The pattern envelope describes these pants as fitted below waistline pants has front side slant pockets, back patch pockets, fly zipper closing, back yoke, waistband, carriers, and topstitched trim.
This is a designer pattern from Issey Miyake. The fabric this designer choose is super funky and I had passed by this pattern numerous times based on the fabric selection but after having so much luck with my other pants seen here I decided to give this one a try as well.
This pattern is rated as advanced and for the jeans, it is a tad more involved than Vogue 8774 .... however with that being said the designer details are sort of fun and I like many of them.
This is actually my muslin. This fabric had a great weight, but it has some 'lines' through it which I believe to be just part of using denim. Hopefully after a few washings the lines will blend it more.
Ok, so let's talk about the construction process. There are 57 steps to these pants and a total of 13 pattern pieces. Four alone are for the front pockets! I didn't mind, but not sure all the fuss was totally worth it. Each pocket (facing and lining) is cut from something other than the main fabric yet has a piece of the main fabric so you don't know that the pockets are constructed with something else. The result is a very nice and non-bulky pocket that is also nice and deep.
The directions also have you make a binding for the fly and fly facing which I did using the pocket fabric. I like how it looks and makes the inside look neat and tidy. I would highly recommend using a very lightweight fabric for this that won't add bulk.
The fly went together really well and I think that the directions for those steps were well written and easy to follow. One thing about the fly facing, sometimes the facing is too short and doesn't cover the bottom of the zipper, well this one does! See that little fraying along the seam? When I took these apart to reconstruct them, (more on that later) I ended up serging that seam so the fraying is gone. That is one thing that bugs me about pattern directions. That seam is never finished and yet I still forget to do that at times! I was hoping that the stitching would secure the loose threads but they didn't. Even though no one but me will see it, I am much happier with those little details.
So, I made some alterations to my original garment. I tried these on several times as I was constructing but sometimes you can't see the full effect until it's all put together. (Sigh!) I just wish I hadn't done all the topstitching but I did and then had to remove it all. Luckily we had a long car trip and it gave me a lot of time to take it out. So, my alterations were to take in the yoke seam by 3/8", take in the back and front crotch seam by 3/8", and lower the back waistline by 3/8". The result is so much better, but still not perfect. I might try pattern again or revert back to my TNT.
|Before altering...pretty much unwearable--at least with a tucked in shirt!|
|After altering. I think I could have taken a little more of a swayback adjustment...|
The directions also have you use flat-felled seams and I did those prior to having to take the suckers apart but I didn't like how the denim laid so I ended up just serging and topstitching.
These are a little longer than I intended as I lengthened them by an inch and now they are too long. I'll probably have to re do the hem in the future.
All in all, these pants are fine. I like the designer details. If you typically make a sway-back adjustment, you will for sure want to do that alteration again and perhaps a little deeper than normal.
I do recommend this pattern if you want to experiment with some designer-inspired details.
Thanks for reading!!!