A summer dress: McCall's 7383

Before I start with this review, this is my (maybe) wearable muslin.  The three fabrics I used weren't all that high of quality and thus behaved as such.:(  It's okay though.  I really wanted to try this dress and a muslin is what I needed to figure out if tweaks are necessary.

I thought this pattern was just darling when it first came out.  Have you seen it?

I love view A with those little extended sleeve sort of things.  I am always cautious of patterns such as this since the models are thin and sort of flat chested, neither of which describes me!  But I thought I would try it anyway because if the dress didn't work out, this would make an awesome nightgown!

 The patterns is described like this: Pullover dresses (close-fitting through bust) have seam detail, hemline variations and narrow hem.  A: Armhole bands.  B: Stitched hem on sleeves.  C: Upper front and back, cut on crosswise grain, bias lower front and back.  A, C, D: Wrong side shows on hemline.

I made view A.  This pattern calls for medium weight stretch knits such as cotton, jersey, Interlock or cotton knit.  I used poly knits that I think were bordering on lightweight.  I made a straight up medium, in case you are wondering about sizing.  For alterations next time, I will make a sloping shoulder adjustment and that's probably it unless any of you readers have a suggestion!

Did I mention these three fabrics were from my stash?  I think the gray and reddish orange are poly blends and the white might be a cotton. All had the recommended stretch but were challenging to work with.  Look how crappy the hemline looks (especially the gray) despite using a fusible hem tape to stabilize the area!

This is a fast make and the pattern seems to be well made with all the notches and pieces lining up correctly.  I will say though that view A seems to have the lower piece somewhat gathered onto the middle.  Do you notice that as well?  As the pattern is written, both pieces are sewn together flat, meaning there is zero gathering on that lower piece.

The length was really good on me as well and I am 5'7",  If you are shorter than that, this might be really long on you!

This is a very comfortable dress and I welcomed it in this extreme heat we are having--heat indices of 97 degrees--very unusual for June in South Dakota.

I will try this again in a more of a mid-weight knit.  I forgot to mention that I added the neck band as the pattern calls for turning the neckline under 5'8" and stitching down.  I really hate doing that so I staystitched the neckline and cut a band about 3 inches smaller than the measurement and then stitched and topstitched in place.  I think it will keep the fabric from stretching out, especially if you use a cheap-o knit like mine!

Thanks for reading!

What are you sewing this summer to stay cool?
Sue  

Summer sewing is going on here!

I wish I had a catchy title for this post, but honestly, this is an accurate description of what I have been up to or dreaming about.  And, since we are talking honesty here, I've had both these garments completed for quite some time but just haven't taken time to take photos!  Here is my review for two StyleArc pattern: Cyd top and Georgie Pants.  I love both garments so much!

First, let's review the Cyd Top.  I made this for the first time last summer with a chambray and coral with lace piecing in the back.  I still love my original version so much and KNEW I need a stark white top as well.  I simply LOVE white tops, especially white tops that aren't clingy all over and are fun--both of which this top is for me.



I love the peplum part of this top and the fact that you can embellish the crap out of it.  I can see this color-blocked, with unusual fabric choices and an exposed zip down the back.  What do you see when you look at this pattern?  I am curious!

The design lines are what makes this top fun to sew and fun to play with.  You can also make this sleeveless!

My pants are from the Georgie pattern which are an uber popular style in the current sewing world. They have many 'regular' jean details but with sort of legging styling meaning they simply pull on and off.  Use a stretch fabric such as mine which is a stretch denim and you'll love them so very much!


This is my second go at the pants pattern.  My first pair was made with a faux leather technically called a stretch bengaline I purchased from the StyleArc site.  I love both pairs--this one made from a gray/white leopard print and my first from the faux stretch leather look bengaline.

I have worn the heck out of both the top and pants.  I love the fit and style of both.  I think they are fun, if I do say so myself!

What are you sewing for summer?  I'd love to know!

Thanks for reading!
Sue

More StyleArc love....

Why do I wait so long to post my makes?  I've had this tabard and pants made for probably two weeks but just haven't had time to post about it.  Better late than never, right?


So first up is the Tania Tabard.  What is a Tabard you ask?  Well, I had no idea so I turned to Wikipedia for an answer and here was mine:

A tabard is a short coat common for men during the Middle Ages. Generally used while outdoors, the coat was either sleeveless or had short sleeves or shoulder pieces. In its more developed form it was open at the sides; and it could be worn with or without a belt. Though most were ordinary garments, often workclothes, tabards might be emblazoned on the front and back with a coat of arms (livery), and in this form they survive now as the distinctive garment of officers of arms.

                                    

And a more modern interpretation, also from Wikipedia: In modern British usage, the term has been revived for what is known in American English as a cobbler apron: a lightweight open-sided upper overgarment, of similar design to its medieval and heraldic counterpart, worn in particular by workers in the catering, cleaning and healthcare industries as protective clothing, or outdoors by those requiring high-visibility clothing.

Ok.....Now the easy part of the review: the Beth Stretch Woven Pant: 

From the StyleArc site: this is an updated version of the Barb Stretch pant with slimming design lines.  This is my second make from this pattern.  My first was a stretch bengaline I purchased from StyleArc.  This time I made them in a heavy ponte.

Here is my completed outfit.  I left off the front twisted overlay.  While I left it off, it truly was one of the things that drew me to the pattern in the first place.  Why did I leave it off?  I did because it didn't work for this fabric.  This linen blend was far too stiff  to lay properly and drape as it should.
 

Under the overlay there is a tuck but I decided I didn't need that either.  Ignore my partially closed eyes.  DH caught me mid-blink.  

I like how this tabard fits: not tight, but not loose either and those side-slits are awesome.  Can we talk about side bra coverage?  Nothing shows at all.  Yippee!  

I also like how the shoulders, back, waist, and hips fit on this.  It is slightly different from the line drawings, mine isn't cut in so far at the shoulders but I like how this looks.  

 

And, here's the pants.  Sorry to start you with a booty-shot.  I love the wide waistband.

 Even with my borderline flat rear, these aren't very baggy on the back upper thighs.

And I do like the design lines on this pant.  They do give it some style and talk about comfort!  These are amazing!  

I purposely made this ankle length so they would be sandal appropriate.  I made zero alterations to the pants.  That is just how awesome this pattern is.

I love my new outfit and can't wait to wear it.

I appreciate you reading my posts and love to hear your comments!
Sue

Another dress for summer..McCall's 7351

When you find beautiful fabric are you like me and rush to snap it up?  That's exactly what I did when I saw a fellow sewer make a lovely shirt dress with this same fabric I used. And, here is her dress:

                    

She had a clickable link to Mood fabric and I snatched it up right away!  I wish I could remember her user name and I would share he blog post, but I am not that organized to have saved it but I will tell you that if you click here you can see and order some of this pretty fabric as well!

So back to the task at hand...let's look at McCall's 7351, which BTW is the same pattern I used!



I made view A sans lower pockets.   I just didn't think those pockets added to the overall look.  Do you?

I just love how summery and colorful this fabric is!  It is lightweight and very breathable.  I love the lower-in-the-front/back and higher-on-the-sides look.  It is a bit different but not too dramatic.  

I made a size 14, my usual size in McCall's.  This pattern has custom fitting for cup sizes from A/B to D.  I made the cup sizing in a C along with sloping shoulder adjustment.  Those are the only alterations I made.  Typically, I also make a swayback adjustment but when there is a waistline seam, it seems like I don't need that alteration.  

I really love how there is little gaping at the armscye so the bra is covered.  

The back is really great as well.  I love the detail of the back pleat and yoke.  The yoke is lined with the main fabric so that the inside looks nicer and tidier than it would if that wasn't lined.  

I've made enough garments like this that I didn't read the directions word-for-word but I will say that the order of construction was well thought out and logical.  All the pattern pieces fit together well and the pattern seems well drafted.

This dress is made for a belt and I had this Fossil belt in my wardrobe that gets used frequently.  Did I mention that I really like the collar, collar stand, and front bands?

For some unknown reason, I had a whale of a time stitching on the collar band.  This has nothing to do with the pattern or the drafting but only me and my lack of sleep from the previous night.  I finally just cut both pieces out new and started fresh.  It made all the difference.  

Thanks for reading!  My only minor complaint about this pattern is that while it looks shapely on the envelope, I don't think it does anything for me but to make me look more rectangular than I am.  Am I imagining things?  I still love the dress and will wear the heck out of it!

Sue :)

Another summer dress--McCall's 7350

I fell in love with this pattern the first time I laid eyes on it.  Can you blame me?  I love the neckline and the cross-over, high-low hemline.     

   

I made a mash-up of the length of view A with the bodice of view C/D.  

This was fun to put together.  I used this super-soft yet able-to-hold-its-shape ditzy floral knit from Fabric Mart.  I had no idea what I was going to make when I purchased it but I let it stew for a bit and came up with this fun dress.  

Typically I make a several alterations to patterns but this is sewn as is based on the shaping of the bodice.  For bodice C/D it is a loose-fitting.  Normally, I make an FBA, sway-back adjustment, sloping shoulder adjustment.  For this, I made just the sloping shoulders.  

Yes, there is that much ease in the bodice!  I didn't think the cross-over in the front skirt was as pronounced as the pattern tissue indicates.  Just watch for that! I do think that there is plenty of coverage as I tested it out when I walked around the house and yard.   

                                                                                                                                                                 

My deviations from the pattern were so minimal!  I didn't add the elastic casing at the waistline as I didn't think I needed it after I tried the dress on.  I haven't worn this all day yet, so if I change my mind on the elastic, I will update this post!  What I think is key is to pick a knit that has excellent/good recovery after stretched.  

The midriff lining piece is a very nice touch and gives the top stability at the waistline.  My only minor complaint with this pattern is the amount of armscye droop.  I must wear a cami with this one! The v-neck is also pretty low cut and the cami will help with any possible wardrobe malfunctions.  

                                                                                                                                                               

 I really like my new dress!  Both DD1 and DD2 said this was frumpy.  I don't see frumpy at all.  I see a casual, summer work appropriate dress.  What say you?  Were DD 1 and 2 right?  

Thanks for reading!

Sue :)  

A little summer dress in chambray

I love Chambray, it is super comfortable, sews together so well and looks great in so many ways!  I decided to make my May contribution to Fabric Mart based on a cute little McCall's pattern, 7391 in a dress.

I LOVE this fabric.  It is soft, holds its shape, presses beautifully, and the color!!!  My oh my, this is my ideal shade of Chambray blue.

I like adding little bits of hardware at times and since this pattern had grommets, I had to try it out. McCall's patterns are the ones I sew the most often and I know what steps I need to take to make the garment fit me.

When you prepare your pattern tissue according to your fit, it makes construction very easy.  I made an FBA, swayback adjustment, sloping shoulder adjustment and that's it.  Although when you make a sloping shoulder adjustment you also must decrease the height of the sleeve cap and lower the armscye so the sleeve isn't too tight at the shoulder.

This pattern is stated as loose-fitting but don't believe it.  That would mean it has between five 1/2 and eight inches of ease from the bust down.  This dress has no where near that, but I could tell by looking at the photograph of the model on the pattern envelope.    I purposely made mine garment a bit snugger than that, more lie a semi-fitted dress.  And, I laced my differently than the pattern envelope suggests, just because I can.  :)

My serger was being serviced when I made this little dress and I wanted a very nice finish on the insider as well as the outside so I decided to make flat-felled seams throughout.  If you've never made flat-felled seams, don't fear!  They are easy and quite fun and give you such a RTW finish on your garment inside.

To make a flat-felled seam, sew your seams allowances with the typical 5/8".  Press the seam open flat.  Decide which direction you want your topstitching to show on the garment right side and cut the appropriate seam to a scant 1/4".  I like to use applique scissors for this step.

Next, press the untrimmed seam allowance under by 1/4" towards the seam you just trimmed.  Lastly, stitch close to the fold line.  If you've sewn accurately, pressed and trimmed accurately, you will have a seam that is very precise and looks very good on the garment right side.  When I stitch down the felled part of the seam, I use my edge stitching foot, move my needle over three notches, and increase the tension on my machine.  I love the results I get.  Below you can see the flat-felled stitching from the inside of the garment.

It is also fun to add an element of surprise to a garment whether it is inside or out.  Since my serger was out of commission, I added this bright pink bias tape to the lower part of the facing and used a decorative stitch to attach it.  I really like the pop of color when it is hanging up.  

This was a great, beautiful, and fun fabric to sew with.  Choose a pattern you love, get a great fit, accessorize, or keep it simple and sew yourself a great dress with some chambray!

Thanks for reading!
Sue