McCall's Jacket--first garment of 2015!

So here's to the new year!  And, here is to a new jacket which I started in 2014 but finished up and am posting about today!  I am so digging these McCall's jacket patterns!  They have so many RTW details that make them fun to create and even more fun to wear!  

I like all the views, but I was especially drawn to view C--the one with the collar--see those pleats in the collar and drawstring and cord stops?  I had to make it!  

I ordered this silk suiting from Fabric Mart and I just love the colors!  It sewed up really nice but I will say that my awesome Bernina serger, that has sewn like a champ through everything I've asked it to and begged for more, had some trouble with two layers of this fabric.  I had to sew s-l-o-w-l-y in spots and most of the time I simply finished off the edge of a single layer of fabric.  That said, I am happy with the result but will plan on making another version from a lighter weight fabric in the near future.  

  So, back to the pattern.  Here is a description from the back of the envelope: Misses' jackets: Semi-fitted lined jackets have french darts, button front, in-seam pockets, side panels. two-piece sleeves and back waist cording.  B: Contrast sides and under sleeves.  C: Pleated stand-up collar with drawstring and flaps.  What isn't added is that the sleeves all have a little vent at the seam and View C has the inseam side pockets with mock pocket flaps.  

I made a straight up size 14 but took it in quite a bit!  I just love it when that happens!  The French darts give a lot of room for the bust and I added about 1/2" to the darts and lowered the bust point about an inch.  This seemed to work well and I did this because I was (finally) smart enough to make a muslin.  Where I really took it in was the waist and hip line by about 2 inches each.  This was such a shock as I haven't actually been keeping myself away from the Christmas Cookies and hitting the treadmill/stair-master like I should be.  That's what resolutions are for, rite?  

I love how I set in the sleeves.  I didn't sew the ease stitches but pinned the crap out of it and it worked like a dream!  I love this technique that I learned from a fellow blogger, Dina.  

I lined the jacket with Olive colored lining that I purchased from Fabric Mart as well for a dollar a yard!  I love stock up sales like that!  This jacket cost less than $25!  It was so flipping cold outside that when it came to the shoulder pads, I decided to try and make my own and it worked!  Look how nice those shoulders are filled out!  

I thought long and hard about two things: the drawstring at the back waist and the closures on the front.  I was concerned that with a drawstring waist, the fabric might weirdly bunch and I didn't really want cording and stops hanging on the inside of the jacket.  My other concern was putting button holes in the heavy fabric and having them look nice.  So, I experimented with elastic at the back waist and decided it was the right way to go and I found heavy duty snaps at Hancock in a bronzy color that I could live with.  I just wish that they would have had cording and cord stops in the same bronze color!  

So, I really like my new jacket.  The collar was fun and easy to put together.  Just carefully mark the pleats, so them neatly and it will fit well with the other side.  You see just one side of the collar is pleated and it folds in half lengthwise to a non-pleated side.  There is lining that is sandwiched between the front and back half which wouldn't be necessary if you eliminated the drawstring casing. I really like that added detail at the neckline.  

For the back waist line casing, I experimented with the placement before I found a position I liked.  

My only other alteration was to make my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and that's it!  The sleeve length was perfect for my 5'7" and I really like the overall length of the jacket.  I am beginning to realize the only time I need to worry about length of garments is when I make pants.  

This is a fun pattern with some awesome RTW details.  Pick the right fabric and you'll love it!  I plan on making more of these as there are so many possibilities with fabric choice, combining colors, using the collar (or not).  

Thanks for reading!

Sue