The baby has arrived!

Yes, my first grandchild was born today!  4 and 1/2 weeks early, but healthy and cute as a little button!  I had started making him a snowsuit about a week or so ago (yes, I know, it's only August) but winter has a way of sneaking up on people and I wanted him to be nice and snugly warm. 

I saw this pattern on-line when I was searching for cute infant boys clothing.  Try saying that three times fast!  When I saw this adorable pattern, I knew it was my destiny to make it for him! 




I mean look at this cute little thing, how adorable, especially with the 'scales' running up the backside!  It doesn't help that the little model is impossibly cute either. 

Here's my best attempt at a description: bib coveralls with snap front opening that folds out of the way for easy dressing.  Hood has toggle type closure with elastic enclosed in the casing.  The entire coveralls are lined with terry cloth and all the seams are covered. 
So, I found my fabric at Fabric.com.  It was tough to find the right weight twill for the shell and a terry cloth that coordinated with it.  Since I couldn't see both together in person, I used their design wall feature and am pretty happy with the results. 

Tracing off the pattern is pretty easy to do with the 'real' magazine paper to trace from.  I remembered this time to add seam allowances.  For these little coveralls, you must cut the lining fabric a tad smaller than the shell and use deeper seam allowances as you want the lining to cling to the interior rather than bag away. 

The dinosaur applique is adhered first with stitch witchery and then I used a decorative straight stitch around the outside to keep it snugly in place. 

I made the 6 month size and given my little guy was early, he's pretty tiny and these coveralls look huge compared to him!  Luckily I know how fast he will grow! 

After tracing and cutting out, I promptly lost the directions for this pattern!  I took the magazine on a business trip with me and I can't believe I left the magazine behind!  I had to wing it when it came to putting this together--which by the way was pretty darn challenging given the way the child is put into this thing.  It isn't just a placket front, it has a rounded bib sort of thing with a separate overlapping front piece.  What is so great about this is that you open the coveralls up, lay the baby down, stuff his little legs and arms in with the easy access point and snap him up!  See what I mean by the photo?


I remember having a snowsuit for my newborns that zipped down the middle to the crotch and then flowed down one leg.  Talk about miserable when it came to dressing baby!  This way seems so much easier to me. 

Here is the basic order I constructed this:
1.  Appliqued the dino
2.  Sewed the scales down the backside and the hood, then sewed the center back seams
3.  Constructed the eyelets in the hood for the toggle and elastic closure
4.  Basted the lining to the front bib piece
5.  Attached self-bias tape (from a red cotton from my stash) to the front bib piece
6.  Attached the front to back, realized I sewed the front bib incorrectly, unsewed and tried again!
7.  Constructed the lining
8.  Attached the hood and hood lining
9.  Slipstitched the hood lining--I wouldn't skip this step.  The terry cloth lining rolled like heck!  This tamed it quite a bit!
10. Attached the lining to the shell and realized I shouldn't have sewn the center back seam the entire way so I could have 'clean edges' and hems!
11. Unsewed portions of the center back seam
12. Hemmed the legs and arms
13. Turned everything right side out so it all made sense! 
14. Topstitched the raglan sleeves, around the hood and in the ditch on the bias taped bib
15. Attached the snaps
16. Strung the elastic cord and toggle-type cord
17. Done!

Although that doesn't seem like that many steps, I spent quite a bit of time figuring out what I needed to do and unsewing what I'd done! 

I do think my finished garment looks like the magazine.  I do have to say sometimes it is rather disappointing knowing you can't get everything to coordinate without a lot of legwork prior to starting.  I didn't think about my elastic cord and toggle matching the shell!  I had to put up with the offerings from Hancocks. 

Directions--I know that the directions in the magazine don't have visuals and if you are an inexperienced sewer, I am not sure you could make this without visuals.

Alterations/modifications:
None that I know of, given I lost the directions!  I do have more snaps than the magazine shows and I didn't have quite enough of the yellow snaps, so I used some red ones on the upper part of the bodice. 

Recommendations:
This was such a fun and unique pattern for the new little man in my life!  It will be a lot of fun to see him in this!
I really don't recommend this pattern unless you've had some experience sewing.  If you are confident in your abilities, you'll love it!

Conclusion:
I really enjoyed making this without directions.  I think I now know what it must be like to use a Marfy pattern!  Lots of fun, unique, and I think very cute!

Thanks so much for reading!
Sue :) 

Vogue 8747 Top

Pattern Description: This is a Vogue Basic Design Pattern for Misses' top.  The description from the back of the envelope is pretty sparse: Misses'/Misses' Petite Shirt: Fitted, A, B, C, D cup sizes.  What I would add is that it has sleeve length variations, collar band with collar option, princess seams, both front and back, and gathers at the bust. 

Suggested fabrics are: Lightweight broadcloth, Sateen, Lightweight Crepe, Shantung. 

This is a multi-sized pattern. I started with between a 14 and16 since it is fitted rather than semi-fitted or more loose-fitting. 

Fabric used:
A beautiful quality batik that is just luscious. I purchased it at a local quilt shop in Sioux Falls.

Did it look like the envelope when you were done sewing it?
Yes the styling is the same.  My fabric is pretty colorful but the shape is there. 

How were the directions?

Sorry about the wrinkles! 
I should have pressed before modeling! 

Excellent directions.  Easy to understand and follow.  I did however change the order of construction slightly as I like to attach the collar/neckline detail prior to sewing up the side seams.  I just find it much easier when the neckline is flat. 


Likes/Dislikes:
The cup sizing.  No need for FBA! 
Gathering details at the bust gives this a little oomph, rather than an ordinary princess seamed top. 
Sleeve variations
You can leave the collar off if you'd like and still have a stylish top.
Dislikes:
There was quite a bit of hand sewing for this with basting things in place.  I tried to cheat and use steam-a-seam on the neckline and it just didn't work quite as nice a hand basting.  I ultimately had to hand baste. 
This is a great pattern, it would be nice if there was a 'real' placket for the cuff rather than the continuous lap. 

 
Alterations/Modifications:
I made my usual 1/2" sway back adjustment on the center back piece.  On the side back seams, I put in a 1/4" swayback adjustment.  I am pretty pleased with how this turned out.  Typically I let the center back piece do all the work with adjusting.  I think the back lies nicer now.  
After trying this on multiple times during construction, I was afraid it would be too tight.  So, to compensate, I used 3/8" seam allowance on the front band.  It ended up making the band wider and therefore the 'gap' between the bands on the front about the bust narrower.  This alteration also made the bust area too big so I merely moved the band over on the front a bit to compensate for it being too large there.  I should have just taken the band apart and sewed the entire thing.  Oh well. 
I decided to cover my own buttons. 


Conclusion:
It is easy to see why this is a favorite pattern from 2012.  It goes together really well and is a little more than your average top. 
If you haven't made this up yet, what are you waiting for?  I am just sorry I waited so long!
Sorry about the close up of the gathers, but DH said that was a design feature he needed to capture.  :)  Enough said! 

Thanks for reading!
Sue

McCall's Skirt

Pattern Description:
This is a Palmer/Pletsch skirt pattern.  What drew me to this pattern is the welt pockets and the straight skirt styling, truly a classic in my book. 
Here is the description from the back of the envelope:
Misses' skirt and pants: Semi-fitted skirt and pant (slightly flared) have contour waistband, welt pockets and invisible back zipper. 
Suggested fabrics are: Poplin, Sateen, Crepe, Gabardine.  You also need a bit of lining for this skirt.

This is a multi-sized pattern.  I started with a 16 and not sure what I ended up with as I took it in and think I may need to take it in just a tad more, not sure yet if I will do that or not. 

Fabric used:
A beautiful quality quilting cotton that is just luscious.  I purchased it at Heirloom Creations in Sioux Falls. 

Did it look like the envelope when you were done sewing it?
Yes, pretty much!  I do however think the welt pocket placement is a little too far to the side seams, maybe...jury is still out on that! 

How were the directions?
You know, directions were pretty great until I got to the welt pocket.  It is so cumbersome and overly complicated.  I am sure there is a mistake in the directions.  I took the pocket apart three times, reread the directions three times, looked over the pictures over and over.  I finally just quit over thinking it and worked backwards from what it needed to look like and made it work.  I'd really like to know what others think of the welt pockets.  I love the finished result, but really, there is a much better way!

Likes/Dislikes:
Ok, having complained about the way the welt pockets are constructed, I do love the final result!  I am a curvy girl and I don't need any extra fabric at my side seams, so hence my love for the welts. 
Length of the skirt is great!  I hemmed it only about an inch.  It was perfect for me.  I am 5'7" so if you are a great deal taller, I'd highly recommend measuring before cutting out. 
The fit is pretty darn good.  One thing I like a lot about the Palmer/Pletsch patterns is the 1" seam allowances to help with fit.  While I didn't need the extra in the hip area, it was sure helpful in the waistline!
Dislikes:
Other than the welt pocket construction, I'd have to say that I wasn't thrilled with the shaped waistband.  Next time I am tempted to play with the layout of the waistband and may even try cutting it on the bias.  This one lies great in front but the back portion of the waistband where it attaches to the zipper isn't as smooth as I'd like and sorry, but you can't see a picture of that! 

Alterations/Modifications:
I added a lining to the skirt since I used a quilting cotton.  I like how skirts hang when they are lined.

Recommendations?
Yes, I do recommend this pattern.  I love the styling.  Since I am happy with the fit of the skirt, I would like to try the pants at some point.  The problem will be finding the perfect fabric. 

Conclusion:
A nice pattern.  If you try this, I really want to know your thoughts on the welt pockets.  I wonder if there is something I am missing when it came to the construction details.  I do however like how they turned out.  

Thanks for reading!
Sue



 

Pattern Description:
This is a Very Easy Butterick Jacket I made last summer that I totally forgot to review!  I actually forgot about this little jacket in my closet until I made up the skirt I will review next.  The colors matched really well! 
Here is the description from the back of the envelope:
Loose-fitting, unlined jackets, A, B, C, D slightly below waist length has collar, front variations, single or double breasted front button closures and stitched hems.  B, D, elbow length sleeves. D, stitched pleats in sleeves.  The description is pretty accurate.   

Pattern Sizing:
This is a multi-sized pattern, I made a size 14 and am happy with the fit. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I think it does!  I made view C, in case you can't tell.  :) 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, great instructions.  Actually, a great pattern with some very RTW details! 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Loves:
The styling.  This jacket isn't the run of the mill jacket.  It has some distinct style.  This is perfect for either lightweight summer cotton or even a wonderful wool for winter. 
The back facing is rounded and then detailed on the finished garment with topstitching.  You can see the yoke from the jacket inside here:
The sleeves are lined and have this cute little loop and button detail.  I love the sleeves! 
I also love how the yoke pieces cover many of the inside seams.  Very professional looking and upscale RTW. 
Dislikes:
None!  I love every detail about this jacket. 

Fabric Used:
A super wonderful cotton from Heather Bailey.  Love her cotton prints!  And, who doesn't love polka-dots?  I did use an interfacing I regret ever laying eyes on.  It was shirt fuse or something like that from JoAnns.  Nasty stuff.  It bubbles on the fabric and I could just cry since I love this jacket and fabric so much.  I just press the crap out of it and it looks okay.  I now know better and only use Fashion Sewing Supply interfacing, truly the best stuff ever!  I have never been disappointed in its performance. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
None other than a 1/2" sway back adjustment. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
You bet!  I know this pattern isn't the latest and greatest, but it sure is cute and a classic--as far as I am concerned. 

Conclusion:
This is just a great little jacket.  I love wearing it!  It is perfect for spring and summer.  If you don't have this pattern yet, pick it up! 

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Vogue 8792 Striped top!

Pattern Description:  This is a Vogue options pattern.  It is rated as Easy and that is exactly how I would describe it.  This is the second time around with this pattern.  The first time, I made view B., this time view F. 
Here is the description from the back of the envelope:
Misses' top: Pullover top has neck band and seam detail.  A, B, C: Bias, loose-fitting front extends to upper back, back extends to upper front, no shoulder or side seams and stitched hem.  D, E, F: Close-fitting, bias lower front and lower back, raw edge finish and stitched hem on sleeves.  Front and back cut on crosswise grain of fabric. 

Pattern Sizing:
This is a multi-sized pattern. Based on using Vogue many times before, I made a size 14.  This is a nicely shaped top (for views D, E, F anyway) and I am happy with the fit.  I wanted something close-fitting, and that is exactly what I got. 




Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Pretty much.  I didn't have quite enough fabric for the sleeves so that is how I came up with the piecing on them.  Since you cut this on the crossgrain and since I cut for view F or the tunic length, I simply didn't have enough to make the bracelet-length sleeves so I pieced them. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
 Yes, very much so.  The order of construction was wonky.  I sewed the neckband much earlier than the last step as was suggested by the instructions.  Also, there was no mention of stabilizing the shoulder seam.  I did that with clear elastic.  Also, I stay-stitched the neckline before applying the neckband.  It just looked like there could be a possibility of things going awry, so I took steps to prevent mishaps. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Loves:
 1.  A shaped t pattern.  That doesn't happen often!  Also, this pattern is close fitting, just as the pattern suggests.  No alterations needed! 
2.  I love the length of the tunic.  It is just perfect for leggings.  I am so ready for fall with this pattern! 
3.  I really like the bracelet-length sleeves.  This is a nice change from long sleeves like most patterns.  I typically push my sleeves up anyway. 
 Dislikes:
1.  All the raw edges.  I tried to stitch the side panels on using raw edges, but my fabric rolled at the cut edge quite a bit and it just wasn't worth the struggle.  I went forth using right sides together, pressing, and topstitching using a double needle. 
2.  No stabilization at the shoulder seams.
3.  Neckline.  I lowered it by 3 inches and it is still in a modest place. 
4.  Darts in T-s.  But given the fit, it is necessary. 

 Fabric Used:

I poly/Lycra knit from Treadle Yard Goods in St Paul, MN.  The black was from my stash. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Other than lowering the neckline, none.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Maybe, it is pretty distinct.  I would use it for a pattern as a fitting guide, if that makes sense.  I am not totally sure about the vertical stripes.  I wish I would have made this fabric into something else.   

Conclusion:
Love the length, feel of the fabric, and the fact I can wear this with leggings.  Other than that, I don't absolutely love it.  I am sure I will wear it quite a bit as it is comfortable. 

Thanks for reading!
Sue

Pattern Description:
This is a Misses' vest pattern, Vogue 8777.  This is a Katherine Tilton pattern and is rated Easy by Vogue.  Here's the description from the back of the envelope:
Loose-fitting vest has fronts extending into collar and lower back (fronts cut on cross grain of fabric), and no side seams.  Wrong side of fabric may show.  A: Narrow hem.  B: Raw edge Finish.  Note: adjust to desired look.  Just an fyi: there is no mention of view C and how it differs from A and B.  What I noted on the pattern tissue pieces is that C appeared to be fuller in front than A and B.  Not sure if anyone else noticed any other differences, that is my take on it. 

Pattern Sizing:
This is a multi-sized pattern and since it is loose-fitting, it comes in XS to M in one envelope and L to XXL in another.  I made a medium and am pleased with the fit. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, mine does.  I only made slight modifications to the finishes. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Super easy instructions with great visuals.  Everything is logical and explained well.  No issues whatsoever! 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Loves:
1.  This goes together fast and it is sort of fun to put together.  There are only three pattern pieces and once in a while that is rather refreshing! 
2.  Notches, etc., are all well done and match up. 
3.  I love the length of the vest.  I made view B and I think the fullness of the front is exactly what I want: not too full but full enough. 
4.  Love the depth of the armholes.  I was a little concerned as the pattern photograph shows a rather high armscye and I detest those types of designs.  If I am going to wear this throughout the seasons, I want to put a variety of tops underneath it.  I think that even though I am wearing a cami, a long sleeved t-shirt will be fine as well as a short sleeved one. 
5. This has to do with the arms again, and I am not sure how to explain it, but the shoulder seam seems to scoop towards the neck a bit, I love that for layering as well. 
Dislikes:
1.  Interfacing to stabilize the neck seam.  I so much prefer to use clear elastic.  It looks nicer and will last a lot longer. 
2.  Raw edges.  I know it is common, but I just can't bring myself to leave edges raw very often.  I am trying to get over this but it is tough! 
 

Fabric Used:
I used a beautiful ponte knit from Treadle Yard Goods in Saint Paul, Minnesota.  Love this store.  I am so glad I don't live closer as I'd spend most, if not all, of my paycheck there on a weekly basis.  Dan-ger-ous! 
The pattern calls for lightweight jersey, lightweight double knit, cotton knit.  Given the fit of this vest, a stretch woven would be fine and I am thinking that a regular woven would work as well. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I went ahead and serged all my edges (mostly due to my fabric), turned them to the inside and stitched 1/4" from the edges.  It just seems to hang better this way.
Topstitched the two seams on the back.  They just lied better that way.  I believe this was due to my fabric and I could have left them alone, but there is just no way I am going to iron something every time I wear it if I don't have to and this seemed to fix that potential problem for me.  Plus, I think it makes the seams look crisper. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I highly recommend this to others and I am going to make this again.  It is a great layering piece. 

Conclusion:
I love this vest!  I've had this pattern for a long time and wonder why I waited so very long to stitch it up!  I can see this in a variety of fabrics and am toying with making one in lace.  How cute would that be?

Thanks for reading!
Sue :) 

Ottobre outfit!

How adorable, huh?  This is my latest creation for my soon to be born grandson.  This is my first attempt at an Ottobre pattern and it won't be my last!  So stylish for a little baby, especially a boy!  The magazine is full of adorable clothing for both girls and boys.  I am hooked! 

Here is the description from the magazine:
When the baby really starts moving around after taking his first steps, his clothes should be comfortable and allow for ease of movement.  Soft stretch knits serve the purpose best.  The baby t-shirt is detailed with a small applique on the front and poplin patches on the elbows.  There is also a small pocket on the sleeve. 
While the legs of the baby jeans are narrow, the hip and crotch area are roomy enough to fit over a diaper.  They have a short zipper fly on the front and a button on the waistband.  The back waist is elasticated. 

Pattern Sizing:
62 to 92 cm in length.  I cut the smallest size, a 62.  I held it up to a zero to three month RTW onesie and it is comparable in size.  What I forgot to do, which I will never forget again, is to check if I needed to add seam allowances.  Well, I did need to add them and didn't.  This outfit is super small.  I hope my little grandson gets to wear it at least once. 

Fabric used:
For the shirt, I used a poly/cotton/lycra super soft knit from my stash.  The patches are from 100% cotton from a local quilt shop and the purple is ribbing from my stash.  The embroidery on the front is one from my software.  The shirt is so little I resized it down about 30%.  Glad it looks okay. 
For the jeans, I used some heavier denim remnant from my stash.  The denim has some stretch to it.



Did it look like the drawing?
Yes, given a very few minor modifications I made. 

Here's what I liked/disliked about the pattern:
1.  Super cute styling.  When is the last time you had an actual zipper fly on a newborn's pair of jeans?  I love the patches on the elbows and the little tiny pocket. 
2.  Easy, logical construction steps that make this remarkably easy to sew. 
3.  Did I mention how cute the entire outfit is?
4.  Excellent written instructions.   
5.  I love how the pattern pieces are in different colors and clearly labeled.  If you have sewn with Burda sewing magazine you will know what I mean about pieces being somewhat difficult to trace with all the lines and the same color of ink to look at.  With these patterns, the different clothing items are marked and the directions tell you which page to look at and which color of pieces to trace.  Much easier for me to do! 
Dislikes:
1.  Very few visuals are included in the pattern directions.   The visuals that are included are excellent such as for the fly. 
2.  No reminder at the start of the directions to add the seam allowances--my fault entirely, but a reminder would be nice. 

Alterations/Modifications:
I just left the little flap on the pocket off.  If you could have seen how small the pieces were, you probably would have done the same thing.
I add that little bit of purple ribbing to the sleeves.  I like the additional pop of color. 
As I mentioned before, I added the embroidery but left off the applique. 
I decided the jeans needed rivets.  I had some and added them.  I found it much easier to use a leather punch to make a very small hole in the denim and insert the pointy part of the rivet through it before using the tool and hammer to pound it in. 

Recommendations? 
Yes...if you love sewing for children, these patterns seem well constructed and designed.  They are stylish and adorable.  I can't wait to try many more! 

Conclusion:
Waiting for the arrival of the model is torture.  I will have to spend my free time making more clothing for him! 

Thanks for reading!
Sue   

Vogue 8636 Colorblocked, stripey top!

Here is my latest version of Marcy Tilton's simple t-top.  I've made this one a few times before, but this time, I made some major changes. 
Here goes! 

Pattern Description:
Fitted, pullover tops, A, B, C, D with darted neckbands.  A: Contrast sleeve and neck band, lower edge of sleeve is raw-finished.  B, C: Three-quarter length sleeves, C: pleats over front neck darts, decorative buttons.  D: darts on outside of neck band and lower edge of sleeves. 
I made a modified version of view B. 
I love the raglan-style sleeves. 

Here is my inspiration photo that inspired me to use this fabric this way:

I wish I could tell you where this top is purchased, but there weren't any photo credits with it.  Sorry to whomever created this cute top! 


This top is one from Ann Taylor.  Also super cute. 

Pattern Sizing:
I've made this pattern a few times and this is the first time I've used this stretchy of a fabric.  I started with a 14 and added about 1/2" at the waistline and hips as I didn't want it too snug.  I wanted it to skim my body rather than be fitted as the pattern suggests. 

Fabric Used:
For my top, I combined two fabrics.  The floral stripe is a panel that was narrower than the standard 60 ish inches and only a little over 1/2 yard.  I matched the purple in the floral to the solid I used in the color-blocked sections.  I purchased both pieces at Treadle Yard Goods in Minneapolis.  The floral/stripe is super high quality and beautiful to work with.  The solid seemed a little higher grade than ordinary, but not something to get super excited about.  The sleeves were cut from additional stripes that ran above the floral section.  I cut that section off and used it for the sleeves. 

Does the finished garment look like the pattern envelope?
No, not really, and that was totally intentional. 

Modifications/alterations to the pattern:
Here goes!
1.  I cut the three pattern pieces used in this top (front, back, sleeves) into three sections using the armhole as a guide. 
2.  From these three pieces, I added seam allowances and cut the two pieces of fabric and sewed them into one piece that fit the pattern pieces. 
3.  I lowered the neckline about 3 inches.  It is pretty high. 
4.  I added narrow binding at the neckline, sleeves, and hem.  I was only going to do this at the neckline but with this fabric it didn't lay as nice as I wanted it to when I hemmed it, so binding was cut and applied. 
5.  As I mentioned earlier, I added about 1/2" total to the waistline and hip area.  I wanted this more skimming than fitted. 

Recommendations:
I really like this basic t-shirt pattern.  It is comfortable and you can be super creative with it!  It seems well drafted as everything lines up well. 

Conclusion:
I had a lot of fun creating this top.  DH said this brought a new level of creativity that he hasn't seen before, so that makes me want to try more color blocking!  If I try combining a stripe and floral again, I think I will have the stripe on the sleeve start about 1 inch higher than I have it here.

Thanks for reading!
Sue