Made by a Fabricista: Redesigning the Renfrew

I was so excited to participate in the Fabric Mart post on the summer of Tees.  I knew it would be a stretch for me as pattern hacking is something I don't do a lot of, but when I do, I am just (usually) stoked when I see the overall results.  I searched Pinterest for an idea that I could use with one of my favorite tee patterns: Sewaholic's Renfrew.  

In case you aren't familiar with the Renfrew, here is a picture of the pattern envelope.  Just think of the possibilities with this pattern!  I've made this pattern numerous times and have tweaked the fit quite a bit with an FBA, sloping shoulder adjustment, and swayback adjustment.

When I was looking at all the pins I have on Pinterest, here is the look I was hoping to recreate: 

But I wanted only to recreate the back color-blocking portion and of course use my beloved Renfrew, which doesn't have raglan sleeves.  

Here is what I did for re-drafting the back pattern piece.  

I use plain tissue paper when I copy off my pattern pieces.  It is easy to see through to copy and lightweight and I can refold it back into the pattern package easily.  

 And yes, I do lightly iron the tissue before I lay it out on the fabric to cut it out.  

Here is a closer-up of the drawing along with the reminder to add the 5/8" seam allowances, just like the rest of the pattern calls for.  

Here is what the back pieces looked like after I cut out my fabrics.  I really love the contrast of the blue perforated scuba knit and the ITY floral print.  The perforated scuba knit is from Gorgeous Fabrics and the ITY knit is from Fabric.com.  I really like the blue and white combination. 

That inverted 'V' I had made so pronounced on the pattern tissue and in the cut fabric is my less so when sewn together--this is more of the look I was going for!  Notice the topstitching along the seamlines of the neck band and the intersection of the two fabrics?  I did that to conceal the seam edges.  The neckband's seam was pressed upward into the neckband and then topstitched.  The seam long the back was pressed downward and topstitched into the lower portion of the bodice back.  

I really loved the sleeves that were in the contrasting fabric, just like the inspiration photo.

I just love using a pattern to 'hack' that you've used before, fits well, and is simple to sew.

You get a hint of some fun when you see the front but with this top, the party is mainly in the back!

I love the look of this from all angles!  

Sewing with two very different fabrics wasn't difficult at all.  Just use the right needles, notions, and take your time to think through the steps.  As I said previously, I folded the seams of the neckband to upward and topstitched to the neckband.  That way you don't see that seam on the finished garment back.  On the sleeves seams where both fabrics were the scuba knit, there were some 'holes' due to the perforations.  Since at times I would be sewing 'on air' I decided to reinforce that seam with stay tape.  It worked like a charm. I also topstitched the seam on the scuba knit only along the backside of the sleeves to not only reinforce the seams but to also help them lie flat.

I am very pleased with how my 'hack' turned out, or should I say redesign?

Do you have an redesigns of the Renfrew?  I'd love to see your version!

Thanks for reading!

Sue

Sewing with Sweater Knits

I had to make some new sweater knits and with the vibrant colors and wonderfully soft fabrics available, it is no wonder I love both of these garments!
























Both fabrics are acrylic knits with lycra.  the green, purple, black, or one on the left and made into the cardi is from Gorgeous Fabrics and was probably one of the nicest fabrics I have EVER used!  It literally feels like cashmere on your skin!

The McCall's dress fabric wasn't too bad either!  It came from Hancock's and even though it too is super colorful and the moment I laid eyes on it, I knew exactly what I would make from it.  

Both are washable and dryable.  Yahoo!

So, back to the Nina....
From the StyleArc site: This style has interesting design lines to create a slimming silhouette with a waterfall front.  The cardi is simple to sew yet creates a designer look.  

Look at how adorable those design lines are!  I love how it is longer in front and more fitted in the back.  The neckline is super cozy and hugs your body.This was so simple to put together and so unbelievably wonderful to wear!  I was truly worried I had forgotten to do something major as I was constructing it but I reviewed the directions and realized I hadn't missed a thing and look at the results!

I finally mastered using the rolled hem and ending up with a professional result--I always felt it looked like the rolled hem was an afterthought and I rarely used it on anything that would show....

One thing I love is the waterfall front.  You could put a facing on it but it would end up so heavy that you'd have to tug it down in the back all the time.  And the neckline wouldn't be nearly as flowing as it is here.  It's perfect as is.

I also cover-stitched the sleeve hems and those worked beautifully as well.  All in all, it was a great sewing day for this garment!  All the machines behaved as they should!  No times outs for bad behavior were necessary.  

Next up: McCall's 7244.  Is this dress cute or what?  At first I thought it was an ordinary dress but then I read that it was partially lined.  It also has an invisible zipper but with the fabric I used, it wasn't necessary.

I worked very hard to get a pattern to run down the middle of the dress and intersect well at the v-front and of course at the center back.  I also lengthened the sleeves so they were full-length instead of 7/8/  They are cute as drafted but living in the northern plains, you need long sleeves to stay warm from about mid-October until March or April.

You'll notice how freaking low cut this is!  I lifted the neckline's 'V' by about 2 inches and now find it appropriate for work.  It does sort of hug your chest as drafted, so that works and I may not have to wear a cami.  This was also pretty darn short--I lengthened this by about 2 inches.  I'm 5'7" and totally needed the length.  If you are taller, check before you cut your fabric.  If you are shorter, you might be okay!

For alterations, I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and also made the darts a bit bigger for an FBA.  I am very pleased with the alterations and how the dress fits.

I made my usual size 14 and did end up taking it in a bit starting at the armsyces, bust, waistline and hips.  I'd have to make this again to see if it truly runs a little large.  I find McCall's size 14 tend to fit me perfectly if I make an FBA and swayback adjustment.

What makes this dress special is the lining.  I used tricot that I've had in my stash for a while and it worked like a charm.  There are even separate pattern pieces for the lining--always a bonus in my book!  The facing, is unique as well--it is made from the main garment fabric and also interfaced. Again, that worked beautifully.
Since my cover-stitch was behaving so well, I used that on the hems and it worked like a charm!

I really love both of my new sweater knits.  While I don't need a lot more dresses right now, I can see making this in a cute print for spring.  The Nina cardi I will make again this winter and I do love the elbow-length sleeves and plan to make another for spring!
Thanks for reading!
Sue

A new dress! Oh, I love it! McCall's7092

Ever work on a garment and think it is special?

Is it the fabric, the quality of the fabric, the pattern?

Or is the perfect convergence of pattern, fit, and fabric?

Either way, I feel like I won life with this dress!

But, let's digress for just a moment...I didn't come up with the perfect pattern for this dress all by myself...

I purchased this DROP DEAD FREAKING GORGEOUS NEOPRENE FABRIC from Gorgeous Fabrics and it is BEYOND Gorgeous!

Ann, from GF, suggested this pattern for the fabric and SHE NAILED IT!  Sorry about so many caps but dang, it's perfect!!!

I used McCall's 7092, made view B as a dress with the length of C and the green contrast knit was from my stash.

I was just a bit worried as I read reviews of this pattern about how thick the bodice gets with all the layers but honestly, sew slowly and you will be just fine.  I used a size 11 Stretch needle, took my time but the entire dress took about three hours to create and I used my cover stitch to hem the sleeves and skirt.  Super easy, great results, all the fitting adjustments are built into the pattern with lines and all you need to do is follow the directions for super-de-duper results!

Also, this isn't a fabric hog like some patterns are.  I purchased two yards and have scraps left that I can't decide if I should keep or not.  When I have a pretty fabric I really love, it is hard for me to part with the scraps!

I love my new dress and can't wait to wear it!


Thanks for reading and happy sewing!
Sue

Colette Moneta round 2!

I really love the feminine look of this dress, in fact, all Colette dresses are super girly and it's nice, know what I mean?



I've already made one version of this dress, but on the cover of the latest Threads, there was such a beautiful version made with a simply divine fabric from Marcy Tilton.
         


Marcy no longer had that stunning fabric so I searched high and low and found this lovely floral from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I think it is just about as pretty!

So I made pretty much the same version this time but used the elbow length sleeves.  I hope I don't regret those sleeves this summer!

I took so precautions with the collar, to keep it from stretching out of shape.  First, I interfaced with a sheer and lightweight version from Fashion Sewing Supply.  I really love this stuff!  Next, I staystitched the seam line and then I stitched stay tape to the seam.  This might be overkill, but this fabric was pretty stretchy.  Then I stitched the undercollar to the collar.

This kept everything from shifting and shimmying across my machine.  Since I didn't line the bodice, I stitched the undercollar to the wrong side of the garment.  I flipped the collar to the right side of the bodice, edge stitched to keep it from rolling to the wrong side and viola!  No neckline hem to deal with!  You can see how it looks in the photo below.

I really like the overall fit of this dress.  It is designed with negative ease, so measure carefully what size you need.  Oh and I almost forgot that I stay taped the shoulder seams as well.  

Just for reference, I made a medium, which in the Big 4 is my typical size.  

The cross over collar detail in the back is a nice little touch.  You could eliminate this if you wanted. In fact, on Colette's site, there is a free download for more versions of the little collar so you can be as creative as you'd like with contrasting fabrics and such.  If I remember correctly, there are eight additional versions!

This dress is very comfortable and with the right knit can feel like you are wearing ultra comfortable pajamas and who doesn't want to feel like that when you are working or at an event where you need a pretty dress?

I put this dress together in about 3 hours from cutting to stitching the hemline.  It helps I had made it once before but it is such a simple to make pattern that any beginner would have great success.  Even if you are experienced, this dress is just fun to make!

It was chilly today, so I am modeling it with black leggings.  I do like it with the belt! It was also very windy so of course I am having a bad hair day! 

I used my serger on all the seams and to hem, I used steam a seam and folded the lower hem twice to create a nice, neat edge.

 One deviation from the pattern I made was to eliminate the elastic at the waistline.  Why, well, let me back up a bit.  The cover of Threads shows an ultra gathered skirt and I couldn't get my first one to look that way with the elastic I used so I just skipped that step, gathered the skirt and attached it.  It is still pretty gathered but not nearly as much as the cover.

I am thinking they made the skirt extra wide so it gathered so much.  Oh, and I almost forgot, I eliminated the side seam pockets.  In a knit dress, I don't like them at the side seam as it seems to weigh the dress down when I put my phone, lip gloss, driver's license inside.  To avoid that temptation, I don't even mess with them.

Thanks so much for reading!  What are you sewing lately?
Sue