bands. B:lower front cut on crosswise grain of fabric. D: purchased trim. Note: included are Katherine Tilton's instructions for silk screening.
FABRICS: For Two-Way Stretch Knits: Cotton/Spandex, Rayon/Spandex, Nylon/Spandex. Contrast A,B,Contrast C,D 1,2: Sheer Knits.

When I started putting this top together, I realized that for some silly reason, I didn't purchase enough fabric.  ARGH!  It isn't like I could just go get more as I purchased this fabric when I was in Minneapolis, which is four hours away!  Sometimes when you are faced with a sewing problem, it forces you to be more creative than you may have been.  I am pleased with my end result.   


Fabric used: Graphic knit from Treadle Yard Goods in Minneapolis.  The coordinating solid was also purchased at Treadle.   

Directions: the directions for this pattern are really excellent. There are tips from Katherine on screen-screening your top! The pattern is well-drafted and everything fits together very well.

What did I change? My changes were based on the fact I simply didn't purchase enough fabric.  So, I decided to freelance a design on just one sleeve of the top.  I couldn't find any sort of screen print, stencil, or found objects to recreate the design with paint so I freelanced.  I used some thin pressing bars and portions of two foam stamps.  The rest I free handed.  Paint was purchased at Dharma and I highly recommend it if you like to embellish your garments--either out of necessity, or simply to add whimsy and a fun twist!  



  

What did I like/dislike?
I really like the styling of this pattern.  I believe it looks great on a variety of people and with variety of fabrics. This can be dressed up/down as much as you'd like!  Any of these tops just scream for embellishments, creativity, and a variety of textures and fabrics.  I can't imagine using just one fabric on this top!   

I highly recommend this pattern if you want something a little different to wear. I like all the views, and this is the second time I have made view A.  Now, if the weather would just cool down so I can wear it! 

Have fun with this pattern! I sure did! 
Thanks for reading,
Sue

Thursday, July 19, 2012

McCall's 6035

What a fun top!  This is a McCall's pattern for four versions of a princess seamed blouse.  I simply love this pattern!  I believe this will become a TNT for me! 

Here is my version and review. 

Pattern Description:
Here is the description from the back of the pattern envelope: Shirts A, B, C, D have princess seams and button closures, shirt A has collar band and short sleeves with cuffs; shirts B, C, D have collar, collar band and below elbow length sleeves; shirt B has sleeves with cuffs shirt C has sleeves with turn back cuffs with tabs; shirt D has sleeves with drawstrings, separate pattern pieces provided for A/B, C, D cup sizes.  pattern image

Suggested fabrics: lightweight fabrics such as cotton, cotton blends, challis, crepe de chine, charmeuse, silk rayon, handkerchief linen. 




Pattern Sizing:  This is a multi-sized pattern.  I used a 14 for this top. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I believe that is looks just like the drawing. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
This is a well written, well configured pattern.  Everything fit together well, notches matched up.  If you are a beginner and haven't sewn a blouse, this might be the pattern for you! 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I really love these 'cup' sized patterns.  They eliminate the need to complete an FBA.  I have had wonderful success with every pattern that has cup sizes included. 

Fabric Used:
I used 100% linen from SR Harris in Minneapolis.  I love the turquoise and orange combination.  I was able to use orange buttons for this blouse.  How often do you get to do that?  I love orange! 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made a 1/2 inch swayback alteration and am glad I did.  Design changes include a great deal more topstitching than is included int he pattern.  The pattern instruction have you top stitch the front band.  I included topstitching on the princess seams, around the collar band, the sleeve bands, and a double row on the hem.  I used a beautiful rayon Sulky thread that matched so well I simply had to use it a lot on the blouse. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have a few pieces in my stash that I am eying for versions B & D.  They are different enough from A that I can use this pattern at least three times, if not many more! 
Yes, I do recommend this pattern to others.  It is fast, easy, ripe for embellishments, and fun to put together.  If you are speedy, this could become an instant gratification project--it is that easy! 

Conclusion:
This is a great pattern.  I wish I wouldn't have waited so long to sew it up!
Thanks for reading!
Sue