Here is my latest creation, a cute little Marcy Tilton jacket.
The pattern envelope describes the jacket like this: Semi-fitted, unlined jackets, A, B, C have collar, left front extending into drape and stitched hems. A: purchased decorative hook and eye tape for closing. A, C, Right front and right collar edges may be cut on the selvage, wrong side of fabric shows on the drape. B, C: Purchased decorative zipper.
This pattern is listed as easy and for moderate stretch knits only. Sweater knits is listed as a recommended fabric and that is the main reason I choose this pattern.
I found this lightweight sweater knit in the red tag clearance bin at Joanns. I am really into knits and purple lately, so I had to have it. This is my wearable muslin. I had the purple separating zipper in my stash and was happy it was the right color of purple! I shrunk the sweater knit by washing it and drying it prior to cutting out. Now that I have done that, this finished garment will receive a cold water wash and air drying.
Alterations I made to the garment was only my usual 1/2 inch swayback adjustment. The directions call for 1 inch wide interfacing the length of the shoulder seam to stabilize. I prefer using 1/4 to 3/8 inch clear elastic sewn into the shoulder seam. Ready to wear is usually finished off with elastic and I think it is easier than ironing in interfacing.
I am sure it doesn't help the way I have my arms back and my hands in my pockets!
Instructions are well-written and easy to follow. Depending on your fabric, do take the extra few minutes to hand baste the zipper. I had not previously sewn on a sweater knit and this proved very helpful to get it to lie smoothly. The first two times I tried to sew the zipper in, I didn't baste and it took me longer than necessary to get a good final finish.
A modification I made was to hand baste purple seam binding on the left inside of the jacket, just opposite of where the zipper is sewn in. March has you construct a facing, however I just didn't like how it lied with the knit I used. I trimmed that facing close to the seaming for the zipper and then simply inserted the bias tape. I do like the extra punch of purple it gives.
I also used narrow strips of fusible interfacing that I ironed to the hems prior to stitching. That little extra step helped the hemming to be completed easily and quickly.
I will most likely make this again. The exposed zipper is a fun touch. I think it would work in a lightweight stretch woven in a fun color. If I can find hook and eye tape, I would like to try that as well!
Have fun with this one!