The perfect summer dress? Vogue 9184

Oh my, I purchased this pattern as soon as it came out and it has been sitting in my stash for two years.  Two years!  What?  What was I waiting for?  Have you ever done this?  I find myself doing this too often.  

Here is the pattern.  

The design is basic, simple, and classic all at the same time.  Don't you agree?  Sometimes I get turned off on a pattern by a super simple line drawing.  I much prefer a photograph of a real garment on a real person.  

I must say, I put a lot of effort into this simple design.  I measured just about every point on my body you can measure, compared it to the tissue, made alterations, pin fit the fabric, and stitched it up.  The results, to me at least, were well worth it.

First I must say, I started with the shoulders and worked my way down.  For some reason, the shoulder area can be difficult to fit.  So many peaks and valleys!  I've suddenly realized I need more room from shoulder point to shoulder point across the back as well as apex to apex.  I'd never thought of that until I took a fit class this summer.  So helpful!

After fitting that area, I moved to the bust, mid back, waist, hips, etc.  You get it, right?

What I love about this pattern is that it fits so well in the bust area that according to DH, "Your chest isn't the first thing to enter the room."  In fact, I think it minimizes the girls.

When I began fitting the back and waist area, I've come to the conclusion that a garment isn't going to fit me well there unless I add a horizontal waist seam.  It just helps with my hollow area at my waist.  I try swayback adjustments but I still seem to get 'fabric' there.  If there's a waist seam, I can totally take care of that mess.

Of course I made my own bias tape from the garment fabric.  If you've never done that before, do try it.  Super easy.  It only takes a few minutes longer than using purchased bias tape and it's a perfect match to your garment.  What other convincing do you need?

My invisible zip turned out lovely.  Is that okay to say?  I used bright yellowish-green, a color in my fabric.  I love a well-inserted zipper.  I see I forgot to hook the eye and fabric loop for the photo.  Forgive that error!  It does line up perfectly!

This pattern needs some attention and love people.  A nice light-weight wool under a cute little jacket would be fabulous for cooler months.

Try this pattern!  I think you'll love it!

Thanks for reading!

Sue 

Dress drama! Vogue 9268

Once again, my stash is getting a bit out of hand.   I wanted a few sews that would use an entire piece of fabric I have instead of most or two-thirds of it.  This dress came to mind. 

I simply love the drama of this skirt and the neckline.  I simply had to make it. 

A dress, with this type of skirt, just make you want to twirl!

It was a bit breezy out and keeping everything in check was a bit difficult.  

I don't think my fabric has quite as much structure as the designer.  You can see on the pattern envelope how her skirt hangs at the sides.  Mine is much softer.

But I still love it.  I made just a few minor alterations. One was a swayback and the other was to add a band at the neckline.  Oh and I almost forgot that I eliminated the front and back center seams.  I think that by doing this and adding the neckband, it made the neckline higher.  Just to compare, look at the envelope, the neckline is much lower.  

This is just a luscious knit I purchased from a somewhat recent trip to Baton Rouge.  I had 3.5 yards of it, the perfect amount for this dress.  I have a wee little scrap of it left that I really need to donate.  Someone will hopefully snatch it up and make something super creative out of it with some additional fabrics.

Look how awesomely full that skirt is!  I love my new dress!  

Sue 

Vogue 8825

So....ever have a pattern for years, yes I mean years, sew it up because there are so many positive reviews and then feel slightly deflated when you were done?  Welp, that was me with this dress.  It isn't that I don't like it, I do but I am underwhelmed...



This pattern has been around for a while--it is copyrighted 2012.  Many reviewers have had success with it.  And, lets just say that if you have a slim body, it will look great!

See where the bodice ends on me compared to the pattern cover?  For reference, I am 5'7".  Typically I do not alter patterns in the bodice length, except for when I make a FBA.

This dress is described as a pullover dress/tunic has front extending into the back collar, fitted, front pleated bodice, raised waist, tie ends, two-piece sleeves with barrel cuffs and stitched hem.  

So yes, the waist is raised, but with mine, I felt like with the belt, it wasn't hitting me in the right place.  So, I took it off.  I probably could have messed with the placement of it, but since I didn't have enough of the main fabric anyway, I had to make it in a black for contrast.  It just didn't do it for me.

There is a center back seam and while you may be tempted to cut this on the fold and loose that seam, I would caution you against it.  There is some nice shaping there.

I really love this fabric--it is from Stof.  It is 95 or so percent cotton and the rest is lycra.  It sews, wears, washes, and dries like a dream!

The length of this dress is just perfect for boots and such.  And that cross over bodice--it stays in place because I stitched it close with a very narrow zig-zag.  This bodice is very, very well designed. and the two piece shoulders are great as well.

Here is a shot of the barrel cuffs.  The are nice and long and support the weight and volume of the gathered sleeve.

If you look closely, you can see the stitch I use for my hems.  It is a stretch stitch on my Bernina.  I like this so much better than my coverstitch.  I really should sell that thing!  

Another Vogue 9247..this time with fringe!

I love this pattern.  This is my 2nd go with it and I love it just as much as I did making the first version.  How is that for a glowing endorsement?  

This time, I made view F, the longest view and added the self-fringe.  I honestly thought the fringe would take several hours to create, but with a rotary cutter and a see-through ruler it was short work--about 20 minutes or less, as I did take a break.

Here is just a moment for a PSA, I purchased a titanium blade for my Olfa rotary cutter, and honestly, it is the only blade I will ever purchase again.  It is that good!

Didn't the fringe turn out great?

This fabric, a faux suede from Fabric Mart, is hard to photograph.  It is more of a rich brown that olive green as it looks in the photo.  Oh, and sorry for the indoor photos but the actual temp was below zero (F).  We've been in the midst of a terrible cold spell.  I honestly don't know how Canadians do it!

This is a soft, fluid, and drapey fabric.  It also has and embossed floral and paisley pattern on it that is just barely visible in the photos. 

I was a tad worried about the length of this but not that it is finished, I am quite smitten with it.

I waited to attach the pockets until it was finished so I could get the location just at the right spot.

The brown trim that I attached just above the fringe, was from my stash.  You see, my daughter from Baton Rouge challenged me to actually use my stash and make zero purchases for fabric, pattern, and supplies for an entire month.  This just might kill me, but I am going to give it a go!

Wow, do I think this jacket is fun!

Thanks for reading!  Happy New Year!

Sue

A Very Easy Vogue jacket 9247

I'm back with something I thought about trying for a long time--a jacket with lace!

 

This pattern is Vogue 9247.  I purchased this for option D but after I received my lace and noticed the flaw in it, I knew I only had enough to make view C.  I am not disappointed with the result at all but dang, it would have been nice if the company I purchased it from cut after the flaw.  

This went together really well and is a fast make.  

The black is a knit that has a feel and look of a suede. It's been in my stash for quite a while and I thought it would be perfect for this and I think it was!   

This is a generously sized pattern.  I made a medium and found I didn't need an FBA--probably due to the knit. 

I made a sloping shoulder adjustment and swayback adjustment.  That's it!

The black lace with the blue is from Zeng's.  This is my first purchase from them.

There aren't any closures on this.  

My lace didn't have a finished upper edge.  I tried to dye some ivory cotton lace jet black, but it turned out a dark gray--not appropriate at all.  I followed those directions to a T.  So disappointing!  

Isn't that lace fun?  

I found this black trim at JoAnns.  It is washable, just like the black fabric and the lace.  It sewed easily and I think it works with the overall vibe of the rest of the jacket.

Thanks for reading!

Sue 

Vogue 1562--a new winter coat!

The minute I saw this red wool melton on Fabric Mart's site, I knew I had to make another winter coat.  It's only October, but with cold weather rapidly approaching, the sooner I started making this, the better.

Last year, I used a mustardy colored wool melton to make a duffle-type coat, and it was so wonderful to sew with that I went for the same type of fabric for this make.  There is still some of this candy-apple red wool available and some other colors as well on Fabric Mart's site if you are interested.

                     

Look at those details!  Three welt pockets, bound button holes, a felt under collar, fully lined, gorgeous collar and lapels.  Can you tell I love this?  It is a Lialia by Vogue.  Directions are for advanced sewers and I totally agree.  This pattern is for an experienced sewer.  If you are a newbie, practice before tackling this.

            

I was a tad bit worried: this coat has six bound button holes and with the thickness of this fabric, I wondered how they'd turn out.  I practiced several and found they worked perfectly with this fabric.  Just take your time and sew carefully and you'll get a good result.

              

What good is a winter coat with a boring lining?  I want to liven up my winter and choose this dark brown, polka-dot fabric by Maggy London.  It is sold out now, but I believe it was a silk blend.  It was really nice to cut out and sew together.

                  

Don't be afraid of using a heavier weight wool for your winter outerwear.  My Viking has zero issues sewing this.
   
               

I made my own shoulder pads, sewed the lining in by hand, hand hemmed the coat, so this truly was a labor of love.  I love how tailored it is compared to anything else I own.

            

There are a few things to be aware of when sewing this coat.
1.  Pay attention to the seam allowances listed on the pattern pieces.  The differences are not mentioned in the directions
2.  Not all the markings are present on the under collar
3.  Understitching the collar and lapel isn't mentioned but I did it as my fabric is rather thick and in all honesty, it is a step that shouldn't be skipped.
4.  Almost all pieces of the coat shell are interfaced with fusible interfacing.  If I make this again, and I might, I would use sew-in interfacing, probably hymo.
5.  I would add lower-hem facings instead of turning and hemming as I believe it would add to the lower hem lying nicer.
6.  I would pad-stitch the under collar to give it more shape.
7.   To give the shoulders and upper sleeve a bit more stability, I cut two pieces of hymo on the bias.  The shape followed the sleeve cap and continued from the shoulder seam to the notches for the front and back sleeve.
8.  I attached the lining by hand and am glad I did as it lays beautifully!
9.  I relied on an outside resource for my bound buttonholes.  The instructions are fine, I just wanted a few more details.  If you are experienced with these, you won't have any trouble.  Just make sure you measure your button hole width before you sew your garment.  My buttons are leather and quite a bit thicker than the pattern tissue indicates.

I typically make a FBA, sloping shoulder, and swayback adjustments.  I made all those but still needed to add shoulder pads.  I made those myself and covered them with the lining fabric before inserting into the shoulder area.   

Although I am not ready for winter, I am glad to know that I have a new coat hanging in my closet ready to tackle the cold weather!

Thanks for reading!

Sue from Ilove2sew!  A few parting shots of playing in the leaves!