Today my husband asked why I am making so many jackets. I had to think about this for a moment and wondered well, why not? They are great layering pieces, take some finesse, and are actually quite fun! I found this pattern and the fabric on Craftsy as a sewing kit. I really like the lavender with the striped lining. The buttons are from Fashion Sewing Supply in a shell. I think the are a nice compliment to the fabric's color.
Back to the pattern...this is an amazing fit jacket that is lined. There are individual pattern pieces for cup sizes A, B, and C sizes. I made a 14 with a C cup. I LOVE how these amazing fit patterns fit!
The jacket can be made in two lengths. I made the longer length of view A. There are some excellent pro tips included in the directions which give you some fantastic results. I included quite a few of them, but not all. The pocket flaps are just for looks. There are side seam pockets that are unique and functional! I purposely used the lining portion of the pocket and adhered that to the jacket side front so that you can see the lining when I move.
This pattern takes about average sewing skills. There is quite a bit of easing, that is if you use the larger cup sizes in the bust area and also with the collar pieces. I found a few misprints which really aren't a huge deal, although if you area beginner and haven't made a jacket prior to this one, you'd get stumped--easily and probably frustrated as well!
First error is that the easing shows up on the front piece and you are supposed to ease the front to the side front, however, if you use a larger cup size, there is no way on the planet you can make this work, and trust me, I tried! Go with your instinct and ease the side front to the front.
There is a printing error with two notches at the front lapel/neckline on the front piece and no corresponding double notch on the collar. I laid out all my remaining pattern pieces and tried to figure out why there weren't any corresponding double notches and determined this was an error. Again, not a huge deal, but could cause quite a bit of confusion.
I found the remainder of the directions adequate and helpful.
I made a few alterations which were my usual swayback adjustment, inserting 1/2" shoulder pads instead of the 1/4" (maybe I do have slightly sloping shoulders?), and to lengthen the sleeves by about 1/4"--not a big deal at all!
I think the genius in this pattern is twofold: of course the cup sizing and also the way the pleat that starts at the neckline and flows down the to almost the bust. Both are very well executed.
I love this jacket in the cotton with the striped lining. While the cotton makes this more casual, I can also see this in a wool, gabardine, or other nice fabric that has some body.
Thanks for reading! I'd love to hear what kind of garments have been are your sewing table lately. Are you like me and sew a lot of the same?