I like making pants, it is a challenge and sometimes I feel like tops and dresses are sort of a fitting cop-out. Know what I mean? There are so many things to consider when fitting pants: crotch depth and length, rise, inseam, any sort of swayback adjustment, pulling in any areas, waist-to-hips ratio, the dreaded fly, need I go on?
So back to my creation that was sorely missing in my closet--a khaki colored pair of pants with jean styling I could wear to work.
I was very happy with my last pair which you can see below and I tried to tweak further but I am just not totally satisfied and yes, you guessed it! I'll be making more.
So, how did I do all this?
1. Flatness--I had a suggestion to create a deeper crotch curve to help take care of the pooling I get at the upper thigh. I'm not so happy with how this made my current pair fit! I wish I would have tried to fold out a 1/2" at the upper back thighs as I have read on line. I guess I see another pair of my pants in my near future!
Because of the flatness, I had to rotate the back inseam to the front by 3/8" to get the inseams and outer seams to hang properly.
I don't even want to show you this next picture as I feel like I need to immediately do 1,000 lunges to perk up my derriere!
I added rivets to dress them up just a bit as they are plain, khaki pants after all! The rivets were super easy to add. I have a Awl that I use to punch the holes in the fabric and then a kit from Hancock's I used to set the rivets. They do give just a hint of something, right?
Another thing I did was to make a swayback adjustment. I completed that by 14" in the yoke and another 1/4" at the waistband. I like spreading the adjustment out as I think it looks better and feels better when you wear the pants!
Wide upper thighs--pretty self explanatory, right?
Crotch curve issues....ah, the crotch curve! I get these annoying little lines at the front crotch that I pinched out and took about an inch seamline. No more lines!
Back crotch curve was a different matter. With that seamline I made a 'j' seam by taking in an additional 5/8" from the back seamline which you can see below. Although I did create an even deeper seamline than what is pictured! I scooped out another 1/2".
Length is a challenge for me with this pattern. Being only 5'7", I didn't think I would need to lengthen them but I did by about 1.5".
Any suggestions for me with this pattern? I feel like getting the 'perfect' fit is a challenge that I must master!
Thanks for reading!