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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Monday, December 9, 2013

Sewaholic Jacket Minoru

I am finally getting around to creating my own version of one of the top patterns of 2012.  It is almost 2014 for heaven's sake!  Where does the time go? 
Anyway, here is my wearable muslin for the uber popular Minoru jacket. 

And here is a description from the website:
The Minoru Jacket is a zip-front weekend jacket with a secret hood hidden inside the wide collar! If you prefer, skip the hood and let the dramatic collar be the focus. Flattering raglan sleeves are comfortable and easy-to-sew, and the elastic waistline creates a slim, curve-hugging silhouette.
No need to choose between having a hood OR a cute collar. The hood is tucked away in the wide, roomy collar, ready for when you need it, but stays hidden when you don’t! The collar looks great done up or left open. The jacket is fully lined, with interior patch pockets to stash your cards and keys safely and out of sight.
Practical and pretty!

I made view B in a size between a 14 and 16.

Fabric used: my fabric is pretty dressy, and is dry clean only so it wasn't the best choice.  The fabric is a Maggy London brocade from Fabric Mart that I purchased a while back when it was on clearance.  It wasn't the best choice for this jacket but with a few modifications, it worked.

What did I like/dislike about the pattern?
Let's state the obvious--the secret collar.  How cool is that?  I didn't use it as it didn't make sense for my fabric choice but the mechanics of it is just genius!
The inside pocket is great.
I like how the lining is attached to the coat with minimal hand sewing.  Such a relief!  
I love the overall styling.  The elastic at the waistline is very nice and adds a great more fitted touch.
Dislikes--for a jacket, I really wish there were side seam pockets.   I can't believe I am even saying that since I typically detest pockets that add bulk, but in this case, I believe they are necessary. 

I believe most of these were due to my fabric selection--just so that is clear!
Instead of gathers along the neck edge--and believe me, I tried about everything--three rows of stitching, stitching over elastic thread, I ended up making 2.5 inch darts around the neck so the collar would fit properly.  With the collar folded over, you really can't tell it isn't gathered anyway. 
I made my usual 1/2" sway back adjustment. 
I shortened the elastic at the waistline by 2 inches. 
I had to make the cuffs smaller as well--they didn't fit with the sleeve fabric so I measured and cut them to fit the sleeves. 
The stitching lines for the waistline casing was in an odd place for me.  I took it out, put the jacket on, marked where I wanted the elastic and stitched in a place that fit me better.  
I was only able to find a 28" zipper rather than the 30".  It works fine. 

How did it turn out?
I think my jacket resembles the pattern, however I did use the wrong fabric.  I will have to try this again in the proper type of fabric as it is cute, goes together well, and that collar and hood are wonderful!

I am glad I finished this jacket.  There were a few times I just about threw it out the window.  Messing with the neckline to get it to fit the collar was a struggle. 


  1. Nice jacket. Looking forward to trying this pattern myself.

  2. Gorgeous! Your fabric really makes it chic. Your collar actually looks like perfection, I'm glad you stuck with it and made it right.
    I have yet to try this pattern, too many urgent things stacked in front of it.