In pursuit of the perfect fitted blouse

I love fitted blouses, especially when the fit is beyond superb.  Having said that, I really like this one but I have some additional fitting to do.  But this, is a very good start!

For this blouse, I used the StyleArc Jenny Shirt.  It has some very nice details!  I love the forward shoulder treatment, back yoke, placket sleeve vent, and the darts for fitting.

It also has an almost real placket for the sleeve, which I think is always a great touch.  Although, darn, I forgot to get a picture of that detail! I promise to for the next version.  

As sewists, we all know, or should know what we are getting into with StyleArc patterns when it comes to the directions.  Am I right?  

For these, I was completely disappointed and I am a HUGE fan of StyleArc!  

Here are my complaints--

How hard is it to proof read?  I know that I make errors in my blog, but I am not publishing it for anything than my own personal reflection on my sewing, not to sell a gosh-darn-thing.  In the first line of construction details, the word 'cur' is used instead of cut.  Not huge, but then again....

My other gripe is that the sleeve placket pattern doesn't match the diagram included with the instructions.  Now mind you, I've done this more than a few times so I know how to make a sleeve placket but if you had no idea, this illustration wouldn't help you in the least.  Not one tiny bit.  

Alterations?  Well, I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and that is it.  

Also, I knew this top was fitted, but I am not the slim, trim gal I was 15 years ago so I left out the back darts so I had a little breathing room.  Maybe if I hadn't eaten so many goodies for Christmas, I would have been able to put the darts in, but for now, they are out.  

I also am experimenting with the best way to complete a sloping shoulder adjustment and I read an article in the most recent Vogue Sewing that talked about this topic.  Their suggestion or technique is to scoop out the bottom of the armscye as much as you do the with the sloping shoulders.  Does that make any sense whatsoever?  

I'll take a photo next time.  I think the shoulders need a tad more work.  

I love my new top, especially with this RTW vest I've had for ever!

Thanks for reading and if you have a blouse pattern you love, would you share the pattern details with me?

Sue :)  

Comfy, cozy flannel

I love flannel!  Do you?  It is warm, soft, and comes in wonderful colors and patterns.  I found this plaid fabric when a local quilt shop decided to sell off all their fabric.  I wish I would have purchased more colors and patterns! It is truly lovely to work with.  And oh yes, this post is LATE!!!  Better late than never, right?

I couldn't decide what to make with it or what exactly I would do with it but knew I loved the gray and muted red together.

For inspiration, I turn to the web and a lot of times Pinterest.  Instead of a typical button up the front and collared shirt, I thought this tunic from StyleArc might be fun.  The pattern isn't designed for flannel but with the looser fit and blouson top, I thought it would work so I'll let you decide if the final execution was worth it or not.  I will say however that I wore it today and received many compliments!

This tunic is called the Ginnie.  It has a front band, drawstring at the hip level, envelope pockets that are lower than the bust, roll sleeves and a shaped hemline.  I made just a few modifications.

As you can see, I cut the front band and pocket flaps on the bias to give it a little visual interest.  I interfaced the areas that called for interfacing as suggested by the pattern.  For StyleArc, the directions were actually pretty good!  The only head-scratching moment I had was in regards to the envelope pockets.

This is the first time I've ever made them and while they aren't complicated, I was confused!  If you look at the diagram of the pocket and think about it, they go together fairly easily.  Don't be like me and over think it.

I lengthened the sleeves so they are full-length and also the hemline so it covers my backside more thoroughly.  There is nothing worse that tugging on a top that is too short.  I didn't initially add the sleeve tabs but might now that I have worn it.

I will make this tunic again in a lighterweight fabric that is more flowy as that is how it was designed. I love breaking the sewing rules now and then, don't you?

Thanks for reading, I love this top and felt warm, cozy, and if it is okay to say, confident in my new top.  As you can see, I included some 'action' shots of my favorite little buddy (my grandson Simon). He was 'helping' me decorate the Christmas tree!  

Sue :)

Happy 2016!

Sew many plans, sew many goals, sew many ideas swirling in my head...how about you?

I'd love to hear your thoughts on 2015 and your plans for 2016!

For me, I know what I didn't do pretty clearly...

1.  Bra sewing.  Nope, didn't happen.  If I don't set a completion date, it won't happen so my goal is by 2-1-16 to have perfected the fit of at least one bra.  

2.  Quilts.  I had four in the queue.  I complete the top of one, but with that one only being halfway completed, I've got a long way to go! My goal is to have the one that is almost complete done by January 31st.  

New goals (and completion dates!),  As a friend once so logically said, "A goal without a completion date is just a wish."  Well said!!

1.  Find the perfect blouse pattern.  After finding it, create the perfect white blouse by June 1st  It is about time!

2.  Work on tailoring techniques such as with a channel type jacket.  Completion date is March 1st.  

3.  Finish at least one additional quilt in the queue.  With three additional kits, this must be done by September 30th.

4.  This goal is reserved for after completing these three new goals plus the two from last year.  If I complete all these, which I sincerely hope to, then I consider a new goal very appropriate!

Happy sewing all!  I love hearing from you so please let me know your thoughts!

Sue 

Woodland Stroll Cape--another Indy!

I am on a roll with Indy patterns!  This one from Liesl and Co has been on my radar for a while  now and I finally dove in to create it!  It really is a simple make and I really, really like my finished garment.

 

I ordered this as a PDF and it didn't have too many pieces--yippee!  There are a lot of pages of directions and helpful illustrations to assist you along the way.

I made a size medium and the sizing is from XS to XL.  This pattern isn't a fabric hog, in only needing 1.5 yards of the main and lining fabric.

It does need a fabric with some body such as wool coating, wool melton, velvet, moleskin or corduroy.

I used a pale yellow wool suiting that wasn't heavy enough so I remedied that by using two layers of the wool and quilting the sandwiched layer to the lining which is silk.  This process added about an hour to the total project.  Not too bad!  Both fabrics have been in my stash for a while and I purchased them at Fabric Mart.

This is such an easy fitting garment and unless you are uber busty, I would recommend using your hip measurements to find your right size.

I made zero alterations to this cape.

I decided to try and find the little buckles just like the photo of the pattern uses and was successful!  I found the ones I used, from Dritz, at JoAnns.

An easy project that yields fun results!  I really like this cape and plan on wearing it a lot!

Thanks for reading!  And I hope you all have a Happy New Year!
Sue

Another dressy dress from Sew Chic

This pattern and fabric have been in my stash for too long!  How long is too long?  For at least a year! I hate it when I have what could be a fab garment sitting in a pile somewhere and I simply just can't get to it.

The perfect opportunity came up when SPR announced the contest called 'New To Me Pattern Contest.'  I've never made up a pattern by Laura Nash at Sew Chic before and I must say that I am quite smitten! She has some nice vintage styles and the fit is fabulous!  I didn't have to make hardly any alterations to get this to fit how I wanted.

Here are some images of the dress from the Sew Chic site:  I love it both fabrics!  This dress is called the Beatrice  The pattern number is LN1310.

The fabric I used is a floral brocade with metallic threads running through it.  I wish I would remember what I paid for it, but I do remember it being a bargain.  I also have to admit I wasn't smitten with it when I purchased it (the fabric) and fully intended on this being my muslin.  I like it so much, that this is now my wearable muslin.

 
Basically this is a sheath dress with sleeves and kangaroo pockets.  There is piping at the waistline that is a nice accent.  The neckline is what drew me to the pattern in the first place.  It's classy, modest, unique.  The zipper is at the side seam and the pattern calls for a lapped zip but I used an invisible one.  There is a very functional dart at the elbow as well as front and back darts to let you get the shaping necessary for a good fit.  Just the bodice is lined.

This isn't a pattern for beginners with the fitting and the finishing details that must be completed in order to get a quality garment.  I made sure that I matched up the motifs running down the center front, back, and at the pockets.  How many RTW garments don't have that detail?

My brocade is a little heavier than perhaps the pattern called for, so my only real modification was to not only line the bodice, but then to cut facings in the main fabric and apply those to the neckline.  I couldn't get the lining to not slightly show on the garment right side, which I assume was due to the weight differences.  Since I created the facings, I ended up hand-stitching those in place along the inside where I attached them to the lining pieces all around the neckline.  Speaking of hand-stitching, I hand hemmed the sleeves and lower hem.  I love hand-stitching, it is cathartic and really makes a great looking garment!
  

Fitting this garment was actually easy!  Normally I make an FBA.  With this dress I didn't need one. I ended up having to take in the bust darts and lengthen them.  This never. ever. happens!  I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and instead of a sloping shoulder adjustment, I added 1/4" shoulder pads.  Everything else is sewn as is on the pattern.

I really love my dress and I will most likely wear it with dressier boots or shoes, but with all the snow we've had and the fact my soon-to-be-daughter-in-law stopping over, I decided to take the opportunity to have her snap some photos of me wearing it.  Just look at that neckline, isn't it beautiful?

                              

Thanks for reading.  The more I use Indy patterns, the more I love them!  Are you with me on this?

Sue :)  

A Holiday dress in lace

I love the holidays, and even more, I love wearing something I've made. Well, this year, I decided to make a beautiful lace dress.  I've never tackled a project like this, so grab a coffee or your favorite beverage, and I will walk you though my journey.  

I choose this lovely pattern from my favorite company, StyleArc.  I've had my eye on this dress for a very long time but wondered where on earth I would wear it and could I create it in a way that I would be proud of?  

Here is the pattern description from StyleArc's site: 
A wonderful party dress complete with a slip. Use scalloped lace to create beautiful and interesting neckline. The lace edge can also be used on the hem and sleeves. This pattern can be made many ways - all lace, lace yokes & sleeves with plain body, or completely plain. The choice is yours!

Those design lines are so pretty!  I love the separate slip cut on the bias since bias cut garments just glide over your skin and feel wonderful!  

I also really like the elbow length sleeves with the zipper back and opening at the shoulder blades to the neckline where it closes with a hook and eye.  

Since I've not made a dress such as this, I choose to make not one but two muslins and I am very happy I did so!  While I typically don't hardly alter a StyleArc pattern, since this was made in lace a more delicate to handle, I knew I would get a better feel of how the garment went together through the practice-fit.  I just used a lightweight gabardine to test this for my first and second muslin. 

The first time through, I made the pattern as is with my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment and also a sort of new alteration for me and that is a slight (3/8") sloping shoulder adjustment.   And, constructed the dress as the pattern was written.  Honestly, if you think about the look of the dress and read carefully, this dress will make sense.  

After the initial fitting, I decided I wanted to have more room in the torso so I took out the optional darts and felt so much better about how the dress felt and how it looked on me!  I knew I could always add the darts at a later time if needed.  I also raised the back seam that runs along the shoulder blades by an inch at the center back, as I didn't want my bra to show and yes, I will wear a bra.  I am 52 years old and wear a C-cup, I am assuming if you were me, you would too.  :)  I also had to take in the armscye from the shoulder seam to the underarm on the back of the dress.  Maybe I have a narrow back as well?  

The second muslin fit so much  better and I held my breath as I cut into the lace.  Let's talk about the lace for a minute.  It was so lovely to work with and I like the design that has geometric patterns in it rather than a usual floral work.  I love florals, but sometimes I think I need to mix things up a bit.  

I was very leery as to how to finish off the seams so they wouldn't pull apart as some of the lace has some open places.  And, since this dress is so lovely, I am considering wearing it to my son's wedding in January.  
I plan on dancing and can you imagine if the seams popped while I was doing the hustle on the dance floor?  I researched quite a bit and came up with using silk organza cut into 1/2" strips and stitching those strips along the seams.  See how nicely the seams finished off after serging?  

  The organza is black, just like the lace and is barely visible.   I used the organza to reinforce the zipper insertion as well but instead of the silk on one side of the seam, I put it on both.  I also used the lace pattern itself to create the hems on the skirt and sleeves.  I practiced a bit by cutting different parts of the lace to see what I liked and I settled on this fringe base which I created by cutting off a portion of the lace pattern.

Another concern I had was due to the construction process.  The instructions tell you that when you are attaching the front and back bodice, you stitch to a dot, raise your presser foot, clip to the notch, pivot the fabric and carry on.  I didn't want to risk cutting too far, so I staystitched the neckline and sewed a small piece of the organza to the pivot point to reinforce it and make me feel better about constructing this dress in lace.  I must admit, it worked beautifully.  

` Everything was going really well but I wasn't sure how to finish off the front and back neckline and I was a little worried about inserting a zipper in the lace.  Again, I looked to the lace for the answer and I cut a portion of the design off and used a very narrow zigzag to attach it to the bodice.  I simply stitched slowly and followed the edge of the design.  After applying the edging, I used my applique scissors to trim the excess away. 
   
I normally wouldn't post a picture of my chest like this, but it does show the neckline really well.  As you can imaging, dear husband took this photo when I wasn't looking.  



The last headache I had with this dress was the zipper.  As I was working with the lace, I knew a regular invisible zipper from JoAnn's or Hancock's probably wouldn't cut it due to the weight of the zip and the lightness of the dress.  I predicted a big puddle at the bottom of the zip and sadly my estimation was correct.  I had no idea what to do and reached out to the sewing community.  An angel in disguise led me to a site that sells lightweight invisible zippers.  Shipping was fast and I had the new zipper inserted in a matter of minutes and whew, no more puddles!  In case you are wondering about the weight difference in a regular and lightweight zipper here it is: 

Lightweight zipper--four grams

  

Regular zipper--six grams.  Those two grams make a difference!  Trust me!  

While it sounds like this dress was a ton of work, it really wasn't.  The lace was lovely to work with and it behaved just beautifully.  It presses well and I am so happy with the end result.  


I almost forgot that I also made the slip as well!  This is included in the pattern and I ordered this black charmeuse that was heavenly to work with.  Luckily the pattern has a c-cup bodice for the slip and I made it as is.  You don't need any special tools but I do have a recommendation for a bias-cut garment.  Let the slip hang for at least 24 hours before hemming.  It you have wonder clips, attach those every three or four inches to help the garment hand properly.  If you don't have wonder clips, you could also use safety pins every few inches just a few threads up from the hemline.
  

I can't wait to wear my new lace dress!  I know, it is pretty fancy, but I think it will be perfect for my son's wedding!

Thanks for reading!

Sue 

unselfish sewing week

I love sewing for myself but there is something special when you make a garment for someone else. Even though I work for precision and a beautifully executed finished product, I seem to work harder when I am making something for someone other than me.  So I have to say I am super proud of the finished result.

I made this Albion coat from Colette Patterns for my baby, Daniel, who happens to have just turned 25, is a third year medical student and how has been married for two years.  Doesn't sound like much of a baby, huh?  Well, he will always be mine!  Daniel simply is not a big guy and due to some health issues, he can't eat much so he most likely will never be much bigger than he is now.  I think he always looks cold so momma came to the rescue with a wool duffle coat in a cozy brown wool.  

  

From Colette Patterns site, this is how the Albion is described:
"Invest some time in Albion to create a classic duffle style coat (version 1) or jacket (version 2). Each version features toggle closures, tailored two-piece sleeves, yoke details, and a stylish three-piece hood.
Version 1 is a mid-thigh length coat with patch pockets, in-seam pockets, a detachable hood tab, and flannel lining. Version 2 is a hip-length unlined jacket with a combination of felled and bound seams, in-seam pockets, and interior pockets.
Albion is a versatile, simple shape that transitions easily from menswear to women’s wear."

I made version 1 in a small.  I will also add that it fit me perfectly though the shoulders and bust, so one of these may be in my future as well!  

I wish I would have added a flannel as the lining but I didn't think about it until I was completely finished.  Maybe next time!

I made a muslin since I don't use many Collette patterns and wanted to make sure it fit great before cutting into the wool.  The fit was spot on, with zero alterations. I LOVE it when that happens!

I had barely enough wool to create this so I used some clever layout to get all the pieces on and had about a 12"X 12" chunk left over--whew!

The directions are logical and well thought out and I followed them while making this coat and lining.

I did decide to 'enhance' the coat with a few what I call upgrades.  Here are those!
1.  Interface the tabs and the pocket flaps
2.  Stitched the neckline with a 5/8" seam rather than the 3/8" called for in the directions.  I thought it was a bit strange that the directions have you staystitch at 5/8" but the finished seam is 3/8",  I didn't want to rip out the staystitching, so I just stitched a deeper seam allowance.
3.  I interfaced the hems with fusible interfacing so they had just a bit of body and would hold a nice crease.  The interfacing worked beautifully.

I also made my own toggles.  Had I purchased toggles at Hancock's, it would have cost me $30 and that was more than my fabric!  Did I fail to mention that both fabrics were on clearance and I picked them up last year at the end of the season?  The coating was $6 a yard and the lining $1 a yard.  Both were very nice quality as well!  To make the toggles, I purchased suede elbow patches and cut them into my desired shapes.  I found brown leather strips (for lack of a better word) and wooden buttons.  Making the toggles took about 15 minutes and I think they look just a good as the purchased ones but at the fraction of the cost.

Daniel loves his coat.  He looks great in it and I hope it will keep him nice and warm this winter!
Thanks for reading!
Sue