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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Issey Miyake Coat--Vogue 1320

Oh, the joy of a well-made winter coat!  I just finished this today, just in time for winter and can't wait to wear it. 

Here is my version of the Issey Miyake coat. 

Semi-fitted, lined coat has rolled collar, yokes, side panels, no shoulder or side seams, side front pockets and two-piece (bias upper) sleeves. 

This pattern is rated as 'easy' by Vogue.  While it isn't hard, it certainly isn't easy.  I believe you need to have some basic sewing skills along with some patience for hand sewing if you are going to create a coat worthy of wearing out in public. 

Fabric Recommendations: Novelty Woolens, Mohair, Fleece.  You also need four 1" buttons.  I used a 100% wool coating fabric from Fabric Mart.  The lining was also purchased a Fabric Mart and I wanted something fun and funky on the inside of my coat.  Hair canvas is needed for the interfacing and that was purchased from Fashion Sewing supplies.  I love her fusible interfacing so much that I figured the sew in kind would be just as awesome and it was!  I purchased everything last spring when I was ready to burn my RTW coat I purchased last winter.  It was already falling apart at that time--a mere three or four months after purchase.  And, it wasn't cheap.  That is what irritates me and makes me wish I had more hours in the day to create all my own clothing. 

Instructions: They were great, except for what others mentioned as the pattern layout doesn't mention all the pieces you need for the lining.  Look at the diagram not the pieces listed.  Everything is clearly explained, all the notches and such line up.  This seems to be a well-drafted pattern. 

I made my usual 1/2" sway back adjustment and it was my only alteration.  If I were to make this again, I would add a little more ease into the bottom portion of the lining.  It is a snug fit to get it to not only lay flat but not be strained along the hemline. 

I love that this coat is semi-fitted.  It is refreshing to have a coat that fits rather than swim in it. 
Other reviewers mentioned lengthening the sleeves, but I found them just right.
I would really like to try this in another fabric such as the hounds tooth.  It gives it just the right funky edge.  Don't try to make this coat a size bigger than you normally wear, it won't look right if it is too big through the shoulders and armholes.
Oh my, did I mention the pockets?  They are deep and roomy and your entire hand fits inside.
You really need to clip and trim the sleeves carefully.  The directions don't have you topstitch to keep seams in place, so careful construction and pressing is essential.  My sewing room has smelt like a wet dog for days while constructing this coat!  But it was worth it!
I do like the rolled collar.  With the wool it rolled so nice and seems like it will be warm.    

A fun coat for winter that is stylish and a great length.  If you are up for quite a bit of hand sewing, then this is the coat for you!  I spent as long on the hand work as I did putting the coat together.

Thanks for reading!  I love my new coat!


Sunday, November 17, 2013

McCall's 5759 Misses Jacket

I love my new jacket!  Here is my review:

Misses' lined jackets and belt: Semi-fitted jacket with princess seams, flaps, front band and two-piece sleeves; jacket A has standing collar, jackets B, C have collar with collar band; jacket C has belt with buckle; button closing. I made view B. 

Suggested fabrics for the jacket are Gaberdine, Medium weight linen, denim, tweed, wool, wool blends along with lining fabrics.  I used 100% wool tweed I've had in my stash forever and chocolate brown lining that was also from my stash.

How did your finished garment turn out?
I love it, I think the fabric I luckily had was perfect for this.  It looks just like the pattern envelope sans the pocket flaps which are useless by the way.

I had no issues with the directions.  The order of construction was very logical, the pictures adequate and all the notches match up perfectly.  This is not a pattern for beginners.  You will want some sewing experience before you dive into a more tailored-looking jacket such as this.

I love the overall shape and the lovely collar.
The front bands add a unique front shape to the jacket and the slot button holes were fun!  I've never done those before and I am a huge fan!
There is a lot of ease in the sleeve cap but in the wool went beautifully.  My lining fabric doesn't look quite as nice as the wool, but since I am the only one that knows about that, I'll just keep that my secret.  
My only dislike is that the jacket doesn't have pockets.  Next time, I will add welt pockets to the front with the flap so there are more than decorative.

I made my usual 1/2" sway back adjustment on just the back piece by wedging out at the center and tapering to the side back seams.  I ended up slightly stretching the back pieces 2 inches above and below the waistline so the hem would lie evenly around the bottom.  What I love about wool is that you can coax it into a variety of shapes and it stays put!
The only alteration I made was to make a FBA.  I did this by finding another coat/jacket pattern that had cup sizes.  I took the C-cup pattern piece, laid it on top of this pattern, and redrew the lines.  It worked beautifully and my fits pretty well through the bust.
Since I plan to wear this as a jacket over other clothing, I am okay with the sleeves as long as they are.  I am 5'7" so if you are shorter or have shorter arms, you may want to measure prior to cutting this jacket out.  

I have had this pattern forever and when another review on sewing pattern reviews recently posted her version, I gasped and ran for my pattern and fabric stash!  I really love this jacket.  I've pulled the pattern out many times but just hadn't taken the time to create it.  It really didn't take that long to put together and sometimes a project that requries precise sewing, pinning, etc, is worth the effort! 

Thanks for reading!

Saturday, November 9, 2013

Jalie Twist Top

Another love from Jalie.

How cute is this top?  I am on a Jalie kick lately and this is my latest.

Pattern Description:
V-neck top with a fashionable twist along the cleavage line and tie at back neckline.  View A has three-quarter sleeve, View B has a puff sleeve and View C is sleeveless.  The pattern includes optional front flounce and modesty panel for more coverage.  The hem can be finished with a wide stretch lace trim.  Made with a more stretch fabric, this pattern is perfect and stylish for mothers-to-be.

Fabric Used:
This super cute and colorful print from Marcy Tilton.  While I love the finished result, there was quite a bit of rolling at the cut edge requiring me to wrestle with it a bit.  Thank goodness I have a great serger that helped tremendously.

Did the finished garment look like the pattern picture:
Well, yes, it does!  I am happy with my finished result.  

What did you like/dislike?
The twist is too cute.  The geometry of it makes sense and the directions for it are super easy to follow.
I love the sizing.  This is sort of a fitted top or you could make it very fitted if you are young and thin.
Dislike: No stabilization at the shoulder seam.  And wow is the neckline super low.  Glad there is an option for the modesty panel.
I really don't care for the narrow hems on the neckline.  I think it cheapens the result, or can cheapen it.  

How were the instructions:
Awesome as with all Jalie patterns all you need are the visual directions.

My usual 1/2" sway back adjustment.
I added 1/4" clear elastic to the shoulder seam to stabilize.
Omitted the ties at the shoulder although I do think they are super cute.
I added long sleeves from the Jalie cardigan I reviewed recently.  While they are longer than to my wrist, I don't mind so much  as I typically push long sleeves up anyway.

The other change I made was due to my fabric choice and has nothing to do with the pattern.  Since the cut edge rolled so very much and I detest narrow hems on necklines, I added narrow bands at the neckline, sleeves hems and lower hem.  I feel like this also helps give the top a little weight as the fabric is a little on the light side. 

I did round out the back neckline so it is more of a scoop rather than a triangle shape.  It helped with the neckband I sewed on.
I was a little perplexed at how the twist causes part of the wrong side of the neckline to show no matter how much I fiddle with it.  I thought perhaps I had done something incorrectly, but I see other reviews have had the same issue.  See below:  

To a fellow blogger: I am sorry I didn't ask permission to use your photo prior to posting. :) 

Oh yes, I highly recommend this pattern.  I can't wait to make it again in different fabrics and I'd like one with the flounce.  It is just fun, fast and really cute.   

A fast, fun and stylish top.  No wonder Jalie are so popular.  I am in love!!!