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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Issey Miyake Coat--Vogue 1320

Oh, the joy of a well-made winter coat!  I just finished this today, just in time for winter and can't wait to wear it. 

Here is my version of the Issey Miyake coat. 

Semi-fitted, lined coat has rolled collar, yokes, side panels, no shoulder or side seams, side front pockets and two-piece (bias upper) sleeves. 

This pattern is rated as 'easy' by Vogue.  While it isn't hard, it certainly isn't easy.  I believe you need to have some basic sewing skills along with some patience for hand sewing if you are going to create a coat worthy of wearing out in public. 

Fabric Recommendations: Novelty Woolens, Mohair, Fleece.  You also need four 1" buttons.  I used a 100% wool coating fabric from Fabric Mart.  The lining was also purchased a Fabric Mart and I wanted something fun and funky on the inside of my coat.  Hair canvas is needed for the interfacing and that was purchased from Fashion Sewing supplies.  I love her fusible interfacing so much that I figured the sew in kind would be just as awesome and it was!  I purchased everything last spring when I was ready to burn my RTW coat I purchased last winter.  It was already falling apart at that time--a mere three or four months after purchase.  And, it wasn't cheap.  That is what irritates me and makes me wish I had more hours in the day to create all my own clothing. 

Instructions: They were great, except for what others mentioned as the pattern layout doesn't mention all the pieces you need for the lining.  Look at the diagram not the pieces listed.  Everything is clearly explained, all the notches and such line up.  This seems to be a well-drafted pattern. 

I made my usual 1/2" sway back adjustment and it was my only alteration.  If I were to make this again, I would add a little more ease into the bottom portion of the lining.  It is a snug fit to get it to not only lay flat but not be strained along the hemline. 

I love that this coat is semi-fitted.  It is refreshing to have a coat that fits rather than swim in it. 
Other reviewers mentioned lengthening the sleeves, but I found them just right.
I would really like to try this in another fabric such as the hounds tooth.  It gives it just the right funky edge.  Don't try to make this coat a size bigger than you normally wear, it won't look right if it is too big through the shoulders and armholes.
Oh my, did I mention the pockets?  They are deep and roomy and your entire hand fits inside.
You really need to clip and trim the sleeves carefully.  The directions don't have you topstitch to keep seams in place, so careful construction and pressing is essential.  My sewing room has smelt like a wet dog for days while constructing this coat!  But it was worth it!
I do like the rolled collar.  With the wool it rolled so nice and seems like it will be warm.    

A fun coat for winter that is stylish and a great length.  If you are up for quite a bit of hand sewing, then this is the coat for you!  I spent as long on the hand work as I did putting the coat together.

Thanks for reading!  I love my new coat!



  1. Very nice work! I really like your fabric choice!

  2. You have done a great job on this coat. Fits you beautifully and looks nice and warm.

  3. Love your coat! I have this pattern and had hoped to get it made for this winter, but since I'm going south for the winter - probably won't need it! Oh, well, next winter will do just fine! Like the way this is just a bit fitted, so it looks more trim on the figure!
    Good job!

    1. thank you! i think this would make a cute spring/fall coat as well made from a pretty linen.

  4. Absolutely gorgeous! Wonderful review.