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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Another pair of Vogue pants!

So, you haven't seen me make a pair of pants for a while and I decided it had been too long since I pulled out my beloved Vogue 8774.  I can't express how much I LOVE this pattern!  While this is my fifth?  Sixth? time I've made these, I still need to make some tweaks until I feel like I have mastered the fit of these awesome pants!  



I like making pants, it is a challenge and sometimes I feel like tops and dresses are sort of a fitting cop-out. Know what I mean?  There are so many things to consider when fitting pants: crotch depth and length, rise, inseam, any sort of swayback adjustment, pulling in any areas, waist-to-hips ratio, the dreaded fly, need I go on? 
  



So back to my creation that was sorely missing in my closet--a khaki colored pair of pants with jean styling I could wear to work.   


I was very happy with my last pair which you can see below and I tried to tweak further but I am just not totally satisfied and yes, you guessed it!  I'll be making more.  







So, how did I do all this? 
1.  Flatness--I had a suggestion to create a deeper crotch curve to help take care of the pooling I get at the upper thigh.  I'm not so happy with how this made my current pair fit!  I wish I would have tried to fold out a 1/2" at the upper back thighs as I have read on line.  I guess I see another pair of my pants in my near future!   
Because of the flatness, I had to rotate the back inseam to the front by 3/8" to get the inseams and outer seams to hang properly.  



 I don't even want to show you this next picture as I feel like I need to immediately do 1,000 lunges to perk up my derriere!  



I added rivets to dress them up just a bit as they are plain, khaki pants after all!  The rivets were super easy to add.  I have a Awl that I use to punch the holes in the fabric and then a kit from Hancock's I used to set the rivets.  They do give just a hint of something, right?  





Another thing I did was to make a swayback adjustment.  I completed that by 14" in the yoke and another 1/4" at the waistband.  I like spreading the adjustment out as I think it looks better and feels better when you wear the pants!


Wide upper thighs--pretty self explanatory, right? 
Crotch curve issues....ah, the crotch curve!  I get these annoying little lines at the front crotch that I pinched out and took about an inch seamline.  No more lines!
Back crotch curve was a different matter.  With that seamline I made a 'j' seam by taking in an additional 5/8" from the back seamline which you can see below.  Although I did create an even deeper seamline than what is pictured!  I scooped out another 1/2".   



Length is a challenge for me with this pattern.  Being only 5'7", I didn't think I would need to lengthen them but I did by about 1.5". 


Any suggestions for me with this pattern?  I feel like getting the 'perfect' fit is a challenge that I must master!  

Thanks for reading!
Sue :)  

6 comments:

  1. You have a real winner with this pattern Sue. I wish I had your pants making skills.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Jean margaret! You are to kind!

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  2. So nice! I dId the fisheye dart on a pant leg before and it worked nicely. But I kind of overfitted them.

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  3. I need to try that fish eye dart! It is a toss up between fitting and over fitting!

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