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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Thursday, June 21, 2012

McCalls 6564

This is a McCalls semi-fitted wrap top.  There are four versions, all of which are sleeve variations.  The main top front extends into the standing back collar.  There are front pleats, inside ties, gathered, attached ties and narrow hem.  A, C have a purchased buckle and View D has sleeves gathered into bands.  I made view B. 

Here is a picture from the pattern envelope.  Pattern Envelope

This is a multi-sized pattern.  Based on my measurements, I cut a 16 but graded it down to a 14. When I purchase Ready to Wear, I purchase a medium top or a size 8, 10, depending on the cut.  I think this fits just right--enough room to move my arms, not tight across the back, etc.

I used 100% linen I purchased on-line from Fabric Mart.  It was on sale, and I love the print!  I debated what to create with this fabric and when I saw the pattern, I knew this was just right. 

What did I like, dislike about the pattern? 
I think it runs a little roomy, be sure to test fit before you sew your final seams.  The pattern is well-drafted and so easy to follow along, especially if you are a beginner!  The instructions include finishing off for seams, which is something I love and lets you achieve a professional looking result--at least I think so. 

Alterations, pattern changes:
I changed just a couple of things.  First was to do a sway back adjustment.  With this pattern, I was able to fold out a wedge in the middle back and taper to nothing at the side seams.  Also, as I mentioned before, this top was roomy!  I took in each side seam a lot, probably about 2 to 3 inches.  That meant that my sleeve didn't ease as nicely into the cap as I would have liked so I mimicked the pleat on the front collar and put that on the sleeve.  I like the result.  Had I taken in the sleeve in proportion to the sides, I believe I would not have been able to raise my arms over my head!  The only other thing I did was to top stitch along the neck line as I was concerned my fabric may roll to the outside a bit.  I used a darker purple thread that is part of the color palette of the fabric and am pleased with the result.  I seem to get on these color jags--the last dress I made also had purple in it! 

This pattern calls for polished cotton, batiste, challis, and crepe de chine.  My fabric was a little firmer than any of those, but I still like the crispness of the fabric.  I do believe the linen will eventually soften as I wash it more and more. 

I would recommend this pattern to others.  If you are using expensive fabric or a much-loved fabric, make a simple muslin first.  The fit runs a little big.  I know the pattern envelope says semi-fitted, but I literally swam in this top and felt frumpy. 

This top whips up quickly and would look great in a multitude of fabrics. 
I am just not sure what to do with the under lap of the bodice you can see when I wear this.  Let me try to explain this way: you can see the right or bodice that under wraps when I wear the top.  Despite how much I fiddle with the inside ties, it still shows.  Is this just a hazard of wrap tops?  Any suggestions? 
Thanks for reading!


  1. I almost bought this pattern last night- but my gap-factor fear made me stop. Yours is so tempting and pretty- I think i'll be making a trip back to grab this.

  2. Pretty top! Thank you for a very helpful post.