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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Wednesday, January 6, 2016

In pursuit of the perfect fitted blouse

I love fitted blouses, especially when the fit is beyond superb.  Having said that, I really like this one but I have some additional fitting to do.  But this, is a very good start!

Crispy white Jenny shirt - sewing patternFor this blouse, I used the StyleArc Jenny Shirt.  It has some very nice details!  I love the forward shoulder treatment, back yoke, placket sleeve vent, and the darts for fitting.




It also has an almost real placket for the sleeve, which I think is always a great touch.  Although, darn, I forgot to get a picture of that detail! I promise to for the next version.  


As sewists, we all know, or should know what we are getting into with StyleArc patterns when it comes to the directions.  Am I right?  

For these, I was completely disappointed and I am a HUGE fan of StyleArc!  

Here are my complaints--
How hard is it to proof read?  I know that I make errors in my blog, but I am not publishing it for anything than my own personal reflection on my sewing, not to sell a gosh-darn-thing.  In the first line of construction details, the word 'cur' is used instead of cut.  Not huge, but then again....













My other gripe is that the sleeve placket pattern doesn't match the diagram included with the instructions.  Now mind you, I've done this more than a few times so I know how to make a sleeve placket but if you had no idea, this illustration wouldn't help you in the least.  Not one tiny bit.  


Alterations?  Well, I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and that is it.  
Also, I knew this top was fitted, but I am not the slim, trim gal I was 15 years ago so I left out the back darts so I had a little breathing room.  Maybe if I hadn't eaten so many goodies for Christmas, I would have been able to put the darts in, but for now, they are out.  
I also am experimenting with the best way to complete a sloping shoulder adjustment and I read an article in the most recent Vogue Sewing that talked about this topic.  Their suggestion or technique is to scoop out the bottom of the armscye as much as you do the with the sloping shoulders.  Does that make any sense whatsoever?  
I'll take a photo next time.  I think the shoulders need a tad more work.  

I love my new top, especially with this RTW vest I've had for ever!

Thanks for reading and if you have a blouse pattern you love, would you share the pattern details with me?

Sue :)  

25 comments:

  1. The blouse looks nice but i, too, would be upset by typos and other errors. I do not have the pattern numbers at hand (going in the hospital shortly for a shoulder replacement) but my favorite blouse patterns are the vintage Evan Picone ones from the 80s, with the forward shoulder/back yoke and hidden placket down the front. I do not like regular blouse collars, so I loved that the EP patterns generally were bow blouses or had a tiny ruffle on top of a narrow mandarin collar. Since I wear only Chanel style jackets, these work best for me.

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    1. Thanks for the response Nancy! I will check out these patterns. :)

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  2. I've had success with the Sewaholic Granville pattern - I've made three long sleeve versions and I'm about to cut out some sleeveless. It's not all that different to this pattern though- the differences being bust darts instead of waist darts in front, and princess seaming at back which I found great for fitting. The instructions and the sewalong on the Sewaholic website are a bit more comprehensive than your standard Style Arc, too.

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  3. Are doing this month's David Coffin 3 shirt sewalong? http://www.shirtmakingwithdpc.com/makingshirts/2015/12/29/my-january-facebook-sew-along-a-preview/

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    1. I will check that out Heather, thank you!

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  4. Are doing this month's David Coffin 3 shirt sewalong? http://www.shirtmakingwithdpc.com/makingshirts/2015/12/29/my-january-facebook-sew-along-a-preview/

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  5. Hi Sue,
    I'm a great fan of all your sewing posts, and cannot understand how you get so many garments sewn!!
    So thanks for all your postings.
    I was interested in your sloping shoulder comments, because I too have that problem, and have made the adjustment you are referring to.....it is sometimes a real pain because there is no formula, just basting in the shoulder seam and trying on, adjusting again if thats not right, etc. Because it is different with different patterns, fabrics, etc., I Never do the "scooping" on the lower armhole until I see how much I've actually had to adjust that shoulder seam. (The reason, I think, you do it is if you take away from the top of the shoulder, you need to give back so the sleeve will actually fit).

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    1. Thanks Mary! Let's keep talking about this shoulder adjustment!

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    2. If you think of the shoulder seams and the armholes as one connected shape, then it's maybe easier to picture how changing the angle of the shoulder necessarily lowers the armhole, just because it's connected to it and you don't want it to change, too… (I think it is, anyway:)

      I do my shoulder adjustments very much the same way Wendy describes below, EXCEPT that I don't want to go back and restore the original side-seam length afterwards; that just lowers the hem or changes its shape. If you shoulders are lower than the pattern, then you need shorter side seams, all else being equal. What you DON'T need are shorter armholes:)

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    3. Thank you David, I've never thought of the shoulder seam this way and will give this careful thought!

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  6. Nice shirt Sue. I have wondered what this Style Arc pattern would be like and you have now satisfied my curiosity. I have been tempted by Sewaholic's Granville too, but have yet to try it.

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    1. Thanks Jean for your comment--I have yet to to try the Granville but think it is a must!

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  7. Love your blouse, and I just read your post on your coat,fabulous! the center back seam does indeed give you a pace for shaping and the vehicle line is slenderizing not that you need it but I do :O) I love the photos of the work, thank you for inspiring us to do more!

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    1. Thank you for your kind words snow! I really appreciate it!

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  8. Cute, flattering blouse! Nice cheerful fabric, too! Inspiring!

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  9. Sloping shoulder adjustment isn't really hard. 1. Trace the original armhole on a piece of paper 2. Redraw the shoulder line on your pattern 3. Lay the traced armhole over the pattern, placing the shoulder point of the tracing at the redrawn lowered shoulder point and the underarm point along the side seam a little below the original one, and redraw; 4. redraw the side seam using the original pattern, so the side seam is the original length. Do the same thing front and back.

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  10. If Style Arc want a proofreader, I'm an editor who also knows a bit about sewing. I have reasonable rates and a fast turnaround time too :-)

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  11. She I absolutely love your posts. The turnaround time of your sewing garnets is phenomenal. You are an inspiration to all that sew. Just thought I would share!

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  12. I think you're off to a great start on your quest for a fitted blouse, and like so many others above, I am awed by your speed (and the quality of the things you make at that speed)! I share your feelings about typos, too--it makes you wonder how many sets of eyes *really* look at the instructions before they're published, doesn't it?!?
    -Abbey

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