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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Friday, February 1, 2013

Butterick 5616 Boxy Jean Jacket

Butterick 5616 or the boxy jean jacket! 
Here is a description from the back of the envelope: Very loose-fitting jackets A, B, C, D, in three lengths have princess seams, front and back yokes, slightly forward shoulder, buttoned fronts and topstitch trim.  A, B, below waist, patch pockets with buttoned flaps, three-quarter lengths sleeves with buttoned cuffs.  A: stand-up collar, B: collar, topstitched band at lower edge.  C: hip length, collar, patch pockets and cap sleeves, finished with bias tape.  D: hip length, collar patch pockets with flaps and armholes finished with bias tape. 

You need to love buttons and button holes to create this one: A needs 13 and B requires 14.  Myself, I used 12. 

I don't think the pattern envelope does this justice, I mean check it out. 

This image is better:

Here's the line drawings so you can see the details:

This pattern is listed as easy and it really is just easy. 

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
Sizing for this pattern is either AA (6 to 12) or E5 (14 to 22)
I made a 14 and found I had to take it in at the side seam quite a bit.  More on that later. 

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>
Yes, I believe that it looks like the line drawing and the photograph I found on-line. I made View A with the lower band of B attached. 

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Instructions were easy to follow and easy to read.  This is a very basic pattern so if you have sewn a blouse or simple jacket, you won't have any difficulties. 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>
Ok, here I go again.  For some weird reason, I have been choosing boxy patterns lately but wanting something a little more fitted.  This has nothing to do with the pattern but my ignoring of how the fit is portrayed on the envelope.  So, I wanted something a little less boxy and was able to take it in at the waist to reflect that. 
My only dislike with the pattern is where you reinforce the neck edge to accommodate the strain of where you attach the collar.  I thought the notch was too far from the foldline of the front facing and so I moved it over towards the facing.  I thought the collar looked funny with it sitting how the pattern showed.  I moved it about 3/4 to 1 inch towards the center front.  Perhaps if I had made the view with the collar, I would have left it.  Not sure, but that is just a hunch. 

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
 I used a gold snake skin looking denim from JoAnns.  I was a little disappointed in it actually.  I noticed that on the fold line the 'gold print' was rubbing off.  I didn't notice until I had all the pieces laid out, cut out and was sewing them together.  Luckily I had a little extra fabric so I was able to recut a few pieces that would have looked really weird with a solid stripe down the middle.  I always wash my denim two or three times to prevent residual shrinkage.  I hope I didn't cause the lose of gold on the fabric!  It doesn't lay as nice in the back as I 'd hope it would.  Maybe the denim needs washed a few more times to soften it up a little more.  For the first time, I used some really wonderful interfacing from here: https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/  Wow, this puts the crap I have been purchasing to shame.  Never again am I waisting my time on that cheap junk.  Is that an endorsement or what?

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
As I stated earlier, I moved the notch over at the neckline so it was closer to the center front and the self-facing. 
1/2 inch sway back adjustment.
Since it was so boxy, I ended up taking it in at each side seam at the waist about 1 inch and tapering it to the regular size at the hips.  It is still boxy, but I can live with the fit. 
I used two buttons at each cuff instead of three. 

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
I like the design of this jacket.  I would like to work a little more on the fit before I give this a glowing recommendation.  I do believe that depending on your fabric choice you can make this somewhat dressy or super casual. 
So yes, if you are looking for a fun and simple jean-type jacket, this is a great and fairly fast project. 

<b>Conclusion: </b>
I had a lot of fun making this jacket.  I am disappointed in the fabric, I really thought it would perform better than it did (print not adhering to the fold line).  This could be very embellished with rivets, jean buttons, etc. 
Don't pass this by just because of the less than exciting envelope.  It has a lot more potential than that drab drawing. 

Thanks for reading!


  1. Oh, once more a make redeems a sorry envelope! I wonder hopw many patterns are bought because someone made one that as so much cooler than the envelope pic and made us interested? They owe you- cuz now I have it on my list! Nicely done.

  2. I love your jacket! Joann's fabric makes me nervous the more I read about experiences like yours. We put passion and effort into creating a well-fitted garment only to have the fabric disappoint. Maybe you could remake the jacket with a quality fabric from a different source. You did a great job!

    1. You know, that is a great idea, I will remake this with a higher quality fabric. I am sure the fit will be more to my liking. :) Thanks so much for the comment!

  3. Cute! You mentioned that you found some wonderful interfacing on the site that you referred to. However, you didn't mention the name of it, so when I went to the site, I found too many to choose from. Would you be so kind as to share this wonderful find with us - the name in particular?? thank you!

  4. I have made several jackets from this pattern. I am just finishing one with Christmas fabric. This time I lengthened the sleeves about an inch and a half. I usually make this jacket with 12 buttons (I just use 2 on each cuff). Twelve 3/4-inch buttons is a lot of buttons! It seems like the buttons cost as much as the fabric. I made it with denim fabric and I didn't like the way it turned out. Still like this pattern, though.