This pattern is a Butterick designer pattern by Suzi Chin. I fell in love
with the drapey neck, the shirred waist, and the pleats at the skirt. It is
rated as Average and is described as this on the back of the
envelope:
Partially lined dress has bias front pleated bodice, bias midriff,
slightly shaped front hemline, invisible side zipper and narrow hem. Here is
where you can see a picture of the pattern envelope.
Suzi Chin Pattern
I used a wonderful designer knit I purchased from a fabric store in New
Orleans when I was there for a conference last December. At that time, I weighed
almost 20 more pounds than I do now, so I set it aside waiting for the perfect
pattern and until I shed a few pounds!
Well, I finally am down two pattern
sizes and sewed this up in a 16. I feel like the waist is still a little snug,
but with summer coming up and my passion for running and riding my bike, I am
hoping to knock another inch off my waist. Plus
wearing a cotton cami under a knit dress isn’t such a great idea. I was too lazy
to remove it for the pictures.
So here is what I did with the pattern, some things worked, and some didn’t!
Please don’t make my mistakes!!!
The pattern calls for a two-way stretch knit and that is what I used. So, in
what I thought was a stroke of brilliance, I thought I could line the bodice
with a woven. Wow was I having a brain-fart. What was I thinking? Lining a knit
with a woven? Someone slap me upside the head next time I think something that
ridiculous would work. That little mistake cost me many hours of deconstructing
the entire thing and staring over. Since I thought I was being so incredibly
smart and used the woven, I didn’t even bother to purchase the Tricot for the
lining. After my hour or two of deconstruction, I searched all over Sioux Falls
and couldn’t find any Tricot in stock anywhere, so I headed up to my lingerie
drawer and found two discarded slips. Slips? Really? Does anyone wear those
anymore that is under the age of 75? Oops! I hope my mother in law isn’t reading
this, she tends to buy everyone slips when she notices us girls aren’t wearing
one!
So, I cut those slips apart to match the pattern pieces, restitched the
entire thing, put the invisible zipper back in and viola! I have a completed
dress!
The dress is a little shorter than I would normally have liked it, but my
husband thinks I now have the legs for it, so I won’t do anything about it. Not
that I could, I don’t have enough fabric to recut the skirt and since I
purchased it five months ago halfway across the country, I am out of luck.
What did I like or dislike?
Putting in the invisible zipper with all the
shirring was tortureous to say the least and after one try I ended up hand
basting it so all the seams lined up.
I lifted the neckline that is under the
drape by 1.5 inches and feel it is still too low. I am wearing a cami
underneath and you can see it.
I love the draping and skirt lines. The side
zip makes the back fit well.
I made my usual erect back/sway back adjustment
of lowering the back neckline by 1/2 inch.
I wish my slips had been ivory
instead of white, but you can’t see the lining at all, so that is a bonus.
If
you read any of my other reviews regarding knit fabrics, you would know that
unfinished edges drive me batty so even though I didn’t need to do this extra
step, I did: I turned under the edge of the facing and edge stitched it with two
rows of stitching. I love how polished it looks.
Also on the bodice front,
the neck edge is simply rolled to the inside, again, unfinished. Well, guess
what I did with that? Yep, you got it, I finished that edge with my serger,
turned it under and topstitched it.
I will warn you there is quite a bit of
hand sewing the lining to the bodice. I like hand stitching, in moderation that
is, so it didn’t bother me.
All in all, I think this dress is worth stitching up. Please make a muslin. I
wish I would have!
Have fun with this one.
Oh, and please forgive the
rather poor quality of the pictures. I tried something new with my camera and it
didn’t work out how I wanted it to!
Happy sewing!
Sue
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