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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Sunday, October 14, 2018

Sewing with Leather: The StyleArc Lorie jacket

I've made this pattern numerous times and since they are all a bit different, I knew I had to try this same style in a completely different fabric choice: leather!  If you are wondering, here's what the pattern looks like: 
Image result for images StyleArc lorie jacket

And here are some previous makes from this pattern: 

Image result for images StyleArc lorie jacket


Related image

This pattern is simply fun to make!  

I've taken some fitting classes since I made these two jackets and I put my skills to work!  I also knew the leather would have zero forgiveness so fit from the start is so important!  To simply this make a bit, as you can see I eliminated the frayed trim and the zipper.  I never, ever zip a jacket such as this and didn't want to wrestle with it to insert a zipper I'd never use.


Sorry about the indoor photos on a rustic wall project that's nearly done, but it snowed about 5 inches today and was cold, damp, and windy.  Not the best or most pleasant place to take photos!  



What I did differently based on my measurements and comparing the fit to my other two jackets was the following: 
I lengthened the bust curve by 1"
I added 1" for a broad shoulder adjustment
I added 1" to the mid back length to match the adjustment to the front bust curve area


Based on previous results with this pattern, I decreased the shape of the shoulder area of the sleeve by 1/2".  I consider myself a master at easing sleeves into the shoulder area, but with this pattern is simply isn't possible.  


It's a little tough to see, but for my facings, I used light blue denim.  You can see that in pictures below.


Leather isn't forgiving at all, so if you make a mistake, you have to live with it as needle holes are permanent.  I had a few super tiny mistakes that I won't show you! 


Now that I've tackled this jacket in leather, I have a few other leather garments I really want to make!


Not the best photo in the world, but you can see the light blue leather for the facings.  I also used a designer lining from Fabric Mart.  It was Mark Jacobs (I believe) and it is luscious!  Glad I picked up 10 yards of it!  

Thanks so much for reading!
Sue  



Saturday, October 13, 2018

Bibs for me! Simplicity 8641

I have been checking out all these cute bibs everyone is making and finally decided to give the skirted version a try.  Here's the pattern I used: 

Image result for images Simplicity 8641

How cute is this?  I was worried that (A): I am too old to pull this off and (B): How much will I have to adjust this in the bust area to get it to fit?  





I made a ton of flat pattern measurements using Designer Joi's methods that I learned about last summer.  During the fitting process, I realized that as long as the bib portion sat where it needed to, this would fit fine.  I even made sure I had enough fabric to cut another bib section, if needed.
  

This is an easy to put together and well drafted pattern.  I made view A and found the length to be perfect!!!  Straps were easy to sew--although a note on those!  I did widen them on the portion that attaches to the bib.  They got super skinny and I found that difficult to turn.  For me it was easier to widen the strap and adjust the area on the bib where they attach.  



I really love this fabric I used.  It is a twill weave suiting from Fabric Mart.  It drapes beautifully, is so comfortable and easy to work with.  There's a bit of stretch on the cross grain so of course it doesn't bind at all when wearing.  



I did decide to line the pockets with a fun dinosaur print from my stash.  Why not?  


I recommend this pattern and now that I feel like I can pull it off, I am going to create the pants version that everyone is rocking these days!


Thanks for reading!  I love hearing your comments about what you are sewing!
Sue 

Saturday, September 22, 2018

This time, its the Kobe dress!

 Here's the dress pattern I couldn't stop thinking about!  This is the Kobe Dress by Papercut Patterns.  I recently made the top and just love it so I knew the dress would be soon to follow. 


I used an embroidered chiffon by Telio.  I knew from making the top that the fabric had to be light and floaty.  This Telio fabric did the trick!  I love how unusual it is.


And here is the showstopper part of the dress...the back!


See what I mean?  That drape is unbelievable!


This is a closer view.  You can see the bias tape made from the fabric I used to finish off the front and back neckline.


You can see my bra level as well.  I raised the back neckline by about 1 inch so I wouldn't expose my bra to the world.  I was also concerned this fabric may stretch a bit out of shape so I used black SewkeysE tape.  It worked like a charm!


Here's the dress without the belt.  I will wear this belted as I believe it looks better on me belted.


I love a lot about this dress!  It's so floaty and this fabric is cool!  



Thanks for reading!
Sue

Friday, September 14, 2018

Kobe top and dress pattern.  Another winning pattern style from a fabulous indy company outside of the US called Papercut Patterns.  These are fabulous!  The drafting is excellent and the styles are fresh and CUTE!  

Check out the back of this dress: 

Related image 
How gorgeous is that?  Here is the image of the line drawing as well.  What is deceiving about this pattern is the gorgeous image above.  It looks all cinched at the waist, right?  Well that's due to the thin belt she's wearing to hold all that volume in.  

Image result for Images Kobe sewing pattern

And, this dress is made from a sheer fabric so it appears you get the cute little slip dress pattern as well.  Well you don't and Papercut doesn't say mention it in the description.  They even have a disclaimer on their site stating this.  It is so important to read the pattern description.  I knew it wouldn't be included.  


So fitting...I used Designer Joi's method and am very happy with the results.  However, this pattern doesn't have the apex marked so what do you do?  I googled it and here's a link I found: 


I thought this method worked perfectly!  



With a boxy garment such as this, it is important it doesn't look sloppy.  For me, that means it fits through the shoulders, and front/back necklines.  You may have other preferences, but that's what I like.  



I've had this fabric in my stash for a while and I believe it is a challis.  It has lovely drape and feels so awesome on your skin.  



I do believe it is a poly blend, not a pure poly and definitely not a silk or cotton. 



 I know, I use a lot of white, black, and beige, but they are so easy to work with!  



I will be making the dress.  


I added self-bias binding to the back hemline as this fabric is so floaty and I wanted to keep it in place.


What I didn't think about is that the back is so much longer than the front so naturally it will be heavier in the back.  


I am proud of the bias binding on the front and back.  Look at how nice it looks!


I used a covered button on the back overlap.  I also raised the back neckline as in my muslin, my bra showed and I don't care how cute your bra is or how nice your back-skin is, having your bra back show isn't a good look.

So I love my new top!  I think I will enjoy it with black skinny jeans as much as I like it with my white skinny jeans.

Thanks for reading and stopping by!
Sue











Sunday, September 9, 2018

Fall sewing with McCall's 7381

It took me a while to jump on the maxi bandwagon, but now that I'm there, I simply don't want to jump off.  Maxis are so comfortable!  While I usually make knit ones, this time I made one in this amazing peachskin fabric from Fabric Mart.  This fabric was from a famous dress designer and it sold out quickly!  I love the colors. 


See what I mean?  These colors are so lovely for cooler months!  
Actually, these colors are lovely all the time.


Here is the pattern I used: Image result for Images McCalls 7381
This pattern is designed as a pullover dress that's loose-fitting, with a lined bodice, shoulder pleats, raised front waist, front pleating, and elasticized back waist narrow hem and front snap closing.  There are length and sleeve variations.  


As you can see, I made the maxi version with the sleeves of C, and left off the front tie.  


I still need to polish the fit on this.  I did make a muslin and I have those movement lines on the side bodice that I couldn't get rid of.


I added buttons to the center front wrap portion and actually, this has enough ease that you don't need to snaps at all.  


This dress is LONG!  For reference, I am 5'7" and I took this up 2 inches instead of the recommended 5/8".  I plan on wearing heels with this.  


Another modification I made was to eliminate the bodice lining.  I created 2" wide bias bands, attached them, and then folded to the inside and topstitched down.


I plan on wearing this a lot!  Thanks for reading!
Sue

Wednesday, August 15, 2018

Playing with Percale and fall colors!

Don't know about you, but this time of year, I like to start thinking about sewing some garments for fall.  I love the colors of fall, the browns, oranges, greens, and purples.


I found this brown, floral percale on Fabric Mart's site and wanted to try it for a garment. I knew it would have somewhat of a crisp hand and I was ready for the challenge of finding the right pattern to use.  


After opening the package, I found this fabric has a very crisp hand, and would be perfect for a pair of cropped pants.  Back in my day, these were called gauchos.  Anyone else remember that phase?  



Here is the pattern I used, if you are interested! 
Image result for Images Simplicity 8175

 I instantly fell in love with the skirt but then those cute cropped pants caught my eye...

This fabric was a great choice for this pant as it holds its shape, is crisp, and is comfortable.


I only made a few modifications, the most noticeable was to lengthen the tie.  And honestly, when I cut these out, I cut added to the seam allowances so I could pin-fit these.  I took all sorts of crazy measurements and compared them to the pattern tissue.  I was so very surprised I wouldn't need to do much to these to get them to fit.


Basically, I added belt loops for the tie belt, I added staytape to the pocket seams and adjusted the darts slightly.  That's it!  These fit that well straight from the tissue.  I cut off the extra seam allowances.

Let's talk about my bright green top for a moment.  This is some of FM's linen, this is the avocado green.  I had just enough left in my stash from a previous project to make a fun top to go with these wild, floral pants.


I modified this pattern, by leaving off the flange of the sleeve.  Here's the pattern: 
Image result for Images Simplicity 8642

I made view A with the flange and thought: ugh.  That flange in a linen didn't drape like I thought it should.  A simple fix of removing the flange saved the day!


I love how these fabrics go together!  I also love the split sleeve with the tie!  I just happened to have a necklace and shoes that I like with this.  See, I tell my hubby, compulsive shopping pays off!  ;)  



I hope you are all enjoying summer and creating some great makes!
Thanks for reading!
Sue