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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Sunday, August 13, 2017

a very fall-like dress: McCall's 7561

I scored some lovely Stof knits the last time I was in Baton Rouge, visiting DD1, SIL1, and granddaughter 1.  I so love this stuff!  It is 95% cotton and 5% Lycra.  It sews like a dream!  


I knew I wanted a simple dress for fall that I could highlight with shoes, jewelry, or style.  I used McCall's 7561 as my base and added a super simple design with adding little bias strips across the chest...just for something different.  I see styles like this all over the place.  

Here is my base pattern: 

Image result for images McCall's 7561'
I used the neckline of C, the sleeves of D, and the length of A & B.  



See what I mean about the shoes and jewelry?  I love these shoes! Super simple and minimal jewelry.  


So lets talk a minute about the neckline.  All I did was turn the neckline under 1/4" and secured it with fusible knit stay tape by Emma Seabrook.  Her company is called Seweyekeys.  Truly this is the best stuff in the world.  For the neckline, as I said I used 1/4" and for the sleeves and lower hem I used 1/2" tape from her as well.  


So, back to the self-fabric tubes I made.  I just cut two strips about 1 1/4" wide with my rotary cutter and a straight ruler.  After cutting, I sewed these on my serger, turned them, and pressed lightly.  Next I just played with the position and length until there was no pulling on the neckline.  It really didn't take very long to get this right.  Before stitching down, I measured both to make sure everything was symmetrical and after a very minor adjustment, I sewed these down.  


Here is the stitch I like to use on my regular sewing machine.  It is for stretch fabrics and works so much better than my coverstitch.  I really should just sell that thing.


And here is an obligatory photo of the back.  I like how it fits.  

So, as you can see above, I still need a tweak or two to fix the front.  I made my usual FBA, sloping shoulder adjustment, and swayback adjustment.  Those little folds at the armpit area are either due to my needing to create a dart with this very stretchy fabric or the tubes I added.  Honestly, they were not there prior to sewing those on.  Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks for reading and I hope you are enjoying the remaining days of summer!

Sue 






Saturday, August 12, 2017

A little fall sewing--Lorie Jacket and Angela Wolf's fringe skirt

Starting late-ish summer, I like to start making some garments that will transition into fall.  When I found this boucle from Fabric Mart, I knew exactly what I was going to make--a sort of 'modern suit' for work.  


First of all, thanks to DD1 for taking the photos.  We took these in Louisiana, where it was super hot and humid that day.  


Pattern wise, I used the Style Arc Lorie jacket, one I've made before.  

Lorie Jacket Sewing Pattern By Style Arc - Designer look without the complication!

The first one I made I used the self fringe trims at the yokes and center front.  This time, I knew I wanted to highlight the fringe on the skirt, plus fringe on both would have been too much.  

Image 1

This is a cute little skirt pattern.  It is fully lined and you use self-fabric for the fringe.  Using a boucle works just great!  


I really love the lining fabric.  It is a Maggy London print, also from Fabric Mart.  I wish I would have bought an entire bolt of it as it is so fun and cheerful.


Here you can see me in process of the binding.  I used a lightweight denim I cut on the bias.  This fabric was in my stash.  I also decided to cut the front band the bias, just to add another bit of interest to the jacket.   



I really love how well the skirt fits.  I feel like this pattern runs large.  I started with a 14, per my measurements, took this in more than two inches.  Be aware of the sizing!  Before I sew in the darts on a skirt, I try it on and then pin where they should lie.  This works well for me.  


I did quite a few things to keep my sleeves hanging properly.  First, let me back up.  I interlined the front and back garment using fusible interfacing from Joanns.  For the sleeves, I did try interlining but it didn't look right as the sleeves looked stiff.  However, the sleeves were collapsing at the head so I took two layers of medium weight sew-in interfacing that was cut on the bias and attached those to the sleeve head.  This also didn't prove enough so I added another layer of hair canvas, also cut on the bias.  This was exactly what I needed. 


This skirt calls for an invisible zipper.  Don't be afraid of putting one in on a textured fabric.  Take your time, practice if necessary and then do it!


I think this fringe is super cute!  I want you to keep in mind that I am 5'7" and this length is unaltered.



The skirt is also lined with the fun print I used on the jacket lining.  



I am very happy with my new outfit!  

What's on your sewing table this time of year?
Sue :)