Butterick 5646

Pattern Description:
This pattern is for four different tunics that are semi-fitted and have double bands.  A, B, C have stitched armhole facings.  C, D have stitched pleats. 

Pattern Sizing:
Sizes are Y (XS to M) and ZZ (L to XXL).  I made a medium in view B and it fits just fine. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I believe my finished garment looks quite a bit like the envelope.  I really detest some of the line drawings they do nothing for people wanting to pick it up and sew it.  I found it mainly by checking out McCallspatterns.com.  The photograph does this top justice. 

The envelope just has the drawings.  The photograph is on the website.   

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Instructions were more than adequate.  I merely glanced at them and then did my own thing with the band and buttons. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes:
I really like the style of this top along with the length.  It is a tunic with some funky twists of the pleated side or sides and the pockets.  Sleeves are totally optional and while I included them, I am not sure I love them.  I may take them off, but we will see. 
Everything is well drafted and fits together really well.  I started with the no sleeves option which required the armhole facings which is awful with white fabric.  So, after I decided to attach the sleeves and left the facings.  I cut them down to about 1/2" so it looks more like RTW. 
Everything is nice a tidy on the inside, especially the way the top is hemmed and then the bands are attached. 
Dislikes:
I really didn't like the band for the buttonholes and buttons.  It is a single layer of fabric that is not interfaced or anything.  In this step the directions tell you to back the buttonhole with a remnant of fabric to reinforce the area.  Well, with cotton fabric, I thought it wouldn't hold up, so I went ahead and cut another piece of band, interfaced it, and attached it to the other band so it is two thicknesses instead of one.  Hopefully you can see what I did in the photograph. 
I also think I may take in the center back seam at the waistline to give it a little more definition on the backside.  What do you think?  Should I alter it?  DH thinks it is fine.  I am open to suggestions.  :) 

Fabric Used:
I used this colorful white/orange stretch cotton from fabricmart.  I think I bought it last summer and I am such a sucker for orange and white that I had to have it.  It sewed up really well, presses well, and just behaved beautifully during the entire process. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The only design change is listed above in the dislikes.  I also made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would like to make this again in a silky- type fabric.  I believe the flow would be amazing and the way it would skim your body would be just lovely.  I do recommend this pattern to others.  It went together in about 3 hours from cutting out to sewing on the buttons. 

Conclusion:
Don't let a dull pattern envelope fool you, this is a cute, under-reviewed top that has great potential!

Thanks for reading!
Sue



Butterick 5510 for Babies!

<b>Pattern Description: </b>

This is an uber cute baby boy pattern that I made for my Grandson, whom will be born in September.  I simply couldn't resist, could you? 
Here is the description from the back of the envelope: Loose-fitting shirts, A, B have collar, dropped shoulders, stitched hems and above elbow sleeves.  Loose-fitting T-shirt has neck band and short sleeves.  Pants C have stitched detail, front waistband, carriers, back hems and snap inner leg.  Pants D have no ides seams, elastic waist and ankles.  Purchased trim.  Hat has crown and brim. 




<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
Size combinations are NB to M or L to XL.  I made a medium or about a six month old size (at least I think that's the size.) 

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>
Yes, I think mine looks quite a bit like the photo of the very cute little guy on the envelope. 

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
Instructions were great.  The written and visuals made perfect sense. 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>

This pattern is super easy and stylish.  The pants turned out to look like little jeans and that was the look I was going for.  One thing I didn't like was how the neckline was finished.  I did my own thing and serged the edge rather than turning under and slip stitched.  It just seemed like the collar wouldn't lay very well and also, I was feeling a tad bit lazy.  I am not sure if it was due to a pattern drafting error or an error on my part, but I had to make tiny tucks on the front pant leg so the waistband would fit.  I need to sew this again and not watch Grey's Anatomy so I can determine whether it is operator error or not. 

<b>Fabric Used:</b>
100% cotton for both the shirt and jeans.  The denim was a remnant from a previous project and the Star Wars fabric I purchased because my son-in-law and daddy-to-be is a huge Star Wars fan. 

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
Other than the neckline finish I added some embroidery to the back pocket.  I couldn't resist putting 'Jedi in training'.  It's cute, at least I think!  I also didn't want to add the snap tape to the legs as I haven't found one that feels like it will hold up to multiple washings.  If anyone has some ideas on sources, please let me know as I see a lot of baby garments in my future. 

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
Yes, I will be sewing this cute little pattern many times and I highly recommend it to others.  It's cute, easy, and I just giggled the entire time I was making it.  What fun! 

<b>Conclusion: </b>
I decided to submit this into the natural fibers contest.  Enjoy making this pattern for the little man in your life. 
Thanks for reading!
Sue
Can't wait until I have a live model to wear the creations I make for him!

Vogue Easy pants 8883

<b>Pattern Description: </b>
This is an easy pants pattern described like this: Semi-fitted shorts or tapered pants have self-lined yokes, side front and back seams and back zipper.  C: Narrow hems.  D: Tie Ends and cuffs.  C, D: Side slits with purchased trim.  A, B, E: Stitched hems. 

<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
A5 (8 to 14) or E5 (14 to 22)
I made a size 14 with just a few adjustments based on my muslin. 

right side is the muslin, left fitted for me

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b> Sure did! 

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b>
The instructions are more than adequate.  Honestly, this is one of those patterns that you can look at the line drawing and figure out how to create it, it is that easy! 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b>

Caboose side

I thought the ease wasn't as typical as is in most Vogue patterns, especially those listed as semi-fitted.  According to the finished measurements on the tissue and my experience with Vogue, it fits quite a bit snugger in the waist and hips than I am accustomed to.  Also, I had to adjust the rise in order to accommodate me.  Other than that, I really do like the style of the pattern.  My only real gripe is a zipper on the booty.  I moved it to the side.  Read on for more information about the minor alterations I made.

<b>Fabric Used:</b>  
Denim from my stash.  My muslin or the view on the right was made with a much lighter weight denim than the version on the left.  I love the weight of the muslin and encourage anyone wanting to make these pants to use a light-weight fabric as it will lay nicer. 

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
1.  For my muslin, I made a straight size 14 and felt the rise on the crotch seam was a little short.  I added 1/2" on the front and back at the waistline for a much more comfortable fit. 
2.  For my muslin and finished pant I moved the zipper from the center back seam and moved it to the side.  I think it looks better and definitely feels better.  I eliminated the side ties from the final garment due to a lack of fabric.  Both pieces were from my stash so I had limited yardage.
3.  To finish off the waistband on the inside of the garment, I attached some bias tape from my stash, stitched it down and rather than turning the edge and stitching, just pinned it flat and stitching in the ditch.  It is much less bulky and let me use up some scraps and add some color to the waistband.  When I look at higher-end RTW pants, I often see this type of application at the waistband.   The creases you see on the inside of the waistband are just that, creases.  I am sure after I wash the denim again, they will come out. Luckily, they are not visible from the right side.  :) 

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
I do plan on creating these pants again soon in a linen or linen-like or a dressier than denim type fabric.  The denim is great, but for warm summer days, a nice light weight fabric will be welcomed. 
I do recommend this pattern to others, especially beginners or those that have never tackled pants.  It is an easy pattern to get your feet wet on, if you know what I mean!

<b>Conclusion: </b>
Sorry I am not modeling these for you.  It is one of those days where I feel like I ate a pound of raw bread dough that expanded in my stomach and I can't even think about putting on anything that may actually have a waist! 

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Vogue 8792 The super easy Tunic/Tee

Hello summer!  We finally have summer-like weather in the northern plains and wow does it feel great!  What a welcome pattern this will be! 

Here's the description:
Misses' top: pullover top has neck band and seam detail.  A, B, C: Bias, loose-fitting, front extends to upper back, back extends to upper front, no shoulder or side seams and stitched hem.  D, E, F: Close-fitting, bias lower front and lower back, raw edge finish and stitched hem on sleeves.  Front and back cut on crosswise grain of fabric. 



  Cute, huh? 
Sizing is A5 or 8 to 14 or E5 14 to 22
I made a size 14 and view B.

This pattern is sized for moderate stretch knits only so make sure you test your fabric on the gauge shown on the back. 

There are only eleven steps to this top, so it whips up quick with great results.  Written and visual instructions are great.  I think my top looks a lot like the envelope.   

I used a knit I purchased from Marcy Tilton.  It is rather light and somewhat sheer, so I wore a white tank underneath. 

Likes/Dislikes:
I really like the length of this tunic.  It would be just about perfect if you wore leggings with it. 
On thing I will change for next time is to widen the sleeve opening.  It is slightly snug and I by no means have big arms!  There isn't really a way that I can figure out how to check that measurement based on the pattern pieces.  Once you lay it out, you will see what I am talking about. 
I am really on the fence about views D to F.  I just hate darts in T's.  If I have a busy fabric, I may try it, but with a solid?  Not sure I will even consider it. 

Make this super easy pattern a part of your wardrobe.  You'll love it!

Thanks for reading!
Sue
 

Kwik Sew Tunic Repeat! 3463

So here is round two of one of my favorite tunics!  I just love this under reviewed pattern.  It is so very simple, fits great, goes together well, what more could you want?

Just as a reminder, here is the pattern envelope. 
. 

For this version, I obviously made the view with short sleeves and the lower neckline. 
Since this was round two, I won't bore you with too many details. 

I used a sheer knit from Marcy Tilton.

I love this fabric! 
I wore a black cami underneath the tunic.  It was easy to sew and I did use pins as the cut edge tended to roll. 

 

From the back of the website: McCall Pattern Company:

These tunics are designed for lightweight stretch knits only with 20% stretch across the grain. We suggest single knit, jersey, and interlock fabrics.

These leggings are designed for two-way stretch fabrics with 75% stretch across the grain. We suggest cotton Lycra®, rayon Lycra®, nylon Lycra®, and swimwear fabrics.

Tunic view A has full-length sleeves and a round neckline with self-fabric neckband. Tunic view B has short sleeves with cuffs and a scoop neckline with self-fabric neckband. Tunics are shown with purchased belts. Leggings, without side seams, have an elastic waist. View A are scrunched at the ankle, View B are ankle length, and View C are below-knee length.
And, here are the line drawings. 

Here is what I changed from the original pattern:
1.  I cut the neckband on the bias.  Believe it or not, I didn't have a piece of fabric large enough to cut on the cross grain, so I improvised.  It worked. 
2.  For heaven sakes, don't set in the sleeves.  Sew them on after you stitch the shoulder seam.  I attached the cuffs prior to attaching the sleeves.  After stitching the sleeves on, I serged from the cuff to hem and then folded the cuff in place and stitched in the ditch to secure it. 
3.  For fabric this sheer, it was a must to use steam-a-seam lite to baste the hemline in place. 
This entire process took about one hour to create from cutting out to stitching the hems.  Use a fun fabric and you won't be disappointed!  I opted to lengthen the top to the large setting and used a medium through the hips and waist and a large in the chest. 

Very comfortable top!  Try it!

Sue

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McCall's 6517 Raincoat!

I have been wanting to make a raincoat for a long time!  How long? Well, I purchased this Amy Butler laminated cotton last summer when it was on sale, purchased the avocado green lining shortly after and promptly forgot about it until my daughter was rummaging through my stash and mentioned how this would make a great raincoat.  How could I have forgotten?  With our nasty spring weather, I thought perfect, get this done, you might need it!

Here is my review of McCall's 6517. 


Description from the back of the envelope: Misses' jackets, belt and boot liners: Loose-fitting, unlined jackets, A. B, C, D have self-lined hood or collar and narrow hem.  B: purchased bias tape finishes garment.  C: flaps.  A, B, C: mock front bands.  D: Wrap, self-belt.  Boot liners E have pleated heel and cuffs. 

Pattern sizing for this pattern is B5 (8 to 16) or F5 (16 to 24).  I made a size 14-ish based on the finished garment measurements printed on the pattern tissue. 

As I stated above, I used a laminated cotton from Amy Butler.  It was half-price, 60" wide and I used about 2.5 yards for the coat.  The lining is from Fabric.com--incidentally, it was the only place I could find this color of lining!  The buttons were from my stash. 

I made view A, without the belt.  I actually made the belt, but decided it looked funny so I won't wear it. 





Instructions are fine, except for step 26.  In this step, you have attached the hood and are supposed to trim the seam allowance and then turn the fabric under covering the seam.  I hope this makes sense!  Did the pattern makers actually try this will three layers of laminated fabric?  I enclosed this seam with some very pink bias tape and a decorative stitch.  It adds another pop of color to the already colorful coat!   
This pattern is listed as easy, but before a beginner jumps on this make sure you have the right tools in order to get a good result.  I read quite a few blogs before I embarked on this coat.  Having said that, it went together really well, was easy--mostly since I had the right tools to make it easy! 

Here is what I did:
1.  I sprayed the tissue paper pieces with 505 adhesive spray.  You do not want to use pins as they will leave permanent holes in the fabric. 
2.  I lined the pockets with my lining fabric to ensure a good (pretty good) smooth edge when you sew them onto the coat front.  Since you can't pin, I used a fabric glue stick to baste to the coat and them sewed around them. 
3.  Use a walking foot.  I can't tell you how much this fabric will stick to your throat plate.  If you don't have one, get one.  A Teflon foot will help, but the fabric will still stick to the metal plate. 
4.  Lining.  This coat didn't call for a lining.  I put one in using the pattern pieces.  I also opted to line the hood with my lining fabric rather than the laminated cotton.  This seemed to be a good solution as the coat fabric got a little thick sewing the hood on. Had I used three layers of the cotton, I wouldn't have gotten as nice of a result. 
5.  Sleeves: I bagged the sleeve lining.  This made it easier to get a nice hem on the sleeve.  I still topstitched the edge so it laid crisper.  There is quite a bit of ease in the sleeve cap.  If you stitch slowly and maneuver your fabric to avoid puckers, you will be okay.  Take it s-l-o-w. 
6.  While you may be tempted to omit the stay stitching at the neckline, don't.  You need the reinforcement there in order to clip the neck-edge and fit the hood to the garment. 
7.  Speaking of the hood, I try to be rather precise, so I did use some pins in order to line up the seams on the cotton and lining fabric so when I topstitched, both pieces lined up nicely.  I ran the pins parallel to the seams, on the seam lines and it worked great.  Again, sew slowly. 
8.  Hemming.  To hem the coat, I knew I couldn't press so I stitched 1" from the bottom, turned 1/2" and stitched 3/8" using a decorative stitch to hold the fabric and lining in place.  Next,  I turned the fabric another 1/2 inch and stitched another 3/8 from the bottom.  No pins were required! 
9.  I used a size 12 Sharp needle from Schmetz.  This worked well.  A larger needle will leave bigger holes in your fabric. 
10. I backed my buttons with small, white buttons to keep them from pulling through the fabric. 

All in all, I love my raincoat!  It is pretty roomy, so keep that in mind if you decide to whip this up!

Alterations:
My usual 1/2" sway back adjustment.  This fabric has no give, so I folded the tissue a the waist and tapered it to nothing at the side seam on both the cotton and lining. 
I lowered the pockets about 1 inch so they fit where my hands naturally would fit into a pocket. 

Conclusion:
I do recommend this coat to others.  It has some fun possibilities using various fabrics. 
Thanks for reading!
Sue  

Vogue 1337

I love the shape of this pattern. 
All 3 images from Vogue Patterns.   



Here's the line drawing. 
You can see all the pleating on the front, back, and front waistline. 

This pattern is EASY!!!  It only took a short time to put together. 

<b>Pattern Description: </b>
Here is the description.  First, I should say this is a designer pattern from Mark & James from Badgley Mischka and yes, you read correctly, it is EASY!!! 
Pullover dress (cut on crosswise grain) has very loose-fitting, slightly blouson bodice, shoulder/front waist and skirt side pleats, elastic seamed waist, stitched hems, thread loops and self-lined belt. 


<b>Pattern Sizing:</b>
Pattern sizing is AX5 (4 to 12) and D5 (12 to 16)
Based on the finished measurements printed on the pattern tissue, I made a 12.  Typically, I sew between a 14 and 16 with Vogue, depending on how it fits.  This is plenty roomy on me.  I wouldn't want it any bigger.  As an extra bonus, for you girls that are full-chested, no FBA is needed!  Yahoo!

  

<b>Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?</b>
Yes, I believe my version of this dress looks like the envelope.  It is tough to see all the details with the very busy print I used, but they are all there. Of course I made some modifications which I will detail below. 

<b>Were the instructions easy to follow?</b> Instructions were easy-peasy.  No issues whatsoever!  My only gripe, and mind you this is really minor, is that there is an elastic guide for the waistline, but not for the shoulder seams.  Seems a little silly to me, nothing that you can't figure out, but the directions don't specify to make the elastic shorter, longer, only to follow the shoulder seam.  Yep, it is intuitive, but if you are a beginner, you may scratch your head a few times trying to figure out where the piece to measure the elastic is! 

<b>What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?</b> 
I really love the '80's feel of this top.  It is so very comfortable and with today's knits, a breeze to whip up!  There are a lot of pleats (28 in all), so if you really hate making pleats, avoid this pattern!  Having said that, the pleats all lined up really well, and all the notches fit together really well. 
I really don't like putting facings in knits, so read below to see how I handled that. 
 
<b>Fabric Used:</b>
This is a pretty funky ITY jersey print from Gorgeous Fabrics.  It has so many neutrals in it along with the pop of yellow that I simply love it.  It was a dream to sew with as well! 

<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
Honestly, I didn't make many.  I hate putting facings in knits, so I cut a 2" bias strip and sewed it to the neckline, so I could eliminate the facing all together.  Next, I turned it and topstitched 1/16" from the edge.  It lays nice and flat, so it was a good choice for me.  The only other review of this dress mentioned the facings rolled to the outside, so now that problem is eliminated as well. 
I didn't lengthen the dress at all, despite it being desperately short, so I will wear it with leggings.  I work as an instructional coach in preschool classrooms, so I am up and down off the floor or very small chairs a good part of my day, so this will eliminate showing off any goods I don't intend to!  :) 
I really didn't like the belt as shown, so here was my solution: I cut one instead of two pieces, folded it in half, and stitched.  The small opening I left for turning I closed with steam-a-seam.  I didn't put the thread loops at the side.  I didn't think I'd need them. 

<b>Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?</b>
You know, this 'dress' is pretty unique, so I am not sure I will so it again, but I do highly recommend it to others.  If you really want a retro-feel, you could add some shoulder pads! 

<b>Conclusion: </b>
I enjoyed making this dress.  It went together well, is very comfortable, is loose fitting enough on top to accommodate the 'girls' and could be dressy or casual depending on your fabric choice. 

Thanks for reading! 
Sue :) 

After looking at these photos, I realized what a frizzy mess my hair is.  Just so you can see what our weather is like, I included a short video of the snow!  For those of you with naturally curly hair, you completely understand!