A New Winter Coat, Butterick 5685

Hi all,

I made a new coat because where I live, it's cold and can be cold for a long time--like 5 or so months.  Ridiculous, right?  So, to make it less brutal, I make winter coats so I have choices when I put on a coat to brave the cold.  

I finally used the beautiful wool/cashmere blend from Mood that I purchased about 2 years ago. 

I was pretty adamant I needed to use a somewhat classic design so this coat is 'in style' for years to come.

When I fit this to me, I intentionally made the shoulders just a bit wider in the back to accommodate being able to bend, lift, carry, twist, and drive a car if needed.  

I've had this pattern forever.  Here it is for you to see: 

I'd say mine fits just like the line drawing shows.

I knew I wanted to use a fun lining and this fabric is from Fabric.com.  It's a Telio brand rayon and it is just as luscious as the wool/cashmere!

Why make a coat with a boring lining?  Am I right? 

Buttons are from my stash.  

Thanks for reading!

I hope you are enjoying the weather where ever you live.  If you have a favorite cold weather coat pattern, would you please share?  I am always looking for coat patterns that are unique, classic, or just fun.

Sue 

The Grace Transeasonal Coat

I've finally made the Grace Trans-Seasonal Coat for the winter.  This is a StyleArc pattern, and you all know, I am a big fan! Here's a description: 

This is an easy-to sew, unlined coat with a fabulous collar--wear it up hugging the neck or open to give a more casual look.  Great deep buttoned pockets that are able to carry all that you need. Interesting seam treatment along with bound edges gives this coat a unique look.  

The Grace coat is a fashionable over coat and will become one of your favorites.  

I made this with a wool melton I ordered from Fabricdotcom.  I just love the color and the feel of this wool.  It doesn't ravel at all.  

I decided to add a lining to this coat to make it a bit warmer and I just love adding fun linings to my coat.  Why be boring when you can be bold?  Since the pattern didn't come with lining or instructions to line this, I drafted my own.  It isn't hard and there are so many tutorials online, you can find one that's easy to do.

The lining is a rayon by Telio found at fabricdotcom.  Again, I am a huge Telio fan and wow is this fabric not only pretty but I love how the color compliments the olive wool.

And, since I added the lining, I decided to add another touch and that was to the piping between the facing and lining.  I made my own (naturally) and love the custom touch! 

The buttons, which I really like, are from Hobby Lobby.  Right now, that's the only place in Sioux Falls I can get buttons for garments.  I've really got to stock up on things like buttons, zips, etc.  You never know when you'll need something and no one locally carries it. 

Would you look at my welt pockets?  I decided to add that little 'lip' at the top edge to give this a bit more oomph.  I love it!

You can't see it, but I also idd double rows of topstitching on the major seams.  

This coat is very oversized.  Based on the modifications I made, this is a size down from my typical SA pattern use.  I think it's pleasantly oversized but not so much so.

Can I have you check out how deep those pockets are?  My entire hand, up to the wrist, fits well inside.  

Plus, that collar!  You can flip it up and I added the buttons at the neckline.  If HL had two more of the buttons, I would have added them to the flaps on the welt pockets.  Dang.  I'll have to see if I can get more online. 

Thanks so much for reading!  I got my new coat completed just in time for the snow!

Sue :) 

More from Pattydoo! The Nora Coat

Today, I have another Pattydoo review for you!  This time, I made this adorable 'coat'.  My muslin was made from a wool blend plaid and my final garment was made from Telio sweater knit.  

I just love the design lines on this and the fact that the hood is lined.  As with the first pattydoo pattern I tried, the drafting is exceptional.   If you are interested, a link to the pattern is below.

Pattydoo Nora coat

I chose to make my 'coats' more jacket-like with no closures and with a lighter weight fabric.  

So, here is my muslin.  I thought I had matched up the plaid on the front band area, but apparently not!  I didn't have enough fabric to recut, so I am living with it.  You can also see, my band facings are made from a solid black.  In hindsight, I should have cut the black as the piece you'd see on the right side.  

At least my plaids match across the front band area!   You'll notice too that the sleeves are a tad short.  I corrected that on my final garment.  I am hoping this fits DD2.  She's shorter than I am, so this sleeve length is hopefully perfect. 

I really like that the hood is lined on this.  It gives a very nice finish.  There are no printed directions for this and there are videos, but they are in German.  Although, you can see the steps so if you have some experience, you can simply follow along and create this with no issues.

There are also side seam pockets that are very nicely drafted.  I do believe it you lengthened the finished width by about 1/4" or so, you could catch them in the band seam and then they would't flop around at all.

Here you can see those pockets.  I did tack them down to the band at the top and bottom.

Here's my second version.  I used this blush colored Telio sweater knit.  This fabric is so amazing and lucious!  If I can sew about 10 more things without purchasing additional fabric, I am going to treat myself to a few more colors of this sweater knit.  I just love it! 

Here's the inside of the jacket.  No judgement on the sewing room please! You can see the band facing is cut in two pieces. This saves on fabric yardage for sure.

I just love the fit of this.  I lengthened the sleeves by about 2 inches.  With this knit, I did leave the pockets off as I wasn't sure how the fabric would behave with the pockets constructed per the directions. 

I really took my time with this and stabilized the front band area, the shoulders, the back neckband and of course the hemlines.

This might seem a bit weird, but I starched each cut edge prior to sewing together.  I think it made the fabric a bit easier to handle.  

I did edgestitch the facing so it wouldn't roll to the outside.  

The directions have you add a piece of bias to the back neckline, which I forgot to picture.  I highly recommend this step, especially if you are using a knit.  There's a lot of weight on that part of the garment with the two piece and layer hem.

I think I have a new layering piece this winter!

Thanks for reading!

Sue

Another pattern review for Rebecca Page...this time it's for a ladies coat.  Here's the pattern image:

Cute, right? 


From the website, the pattern is described like this:

The Stella coat is a WOW piece… Fully lined and tailored, this adventurous beginner to intermediate level pattern gives you a classically beautiful and flattering garment that can be worn as an extra warm layer or as the hero of your outfit!

Here's my description: This is a slim-fitting coat that fitted in the bust and upper torso.  It flares at the waist line to a dramatic high-low hem skirt.  It's fully lined, has optional welt pockets at the waist, an optional welt pocket at the chest, and an optional back belt.  There's a concealed button asymmetrical button closure at the front.  The lining shows.  

Here's my make: 

I used this orange sheltan wool from Fabric Mart.  I so love this color! 

The lining is from fabric.com and the maker is Telio.  It's a rayon blend and is so lovely! 

This coat has some fun details like the high-low hem and the optional pockets.  I can't imagine making a coat and NOT having pockets.  Where will your keys go?  

When I said this coat is slim fitting, I wasn't kidding.  I feel like it's a tad tight in the upper bodice.  Luckily one of my daughters lives not too far away, and I want her to try this on.  You can also see how the concealed button band lies in this heavy wool.  This probably wasn't the best fabric choice, but sometimes I just like to go big and bold.

The skirt on this is so dramatic! I really do like how the back fits on this.

That all lies really nice.

This coat was a labor of love.  It took time and I am not 100% sold on whether it's right for me.  I may make this again but will need to make some modifications to the pattern.  I felt like the sleeves were a bit small for the armscye.  I should again mention I was a pattern tester and hopefully with the final pattern they adjusted this piece.  If you decide to make this coat, check the pattern measurements and make a muslin.  You'll be glad you did!

Thanks for reading!

Sue

Another Nina Cardigan!

I love this cardigan.  It is a bit different yet it fits really nicely in the torso.  The waterfall neck edge isn't too much or too little...it is just exaggerated enough... make sense?  

Do you have any patterns that you adore the shape of?  This is one of mine yet if your search my makes of it, this is only the second.  I need to get working on this!  I pull it out over and over again yet put it back...it isn't that it is out of sight, out of mind...it's on my mind!  I just need to commit to it more often!  

I made this from a beautiful sweater knit I purchased from Emma One Sock.  Even though it is wool, it is soft, cozy, and very comfortable.  Plus, it sewed like a dream...how is that for a glowing endorsement?  

This is so easy to put together.  It is well-drafted as every StyleArc pattern I've made is.  Honestly, if you had zero distractions you could put this together in less than two hours.  Especially if you overlocked the edges at the hemlines like the pattern suggests. 

 I decided to use SewEyekeys 1/2" knit staytape on the hemlines, turned the edges and used a stretch stitch on the hemlines.  I'd show you but they are almost impossible to see with a matching thread and a somewhat marbled fabric.  

I love this pattern, I love the fabric, and I love it how it turned out.  I will wear this with the coordinating dress fabric and with other garments in my closet.  

Thanks for reading!!!!

Sue 

Simplicity 1537 am amazing fit dress :)

I am working on sewing up my precious fabrics from my stash.  Actually, I am working on sewing up any of the fabrics from my stash...it is out of control and I am trying to get it under control.  Do any of you have my problem?  Both of my daughters shamed me at Christmas time--and it was well deserved...my once very nice sewing room is a disaster.  I needed a challenge and I needed it now.  No more fabric, notion, or pattern purchases for the month of January.  I have actually extended this deadline to the end of February and perhaps March....we'll see....I am enjoying the challenge as I am somewhat competitive by nature!

So onto why you are here!  This lovely fabric is a wool from Emma One Sock purchase.  And, I've had it for at least a year....Why, Why, WHY!!!! did I wait so....long....to sew it up!!!

I used a pattern that has been in my stash for quite some time as I wanted a classic look for this dress.  I also chose this pattern to match the fabric just to hope for a perfect match.  Here is the pattern I used: 

 

  

What I love about these amazing fit patterns is that they have separate cup sizes.  They also let you determine if you are a slim, average, or curvy fit and let you cut the bottom half appropriately.  You can truly get an amazing fit if you take the time to fit the pattern.  :)  

I really like the styling of this with the dropped waistline, and the variety of sleeve and hemline lengths.  At first, I made the length of version B with the sleeve length of C.  I looked matronly.  I immediately took the sleeves off and sewed the short sleeves.  Thank goodness I had enough fabric to do this!  

I opted not to line it as it fit and hung beautifully, if it is okay to say so.  This is a wool from Emma One Sock.  Did I already mention that?  This sews up beautifully and when I have my stash to a reasonable level then I am totally going to purchase more of this in other colors!  

I hand-hemmed the sleeves and lower edges.  I inserted an invisible zipper.  Other than that, my modifications were using the c-cup and average waist and hip line.  I also made a sloping shoulder adjustment.  That's it!  

I love this pattern and plan on using it again!  

Thanks for reading!

Sue