Sunday, January 20, 2013
Here is another Sandra Betzina pattern from Vogue up for review. Honestly, I have no idea what compelled me to create this vest. I mean look at the drawing and the fabric used in the photo? It really doesn't do this garment justice--at least in my opinion! I love the lines, but just detest the sew-on pocket in view A. I simply don't care for it.
So here is the description: Misses' vest and detachable collar: Loose-fitting, lined vest has princess seams and pining. A: pocket and flap (cut in one), front snap closing, optional lining and piping. B: contrast bias trim, bound-buttonholes and topstitching. Detachable, lined collar has band, optional button and snap, B: tucks.
This calls for upholstery fabric, quilted fabric, synthetic leather. contrast: lightweight satin, faille, broadcloth. Detachable Collar: Also low pile fake fur.
So, I made view B with the more traditional pockets. I used synthetic leather from my stash. I used a size larger for the chest and a smaller size for the waist and hips.
What did I like or dislike about the pattern?
Well, it is different from anything I own so I thought that it would be fun to create something different. I really wanted to use the synthetic leather I had so this fit the bill.
With Sandra's instructions, there is nothing to dislike. She gives many fitting hints, diagrams are clear and plentiful, and the descriptions make it easy to follow along. Instructions for the bound buttonholes were just excellent. I have made many welt pockets, but not bound buttonholes, so this was a new thing for me. Sandra's hints for this are great and I think mine turned out pretty well. :) They would be much easier and crispier looking in a typical woven fabric.
Love the pockets and the bias trim. It helps you see the design details.
Dislike: the lining and how it is attached. I had a dickens of a time with it mostly because of the way it is shaped. See for yourself: Check out step 57. That is where the problem lied for me!
It took tremendous amounts of coaxing and easing to get it to lay properly. After struggling for a while, when I went to insert the lining into the vest I found it wasn't big enough. I had to add a three-inch wedge from bottom to top to get it to lie properly. I still think I may have to add a little more as there seems to be pulling at the armscye. Despite using my usual size for Sandra's patterns, I took this vest in about two additional inches on each side. Typically that isn't necessary for me.
Design elements I altered:
My usual 1/2 in sway-back adjustment. I really think I could have taken more in with this vest but didn't want it too small.
I decided to use two different buttons on the front. The buttons came as a set of three on one card but the smallest one was way to small.
What you can't see is the fourth button which matches the triangular one on top.
Make a muslin so you can decide if you like the fit or not. Next time, if there is a next time, I will lower the pocket opening somewhat. I am 5'7" and feel that they are a little high on me.
If I would have had more bias in the contrasting fabric I used for the faux piping, I would have used that to finish off the edges inside the vest and ditched the lining all together. If you wear this open, you will want something cute on the inside or a similar colored lining fabric.
I will most likely wear this with a white long-sleeved t-shirt, black leggings, and boots. It really is comfortable and the length is great!
Jury is still out for me on this one. DH loves it. :)
I think it is too puckery but maybe I am being too hard on myself.
Thanks for reading!